Kill Plug Dimensions

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Was wondering if anyone had some dimensions on the Recharge Port in the store. I am looking for two specifically.

1. Measurement of the lip to the bottom of the center part... (see lines in the photo below)
2. the length of the prongs from the bottom of the center part to the edge of the prongs (once again see below, imagine you clipped them all the way down.. . how much would you be cutting off?)

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x116/TaiDashan/Saber%20Hilts/Random/Port.jpg

Hope this is clear, a full spec sheet with dimensions would be helpful too ;)

[Crystal Chambers]

You mean recharge port. Another thing to note when accounting for space for your port is the wires themselves since in my experience they take up another 1/4 to 1/2". You don't want to be bending and jamming your solder connections against anything too much and risk damaging the connection. Buying extra of these come in handy.

Sorry I don't have any uninstalled at hand at the moment but thought I should mention that.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

You are absolutely correct, i DID mean recharge port. I had been looking at alternate kill plugs right before posting :oops:

That is part of why i want to know measurements. I want to make sure everything will fit. I think It will be fine as is, but just would like to make sure i give myself the best options. :grin: :cool:

*edit* I edited the thread title, thanks CC!

[FenderBender]

From tip of threads to lip: .237

From lip to bottom of body: .385

Prong length: .233

Also take into account that the lip of the port wont sit flush to the inside of a curved hilt section. There will be a SLIGHT gap.

[Darth Xusia]

1. .406
2. .210

That is the one that I pulled out and measured.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

You rock, thank you! Quick clarification... when you say:


Prong length: .233

do you mean from where the top of the prong meets the body? Or the bottom of the body to the end of the prong?

[Darth Xusia]

Hmmm... I measured a different one and got the same numbers Fender did.
The first one must have been a cheapy RS one. I thought I threw all of those away.
Thanks Shadar for making me pull that junk out of my parts bin. :D

[FenderBender]

I measured from the bottom of the body to the end of the prongs for that one.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

I appreciate all of your help guys, hopefully this build happens sooner than In A Galaxy Far Far Away :p

*edit* The good news is that a recharge port using MSPI6, (clipping the tabs and leaving it at .4"), and a speaker (.25") will both fit in an MPS4, the bad news is that this setup leaves .1" (or roughly 1.5/16 of an inch in length) for wiring :p This ought to be fun :roll:

[Jedi-Loreen]

Most people would say 3/32", instead of 1.5/16". ;)

[FenderBender]

I appreciate all of your help guys, hopefully this build happens sooner than In A Galaxy Far Far Away :p

*edit* The good news is that a recharge port using MSPI6, (clipping the tabs and leaving it at .4"), and a speaker (.25") will both fit in an MPS4, the bad news is that this setup leaves .1" (or roughly 1.5/16 of an inch in length) for wiring :p This ought to be fun :roll:

That's easy:D

Actually when I do the charge ports in the pommel I sneak the wires past the speaker, then bend the prongs out from the port. Then I counter twist the wires and screw in the pommel. This way when it un-twists the bent out prongs will hold the wires away from the speaker so it doesn't buzz.

[Crystal Chambers]

Bending the prongs on the port is a great idea although I prefer to leave the pommel insert a little loose so the pommel will turn on it's own and the wires won't twist at all. I've had to replace a few ports already from twisting wires even when I counter twist them first.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Bending the prongs on the port is a great idea although I prefer to leave the pommel insert a little loose so the pommel will turn on it's own and the wires won't twist at all. I've had to replace a few ports already from twisting wires even when I counter twist them first.

That was my thought. I love the idea, but this pommel will (due to design) have all the internals including the insert and port pressed snug between the two pommel ends. Should work beautifully without needing to secure the MPSI OR twist wires ;) but then again FB, you had no way of knowing that. Thanks for the suggestion!