View Full Version : Switch Wiring Diagram for MR board with 4 wire switch

Rhyen Skytracker
07-16-2010, 04:13 PM
Here is a wiring diagram for the MR boards with the 4 wire switch like the Mace Windu board. You can use any latching SPDT or DPDT switch. In the diagram I used the DPDT illuminated switch as an example. You could use the other side of the switch too, but make sure you don't mix the connections. Example: Use C1, NO1 and NC1 or C2, NO2 and NC2 but don't mix the two.


07-16-2010, 10:16 PM
Cool thanks for posting this!

07-17-2010, 12:51 AM
Here is a wiring diagram for the MR boards with the 4 wire switch like the Mace Windu board. You can use any latching SPDT or DPDT switch. In the diagram I used the DPDT illuminated switch as an example. You could use the other side of the switch too, but make sure you don't mix the connections. Example: Use C1, NO1 and NC1 or C2, NO2 and NC2 but don't mix the two.

There's a typo in your original post. ;)

Rhyen Skytracker
07-17-2010, 02:12 PM
Typo? What typo? hehe Thanks J-Lo. That could have made it very confusing.

12-09-2010, 07:57 PM
Hey, new to the saber scene currently working on my first saber. All of this information has been great, but i seem to have hit a small snag. I used this diagram to wire up my DPDT Momentary switch. Currently when i hold it down it works perfectly but when i let go of the switch the saber doesn't stay on. I am guessing i havn't wired a common? It isn't opening / closing right? Do i have to strap NC2/C2? I am using a MR Mace windu board. Everything works fine as i have said, just won't stay "on" unless i hold down the switch button. Again thx so much for the wiring diagrams, has taken me well over a week of reading/studying before i wanted to start throwing questions out. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Also. My switch won't illuminate, so i am guessing i need to connect the LED terminals on the switch to my existing leads from the LED? Correct? Also will i need to throw a 2.2 ohm resistor on the pos? I was reading it doesn't mater if it's on the neg or pos, just wanted to be sure that it is 'required' before i run it to the LED, don't want to fry anything.


12-09-2010, 08:06 PM
Someone can correct me if I am wrong, But I believe the MR boards need a "Latching" Switch not a Momentary "Switch", hence why you have to hold the switch down.


12-09-2010, 09:04 PM
yes you need a latching switch, not a momentary. if you bought a latching, try pushing it down just a bit further - they can act like a momentary if you only press them in to the first click.

as for the LED in the switch, yes you need to wire it in as well - a 2.2 ohm resistor will fry it though. use the resistor calculator in the store selecting the color switch you have and your chosen power supply - it should be something like 18, 82, 220, etc... you're right on that it doesn't matter which side of the LED it's on.

or, if you post your color and battery voltage we'll tell you what resistor you need.

12-09-2010, 09:21 PM
I have a buckpuck 1000MA that i can use. Can i convert the momentary to a latching using this? I found some momentary to latching modules on youtube. Not to sure exactly how i would have to wire it.

Using a Pseol P4 green, 4AA 6 volt batt pack, and unfortunately all i have is momentary switches currently. Didn't realize that i need a latching for MR boards. Only way to learn is by making mistakes i suppose. Which is something i tend to do very well ;)

Thank you very much for the quick replies. Also if there are any diagrams i can refer to on how to wire a puck from my switch to my LED or if i can convert my momentary to a latching using a puck. If that is possible...

This video shows a momentary converted to a latching using some sort of module?


12-09-2010, 09:40 PM
you'll need a pololu board to convert the mom switch to latching. that video is of a guy that built his own board that does the same thing, but in a much larger case.

a buckpuck will just supply whatever you hook it to with 1000mA as long as it has power. it will fry your switch LED, and will NOT covert your switch from mom to latching. you would use that in place of a resistor for the main LED, which for you is a green P4. if you have your LED wired to the LED output of the MR board, you don't need this as that will put out 1000-1200mA constant. that and i'm not sure how it will interact with the MR board... more than likely something will get very hot and try to melt... what wiring diagram are you using for your main electronics btw?

what color is the LED in your switch? i'll need to know that to calculate what resistor you'll need for it. if it's green, like your main LED, then you'll need a 150 ohm resistor.

don't worry about making mistakes, that's how you learn. good judgement comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgement. ^_^

12-09-2010, 10:07 PM
to be honest i never did find an actual Mace windu soundboard diagram, so i have had to refer to multiple ones and kind of mix and match to find what works. I am going to draw up what i have now. To be honest i think i should just bite the bullet and go with the latching and proper resistor.. Instead of trying to mess around with the pololu board etc.

i currently have in mind for my sabers; Pseol p4 green with green DPDT switch. and Pseol p4 blue with blue DPDT switch. seems only the "dot" dpdt latching switches are in stock, so i suppose i will place an order for those. and 150 ohm? will that work for both? i guess i should just not be such a newb and look at the chart ;)

12-09-2010, 10:13 PM

Tim's diagram was very close to what the windu board looked like. and i mixed that with the wiring diagram here for the switch.

12-09-2010, 10:20 PM
i hear that the mace board is almost identical to the luke board so the wiring should be the same, though i haven't seen it.

the blue switch LED has the same Vf as the green so it'll need the same resistor. the red one is different though. the dot switches are a lot less difused than the circle ones - i prefer the circles over the dots, but Tim hasn't gotten any more in stock lately.

also, it's spelled Seoul...

12-09-2010, 10:26 PM
yeah i just realized not to sure why i put that p in there. Anyways, thx so much, and yes i prefer the circle over the dot as well. And yes the wiring is almost identical. Placed in a some what different manner, and the switch wiring is different. Just so i am clear, it was 150 ohm 1/4 watt, correct? and what would be needed for the circle DPDT's in place of the dot ones?

You have been a huge help. has given me a lot of clarity yet some frustration at the same time. Horribly addicted to this hobby already.

cheers mate.

12-09-2010, 10:41 PM
yep that's all right - 150 ohm 1/4 watt. all of the blue and green illuminated switches use them with a 6V power supply. the red would take a 220 ohm 1/4 watt resistor. congrats on your new addiction! ^_^

cheers love! ^_^

12-09-2010, 10:59 PM
Yar, well just placed my 4th order. Good grief, have enough to make approximately 4-5 sabers now. With any luck i will have a couple done in the new year. A lot of room for upgrading with Accent LED's and possibly more complex boards in the near future. Thx again, i'm going to go hang my head in shame while i wait for my next credit card bill.

Truely was a pleasure to have met you.


12-10-2010, 01:39 AM
it's always good to have extra parts. if you have any more troubles, please don't hesitate to come back and chat with us. ^_^

Jay-gon Jinn
12-12-2010, 11:15 AM
just to add to this, you don't have to use a pololu pcb to convert a momentary switch to latching action for use with an MR/Hasbro FX sound board:
I recently did it myself on a saber posted at FX-sabers, and that topic has some nice pics posted from member Caine in it, too.

Rhyen Skytracker
01-19-2011, 09:37 PM
Also, the pololu board will not work with the 4 wire switch set up since it uses a NO and a NC contact.