Ok for REAL this time...

[Archangel]

Alright with my new expenses that will have to go into my car, I need to cut back. So I came up with a much more cost effective, yet attractive saber design. The electronics aren't gonna be nearly as ***y as the other one, but hey, it IS my first build afterall. I'm going strictly with LDM's noob tutorial on this one, except for the powder coating of course. So here goes:

- Screw on LED blade holder style 12
- Hilt style 4 with standard style switch hole
- MPS Pommel style 8
- LED "Corbin style" Show blade 1" OD
* Double Wrap
* Bullet Shaped
- Build Your Own Luxeon III Electronics Kit
* 4AAA battery holder
* Red
* Collimator Lens 5° viewing angle
* 2.2ohm 5w resistor
* Push on/push off switch with black button
* Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
- 8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw
- 2 Wire quick connector
- Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)
- Powder Coating (Solar Flat Black, B121...Red, SH43...Solar Flat Black, PM81)

http://i683.photobucket.com/albums/vv200/jimmyfoo/CustomSaber1Color.png

P.s. The color on the hilt is going to be RED. I'm not sure why it's coming up that color on the Builder.. it may just be my computer monitor. If so, disregard.

[Rafalema]

Looks good to me...

Few questions still remain:

1. What will you use to keep the insert in place? Might I suggest this? (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip--P72.aspx)

2. What will you use to secure the batteries inside the hilt? I really recommend this. (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V2-P314.aspx) (you can use it without the speaker, just glue the battery pack there and you've got yourself a good mount.)

3. I believe that you are aware that the 5 degree lenses won't fit to the lens holder, they need to be modified a bit.

4. Also, if you want the basic black switch to look a LOT better, then I recommend this. (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Switch-Bezel-Nut-P270.aspx)




Oh and its not about your monitor that it looks bronze, it's about the builder.


Good luck!

[Archangel]

Thanks, Rafalema! Lots of good tips, especially about the speaker mount! I'm definitely getting that now.

[Archangel]

Alright people, I'm making a change:
Instead of buying the Lux III Battery Kit, I'm going to buy all the components separately so that I can buy the 8.7 degree lens instead of having to buy the 5 degree lens the kit comes with. Don't worry they're both the same price, so I'm not having to pay any more. So here are the parts:

- 4AAA Battery Holder
- Luxeon Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle
- 2.2ohm 5w resistor
- Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
- Luxeon III Star
- Push on/push off switch with black button

[Skottsaber]

Don't use a 5 degree unless its a long blade or a 3/4"
Don't use an 8.7 degree unless you're using a rebel or LEDengin
Get a 10 degree ;)

[Arkhan]

either lens is fine.

When folks say "the 5 degree doesn't fit without modification", they really mean "the two little plastic tabs are slightly bigger than they should be, and it takes about 2 careful minutes with a file or x-acto knife to shave them down and then they fit fine".

oh, and be sure you do NOT use superglue if you glue the lens to the lens holder, etc. It will turn your super transparent lens into barely translucent.

[Sunrider]

I also recommend using the rebel with the 8.7 lens or the lux 3 with 10 degree. Remember the red rebel runs at 700ma & the lux 3 will be brighter but needs 1400ma.

[Crystal Chambers]

In translation to those who are like mah what? That means rebels won't drain your battery as fast as a lux. Correct?

Don't forget to use rechargeable batteries..lol.

[Sunrider]

Mah is different than ma. You must look at Wh or watt hour ratings when comparing batteries. Yes the Rebel will run longer. I recommend using Li-Ion 18650 batteries. Way more capacity than anything else, & lite too.

[Crystal Chambers]

So how long does it take to draw 700ma then?

To keep it noob friendly then a rebel won't drain your disposable batteries as fast as a lux3.

[Sunrider]

So how long does it take to draw 700ma then?

That depends on many variables. Because batteries are generally over rated (and the number of variables that can add up) I do actual timed run tests.

[Arkhan]

alkaline batteries are usually rated for their MaH at .2C

that is to say, at 20% of maximum output, how long will they last?

Alkaline batteries might have capacity of 1000mah, but they will NOT output that entire capacity in 1 hour (1000ma current)

Lithium disposables, NiMH rechargeables, and Lithium Rechargables are all capable of putting out much more current than Alkalines.

This is separate from how long the battery might last at that output level.

Energizer ultimate lithium AAA batteries only hold ~1000mah worth of electricity, but they will output it at 1500ma current. This would drain the battery dead in 40 minutes.

The rebel will draw less current, and as such, may fall into the maximum output of the regular old AAA alkalines. The LuxIII, while rated at 1400ma, can't remotely get that kind of current out of alkaline AAA battery.

So, not only would the luxIII suck the alkalines dry faster than the rebel, you don't even get the benefit of the improved brightness that the LUXIII holds over the rebel, unless your batteries are capable of outputting that much current.

Match batteries to the task. lightsabers fall into the "insane duty" category :)

[DarthMalak]

Okay maybe I sound really retarded... but I need help to finish my Lightsaber, I don't know what do i need to finish it so if you guyz can help me that'd be great...

so far i got:

Hilt style 4 with guarded style switch hole
Screw on LED blade holder style 13
MPS Pommel style 4
MHS choke style 3
Covertec Clip
DPDT Momentary green illuminated switch
Colored polyc tube
1-3/16" ID Black O-ring

[jin starkiller]

well you gonna need a pommel insert if you havent gotten one yet
you gonna also need the rest of your elecronics also ...recommend a p4 kit or you can get them seperate since you already have a switch

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Build-Your-Own-Seoul-P4-Electronics-Kit-P469.aspx

and you are going to need a blade tip for your blade and diffuser material ...some clear giftwrap works great put about 4 feet of it in the blade


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Shouldered-1-thick-walled-blade-tip-with-reflective-disc--P139.aspx

and a mps clip to hold the pommel insert in place in the pommel

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip--P72.aspx

other then these you seem to have all the basics

[Archangel]

Okay maybe I sound really retarded... but I need help to finish my Lightsaber, I don't know what do i need to finish it so if you guyz can help me that'd be great...


Haha why are you posting this is MY thread? I don't mind, it's just a little odd...

[Skottsaber]

Please start another thread in future instead of hijacking somebody else's.
And you're not retarded, everyone has a first time ;)

Jin pretty much said it all, just one thing, I don't know what you plan to do, but the colored Poly C tubing is not a widely used blade.