Commonly used Drill bits, taps, and measurements

[cardcollector]

Hey all,

I decided that since I was compiling a list of common measurements I used, I thought it would make a great thread to have various drill bit used for switches, taps, etc...

So here is what I have so far. If you would like a measurement, post it up.

Drill bits, taps, and screws
For the Basic Switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pu...tton--P40.aspx)
- Use a 3/8” bit for hole
- Or use a 1/2” bit for countersink

For the Lighted 16mm anti-Vandal Switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DPDT-Momentary-green-illuminated-switch-P411.aspx)
-To tap and thread; 15mm bit w/ M16-1 tap
-Use a 23/32 endmill to countersink the AV switch. Drill a 5/8" hole first.

For the Gaurded Switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-Guarded-switch-with-red-button-P257.aspx)
- If you want to use the retaining nut; 1/2" bit
- For a force fit; 7/16” bit. 11.5mm bits work well also.

For the Small Momentary Switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Red-momentary-switch-P559.aspx)
- To tap and thread; M5x0.5 tap with a 4.5mm bit

2.1mm Recharge Port (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21mm-Power-Jack-P37.aspx)
- To tap and thread; 5/16-32 tap (M8x.75 metric tap) & 9/32” dill bit

For the 5mm LED bezel (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Red-LED-indicator--P114.aspx)
- To tap and thread; M8x0.75 metric tap & 7.25mm Drill bit. 5/16-32 tap is not compatible with the Bezel

For the T1 LED Indicators (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Green-LED-indicator--P495.aspx)
-To tap and thread; M6 x0.75 metric tap & 5.25mm Drill bit

For R.I.C.E. Port Style #1 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/35mm-RICE-Port-Style-1-P658.aspx)
-To tap and thread; M6x0.5 metric tap & 5.5mm bit

For R.I.C.E. Port Style #1 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/35mm-RICE-Port-Style-2-P659.aspx)
-To tap and thread; M8x0.75 metric tap & 7.25mm Drill bit. 5/16-32 tap is not compatible.

Silver Tactile switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-tactile-switch-P641.aspx)
-To snugly mount, use a 13/64" bit.




For 4-40 screws
- 4-40 tap with a 3/32" bit OR #43 drill bit

For 6-32 screws
- 6-32 tap with a 7/64" bit OR #36 drill bit

For 8-32 screws
- 8-32 tap and 9/64" bit OR #29 drill bit

For 10-32 screws
- 10-32 tap and 5/32" bit OR # 21 drill bit

Allen wrench Sizes
Hex size for socket head cap screws:
#2 - 5/64"
#4 - 3/32"
#6 - 7/64"
#8 - 9/64"
#10 - 5/32"
#12 - 5/32"

Hex size for button head cap screws:
#2 - .05"
#4 - 1/16"
#6 - 5/64"
#8 - 3/32"
#10 - 1/8"
#12 - 5/32"

Hex size for set screws:
#2 - .035"
#4 - 05"
#6 - 1/16"
#8 - 5/64"
#10 - 3/32"

Use as a guideline only.


Here are some measurements...

1.5” 22 gauge sinktube
-OD- 1.5”
-ID- 1.45”

1.25” 22 gauge sinktube
-OD- 1.25”
-ID- 1.20”

MHS Main body/double female connector/MHS to 1.5" adapter
- OD- 1.45"
- ID- 1.25"

Useful charts for taps and drill bits

Metric http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing/metric-iso-tap-drill-chart.htm

ANSI http://www.engineersedge.com/tap_drill_chart.htm


I know this is by no means complete, so feel free to add to the list!

[Crystal Chambers]

Good idea. I would love to be more helpful but I don't have access to any saber stuff during the weekdays.

Can't forget our good friends in the blade retention/screw department.
8-32 tap, 9/64 bit

MHS mainbody/double female connector/ MHS to 1.5 sinktube adapter
1.45" OD
1.25" ID
(not sure how accurate this is but it's a must)


The other common screw sizes would be a nice addition too.
4-40, 6-32, 10-32

Accent LED holders would be the last common thing I can think of.

[Nineteen]

Another useful note would be which allen wrenches go with what screws. I know I often forget, and need to ask someone.

[cardcollector]

Added crystal.:cool:

Keep them coming!

[Shadar Al'Niende]

*votes for sticky* :D :cool:

[acerocket]

For 6-32 tap. drill size should be #36.

Hex size for socket head cap screws:
#2 - 5/64"
#4 - 3/32"
#6 - 7/64"
#8 - 9/64"
#10 - 5/32"
#12 - 5/32"

Hex size for button head cap screws:
#2 - .05"
#4 - 1/16"
#6 - 5/64"
#8 - 3/32"
#10 - 1/8"
#12 - 5/32"

Hex size for set screws:
#2 - .035"
#4 - 05"
#6 - 1/16"
#8 - 5/64"
#10 - 3/32"

These hex key sizes were pulled from a screw catalog I have and I have not taken the time to physically verify every one is correct. Use as a guideline only.


The 'correct' tap size for the recharge port is M8x.75 This is a metric tap. and it's Imperial equivalant is .315 - 33.87 - so it is very close to a 5/16 - 32.

On the 5mm LED bezels, I know the tap size for the cone shaped bezel is also M8x.75. I have not had the opportunity to purchase a low profile domed bezel yet to verify it's thread but I suspect it is also M8x.75.

Interestingly, the nuts that come on the 5mm cone type LED bezel and the 2.1mm recharge ports are interchangeable. However the LED bezel will not screw into a 5/16-32 threaded hole but the recharge port will. It probably has to do with the way they are manufactured and how loose the tolerances are.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Here is the sizes needed for the T1 LED indicators http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Green-LED-indicator--P495.aspx

Tap M6 x .75 metric
Drill bit 5.25 mm

Also, the drill bit needed for the M8 x .75 that acerocket mentioned above is a 7.25mm bit.

[FenderBender]

Also, the force fit on the guarded switches work better with a 11.5mm bit/end mill

To counter sink an anti-vandal 23/32 end mill with 5/8 hole.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Here are some drill and tap charts that I use:

Metric http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing/metric-iso-tap-drill-chart.htm

ANSI http://www.engineersedge.com/tap_drill_chart.htm

This is turning out to be a very helpful thread and I think it should be a sticky thread.

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

This is an awesome and USEFUL thread to have this all in one place.

*seconds the suggestion for a 'sticky' on this*

[Lord Maul]

Stickied...Index'd..the works.

Great thread idea!

[cardcollector]

Thanks LM.:cool:

I didn't expect so many measurements to be added.
Because of this, I am going to leave the first post the way it is and let you guys leave the information in your posts...:wink:

[Shadar Al'Niende]

I would suggest editing it into the first posts so that its all together, that way people don't have to sift through to find it once the thread gets longer, this IS a sticky after all ;)

Just my $.02

[Lord Maul]

I would suggest editing it into the first posts so that its all together, that way people don't have to sift through to find it once the thread gets longer, this IS a sticky after all ;)

Just my $.02

QFT. It all has to be compiled now. You or I can do it, cc. Just let me know ;)

[cardcollector]

I'll get right on that!


EDIT: All fixed. :cool:

[FenderBender]

Its 11.5mm on the force fit for Guarded switches. Don't forget the 23/32 endmill for countersinking the anti vandal

[Marco]

Hey I have a quick question, since I live in germany and we measure in cm mm m km and so on I wanted to ask you what 5/64" 3/32" 7/64" 9/64" etc... stands for? Is it inches or feet or what? And how do I have to convert it to mm cm? What exactly is the: " ? Thanks in advance. :D

[Jedi-Loreen]

The " stands for inches. A ' stands for feet.

A foot is divided up into 12 inches. But an inch can be divided in many ways. 2 times, 4 times, 8, 16, 32 and 64 times are the most common.

[Crystal Chambers]

http://www.sciencemadesimple.com/length_conversion.php

[Marco]

hm so 10-32 x 13/32" for example is 7.93 mm (or 0.79 cm) x 10.31 mm (1.03 cm) e.g?

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/10-32-x-1332-Thumb-Screw--P180.aspx

??? It is 10/32 inches wide and 13/32 inches long right?

1 inch is 2.54 cm ...

[Shadar Al'Niende]

10-32 refers to the thread pitch and diameter in mm of the hole. The fraction refers to the drill bit, so 10 threads and 32 mm wide on the hole IIRC.

[Ari-Jaq Xulden]

I think you have that backwards Shadar. The first number refers to the size , the second to the thread pitch. a 10/32 is a number 10 screw with 32 threads per inch. Also that has nothing to do with the drill bit size. For a 10/32 screw you use a 5/32 or number 21 sized bit. These numbers are for US only they are called SAE. This stands for Society of Automotive Engineers who created the sizing in the early 1900's. This can be confusing when also dealing with metric sizes.

[Marco]

Ok... But how am I suppose to find the right drill head to drill in the hole in my anakin fx saber that I want to convert? :D I guess I have to test a few that fit inside the hole of the kit right?

[Arkhan]

10-32 does not mean 10/32 inches

It is the #number of the screw and the thread count per inch.

The pilot hole used prior to tapping a 10-32 screw is a #21 drill bit

If you look up drill bit sizes online, you should be able to find the nearest metric equivalent drill bit. You can search for TAP sizes in SAE and find which drill bit to use for the pilot hole. Then compare SAE drill bit sizes or #s for your closest metric equivalent drill bit.

If your metric is too much smaller, you will have difficult time tapping due to overly tight pilot hole. If your metric is too much bigger, you will either get partial depth threads, or no threads at all.

the 13/32" measurement does indeed mean 13/32nds of an inch. Your conversion is then of course 25.4mm per inch

And yes, the numbering schemes are complicated, confusing and generally antiquated. In many cases, they are carry overs from a hundred years ago or more. However, in the US, unless you went to college to be a scientist/engineer, you don't use metric very much (lightbulbs, strangely, are an exception. Nobody ever runs to the store to purchase a 1/10th Horsepower lightbulb)

water pipe and copper tubing have "nominal" sizes which are NOT their actual size, but rather indicate what size they would be compatible with if you tried to match them up with old cast-iron pipe, for example.

[Ari-Jaq Xulden]

Ok... But how am I suppose to find the right drill head to drill in the hole in my anakin fx saber that I want to convert? :D I guess I have to test a few that fit inside the hole of the kit right?
There really is no conversion. That's why both still exist over 100 years later. A 5/32 drill bit for example is about 3.8mm. if you used a 4m it would be to big, and a 3m is to small.I would order the right SAE size bits and taps online.

[acerocket]

A little history/info.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unified_Thread_Standard

They are one of the first places I have seen that actually gives the formula for how the number screws get their size. I knew it from college, but have never seen it on the web before.

[Marco]

I found this chart online --> http://bobmay.astronomy.net/misc/drillchart.htm I don´t really know if it is usable for my purposes... :confused:

But it says for example: 5/32" are 3.9688mm so lets say if I find a 3.5 - 3.9 mm drill head in my local hardware store it should be usable to tap the hole right?

Edit: Or somehow I could use this one here --> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_and_tap_size_chart
Hm I just ordered a Anakin con. kit hopefully I will be able to tap the hole for the blade retention screw ... :/

Double Edit: "Now take the Anakin tube, that is totally empty. Drill out the hole for the blade retention screw with an 11/64" drill bit. After doing this, the thumbscrew should slide easily into the hole."
if I look up 11/64" in the wikipedia chart it says that 11/64" are 4.3656 mm or 0.17188 inches... So I just have to find a drill bit with a diameter that is within the range 4.0 - 4.3 mm right? I am so confused xD
(Cuz I dont think the service of the store will know what a #20 Pilot is...)

[acerocket]

Marco, you still sound really confused on this. Bear with me and I will try to explain a little.

A typical 'American' screw is given with a number, a thread pitch and a length. For example, 10-32 x 13/32 screw as you posted. You have incorrectly type it as 10/32. This mistake is an important one. The dash (-) tells you that it is not a dimension but the screw callout. 10 is the numner size of the screw. In America, screws under 1/4" are given a nmber to identify their thread diameter. In this case, it is a number 10 which means the screw thread (major) diameter is .190 inches (or 4.826mm). The second part of the name after the - is 32. This is the thread pitch (number of complete threads in a 1 inch long screw). It has nothing to do with the actal length of the screw, just tells you how coarse or fine the threads are. For 32 threads per inch (tpi), that means there is .03125 inches between the 'peak' of each thread on the screw (or .798mm). The final piece of information is the length of the screw - usually expressed as a fractional number. 13/32 inches in this case. To get the decimal length, simply divide 13 by 32 which equals .40625 inches (or 10.319mm). In looking at the charts you posted, for a 10-32 screw, you need to use a #21 drill bit. This bit is .159 inches in diameter (or 4.0386mm). If you notice, .159 inches is less than the .190 inches of the screw diameter. You want the hole drilled to be smaller than the screw so you can tap it correctly.

In your case, if you want to drill and tap for a 10-32 screw, you need a 4mm drill as it will be the closest to a #21. I don't know how much all this will help you as I don't know if you will be able to get an Imperial tap in your country. If you want to go all metric, I would get a M5x.8mm screw by 10mm long and the correct M5x.8mm tap and 4.2mm drill bit to tap the hole for it.

If you are still confused, please PM me and I will try to help you out a little more.

[Marco]

Thanks alot for your effort, I really do appreciate it!!! But I am still a bit confused... I thought it would be as easy as I wrote, but is my conclusion wrong? About the:
"Now take the Anakin tube, that is totally empty. Drill out the hole for the blade retention screw with an 11/64" drill bit. After doing this, the thumbscrew should slide easily into the hole."

if I look up 11/64" in the wikipedia chart it says that 11/64" are 4.3656 mm or 0.17188 inches... So I just have to find a drill bit with a diameter that is within the range 4.0 - 4.3 mm right? I am so confused xD
(Cuz I dont think the service of the store will know what a #20 Pilot is...)

:confused:

[acerocket]

I am not familiar with the conversion kits as I have never done a conversion. Perhaps they are telling you to drill out the old threads in the empty hilt to allow the blade screw to pass through the empty tube without needing to be threaded. That way it will thread into the conversion adapter. If that is the case, then I would just look for a 4.5mm drill for that.

[Lord Maul]

You're right, Erik.

That part of the tutorial is telling you to drill through ONLY the hilt, NOT the conversion kit. Since the kit is threaded, the screw can pass through the hilt with no harm done.

[Marco]

yeah I understood that ... :) But I have to find the right size drill head I guess I just test it with the smallest and work my way up to the perfect one that fits... ^^

[Ari-Jaq Xulden]

Hey CC could you post the thread size for the other momentary switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Black-momentary-switch-P558.aspx) in the store?

[cardcollector]

hmmm, I dont have one of those yet, and don't know the manufacturer.

Mr. Tim will have to enlighten us...:D

[Lord Maul]

The threads on that switch are
M5x.5

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Also keep in mind that SAE threads and metric threads will not convert to the same dimension. In other words, if you want to drill and tap a hole for an 8-32 screw you will not find a metric tap that will match up directly to the 8-32 and SAE will not directly match up to metric. They are completely different sizes. Even though in the US we use SAE, when we have a part that requires a metric thread like a 16 mm AV switch, to drill and tap the hole the correct size we HAVE to use a 15 mm drill bit and a 16mm x 1 tap. We can't use anything SAE to match up with it. You can purchase any drill bit or tap online wheather metric or SAE. I suggest always using the correct size bits and taps or you will risk stripping threads or cross threading.

[(null).exe]

Unless someone else is doing a protosaber, this probably won't be very useful, BUT:

Pommels designed for inserts (Style 1-11) can be threaded to accept 3/4" pipe fitting, which can then be used to attach a length of braided steel washing machine hose

[TD-2272]

Ok the mom switch is - M5x.5 threading the only tap I can find is a M5x.8. Will this be ok

[cardcollector]

Ok the mom switch is - M5x.5 threading the only tap I can find is a M5x.8. Will this be ok

No, I will pm you witha link to buy the right tap when I get home tonight.

[TD-2272]

No, I will pm you witha link to buy the right tap when I get home tonight.

Thankyou Sir ;)

[Takanis]

How about some thread dimensions for the graflex pins?

[Darth Mortis]

Question about the guarded switch...

If the size of the drill bit needed will place the threaded part of the switch through the body of the hilt, then what would the countersink be? (maybe im using wrong terminology...) meaning, what size will be needed to have the top of the switch sink into the hilt a little to have the same look as the pictures...or are the switches already rounded on the bottom?

[Ronan]

Since i just got myself a nice drill press, those measurements were very helpful.

Thanks! :)

[cardcollector]

How about some thread dimensions for the graflex pins?

I am not sure. I would guess 4-40, but am pretty sure they aren't.

Someone else care to add?

[cannibal869]

Anyone know what the drill and tap for the RICE port should be? (Style 1 specifically)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/rp1a.jpg

Greg wrote this in the comments on the shop page
Just be careful with the threads dimensions. M6 threading usually means that diameter is 6mm and threads are spaced by 1mm. Here the threads are smaller (0.5mm), so if you don't want to fix it with the washer outside the hilt, you need a special tap, not easy to find.

I couldn't easily find any more info (apologies if it's been posted already somewhere)

Thanks,
-C

EDIT: it seems it's now listed on the product page - M6 x 0.5

[cardcollector]

Updated and cleaned up the first page.

Still looking for graflex pin dimensions...

[acerocket]

Graflex pins (at least all the Parks replicas I have worked with) are 3-48 thread and you need a 1/8" 6 point hex socket to remove/install them

[ARKM]

I can attest to that (in regards to the TCSS Graflex pins).

[DarkarNights]

On the first page you have RICE port style 1 named twice instead of style 2.

[Vangelis2019]

Can anyone tell me the Diameters of the standard MHS Male and Female thread?

I'm trying to design my next Saber in Autodesk Inventor and I can't get my male and female thread to match.

Thanks. :)

[Zahc Zi Phan]

I was going to vote for sticky too, until it got stickied, very informative CC!!!

[Zahc Zi Phan]

I believe aerorocket is right about the graflex pins. The same question was asked here as well: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?7296-Whats-the-thread-size-on-the-Graflex-electrical-pins

As for the tool to install them, I found that a small piece of aluminum spacer (chassis disk spacer) works GREAT! Just stick the head of the pin in the little spacer tube, and use it to screw the badboy in, applying a moderate amount of pressure downwards. The aluminum is just soft enough to grip the hex heads well and screw them down snugly. Found that one out when my clumsy fingers had dropped the damn graflex pin while trying to finger tighten for the ninth time. Those things are TEENY!

[Takanis]

Acerocket is correct (shocker? :p ) The G-Pins are indeed 3-48. I didn't have a small enough socket to use so I just used some fine-tip needle nose pliers to tighten mine down.

To drill and tap, you will need a #47 bit (.0785") and a 3-48 tap. ;)

[patolcott]

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y535/patolcott/Kyp%20Durron%20Lightsaber/LedHolder.jpg

Anyone know the tap size to this?

[patolcott]

Bump :)

[Silver Serpent]

Looks like the 5mm LED bezel from the store.

If it's that one, then it's listed on the first page:

For the 5mm LED bezel (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Red-LED-indicator--P114.aspx)
- To tap and thread; M8x0.75 metric tap & 7.25mm Drill bit. 5/16-32 tap is not compatible with the Bezel

If it's something else, I don't know how to get you the thread information from just a picture.

[patolcott]

I am not sure if it is the one from the store, since i got it at radio shack but i will try that tap size see if it works thanks silver serpent

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I am not sure if it is the one from the store, since i got it at radio shack but i will try that tap size see if it works thanks silver serpentI happen to have both the led bezel from Radio shack and the ones from the store, and the nuts are interchangeable, so i'd assume the threads size and pitch is identical, or close enough that they should both thread into the same size threads.

[patolcott]

AWESOME! thank you very much Sir. That is good to know, cannot wait to get it set in my saber.

[jhlim]

Sorry, but what does countersink mean?

[Silver Serpent]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countersink

[jhlim]

Is the countersink necessary for the standard style switch, and if so, do you need to use the 3/8" bit and the 1/2"countersink bit or just the countersink?

and... can the 1.5" sink tube fit over MHS parts(including ribbed extension)?

[Silver Serpent]

Necessary? No, but it does look better if you use one. You'll need both bits. Or you can request Tim drill the hole for you. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Services-C50.aspx for all your hole drilling needs :)

Yes, the MHS parts were specifically designed so that 1.5" sink tube would fit over them.

[jhlim]

Thanks alot! :)

[Kyaryo Ysoyav]

For the Lighted 16mm anti-Vandal Switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DPDT-Momentary-green-illuminated-switch-P411.aspx)
-To tap and thread; 15mm bit w/ M16-1 tap
-Use a 23/32 endmill to countersink the AV switch. Drill a 5/8" hole first.

I just wanted to clarify this before I got out and plop down $30 on one. It's a 16mm x 1 tap, right? Or is it the 15mm x 1 tap? The corresponding drill bit would then be 15mm?

Also, both US and Metric measurements are given for the 2.1mm recharge port. It is exactly the same thing, right?

Thanks!

[Silver Serpent]

15mm drill bit for the AV switch hole. M16-1 tap for threading the hole. While the bit is a standard enough size, the taps tend to be a special order item. I've never seen one at my local hardware store.

[Kyaryo Ysoyav]

Thanks, SS! Is there any difference between left and right handed taps? Which one is used for TCSS stuff?

[Silver Serpent]

Right-handed threading is standard for most things, to include the screws and switches sold here.

[Kyaryo Ysoyav]

Thanks again!

[Silver Serpent]

The threading for MHS parts are not mentioned anywhere on the forums. They're Tim's trade secret.

If you have access to a knowledgeable machinist, they can measure the threads on your MHS parts and duplicate them. It's not usually an issue if you're only doing it for your own personal saber. You'll get a rather unpleasant reaction from the community if you start duplicating MHS compatible parts for profit (without permission from TCSS)

[Silver Serpent]

We're going to need to add the bit and tap for the new 12mm AV switches in the store. Not sure what the specs are on it yet.

[ilpostino]

What is the difference between Metric Taper and Plug Tap?

[Silver Serpent]

Plug Tap: A type of hand tap that has 3 to 5 tapered threads and is often used second in the sequence of hand taps used to tap blind holes. Plug taps can be used in place of taper taps.

Blind Hole: A hole that does not pass through a component and has only one opening.

Metric is just a system of measurement, as opposed to US Standard.

http://www.toolingu.com/definition-150210-132068-plug-tap.html

[darth_chasm]

Hi All,

I'm trying to come up with switch cap ideas for Switch17 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-tactile-switch-P285.aspx) but have been unable to find anything as far as measurements for the switch in my searches. Sorry to ask, especially if I've missed it, but any help is appreciated.

I'm specifically interested in actuator height and diameter and the suggested hole size for mounting.

Thanks in advance.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Hi All,

I'm trying to come up with switch cap ideas for Switch17 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-tactile-switch-P285.aspx) but have been unable to find anything as far as measurements for the switch in my searches. Sorry to ask, especially if I've missed it, but any help is appreciated.

I'm specifically interested in actuator height and diameter and the suggested hole size for mounting.

Thanks in advance.

Those fit in a 1/8" hole. I don't remember how tall the brown actuator is offhand, though they can be sanded down somewhat.

[darth_chasm]

Thanks FJK for the quick response. Knowing even just the hole size helps a lot.

I was thinking maybe the eraser cap from a mechanical pencil would work but its seems like it might be too big (roughly 7/32). I was also looking at micro acorn cap nuts as an option. Those might be the way to go. If the actuator on the switch can be sanded, that means I can most likely twist the bolt on for a tight fit.

I guess my best bet is to buy the switch and tinker around.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Usually, those are NOT used with a cap of any type.

[darth_chasm]

Thanks for the heads-up. Is there a reason why or is it just not common?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Thanks for the heads-up. Is there a reason why or is it just not common?


It's not common, and that is a switch - it's just brown in color.

[cakira21]

the 12mm AV switch will use a 7/16" drill bit and the tap you will need is a 12mm x 0.75" TAP i just bought the tap and i will be testing this out as soon as i get it in. i'll verify once i've tested to be certain.

[J2Metal]

I am modding a MHS saber I built years ago to add a Vandal latching switch. I have all I need but I need to widen the hole on my hilt to fit the bigger switch (I formerly had a standard black latching switch). I am comfortable with drilling but I had a question about the bit and tap. As I understand it a tap is used to add threads. In the video CSS posted about switch holes it doesn't appear his 16mm hole is threaded as the switch drops right in. So my question is if I just want the switch to drop in and use the nut and bezel to secure it do I still need to tap the hole? Also is the bit in the initial post still the right size?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

If you are using a nut, then no, you don't need to tap the hole.

[jt_trouble]

the 12mm AV switch will use a 7/16" drill bit and the tap you will need is a 12mm x 0.75" TAP i just bought the tap and i will be testing this out as soon as i get it in. i'll verify once i've tested to be certain.

is this accurate?

What size bit would I use if I wanted to press fit it?

[Thorgal Pain]

This chart will solve any questions about taps, and hole sizes.
12476

[unclescary]

Not to be high maintenance, But i can't see the numbers very well on the chart and when I enlarge the image it gets all pixelated. So, can someone verify what size drill and tap bits for the 12mm Av switch?

[Cire Yeldarb]

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?11154-Commonly-used-Drill-bits-taps-and-measurements&highlight=drill+size

[cannibal869]

the 12mm AV switch will use a 7/16" drill bit and the tap you will need is a 12mm x 0.75" TAP i just bought the tap and i will be testing this out as soon as i get it in. i'll verify once i've tested to be certain.

Just wondering - was anyone able to confirm these parts for drilling and tapping the 12mm AV switches?

EDIT: Yes I can confirm 12mm x 0.75 tap for the 12mm AV switches. Also, the one I ordered came with an 11.3mm drill bit.
Doesn't seem to be a common tap or threading for the US.

[demogod05]

I have a question about what tap and die set to use and I didn't see it elsewhere in this thread so I apologize if I am repeating this question. The standard threads used on the male and female ends of all the MHS parts to make all of the blade holders, chokes, extensions, etc compatible with each other. What tap and die are used with them? I was thinking about added some custom parts made on my mini lathe to my sabers and I want them to be able to attache to my MHS parts. Anyone know?

[Greenie]

That info is proprietary.

[darkus31]

I have been wondering all over the net looking for drill and tap size charts , this is such a blessing to have. Ty very much to all that contributed .

[Galaxyfalcon]

I just tried drilling using a 13/64" bit for the silver tactile switch, but it's not a snug fit (too loose). I'm wondering if I messed up in my drilling process, but can anyone confirm if that's the right drill size to snugly mount the silver tactile switches?

[SlyKittyCat]

I just tried drilling using a 13/64" bit for the silver tactile switch, but it's not a snug fit (too loose). I'm wondering if I messed up in my drilling process, but can anyone confirm if that's the right drill size to snugly mount the silver tactile switches?

Drill Bit .205
for this switch https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/S...itch-P641.aspx
https://www.ebay.com/itm/292107763004