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Knight Of The Republic
06-03-2010, 12:35 PM
Hey guys. I am looking for any help that can help me wire up my Pololu board & my 'SPST Momentary tactile switch' and my Anakin Skywalker ROTS MR sound board. I have seen the diagrams for just the MR boards, but nothing with the Pololu board thrown into the mix.

Thanks.

Rathan
06-03-2010, 01:04 PM
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=23490.msg350281#msg350281

Jay-gon Jinn
06-03-2010, 01:25 PM
Here's the post from that topic at FX-sabers:
I did not find this little board but saw it posted by another member. I bought some and have done some testing. So far I have powered a MR board, buck puck, and a cheap hasbro board + P4 (using pololu board to power the p4 so there is no clash flash). All with great success (well except for instant on and off with the hasbro combo).

Here is a link to the board http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/750

There are two versions of the board so get the correct one for your application (I would go with LV on MR boards and SV on buck pucks). If you just want to get one version I have tested the SV and it works down to 3V but not sure if it will cause it damage.

Here is a diagram I made to help out on hook up to a MR board:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Wiring%20Diagrams/pololumrboard1.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Wiring%20Diagrams/pololumrboard2.jpg


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Wiring%20Diagrams/pololumrboard3.jpg


Here it is for a puck (same picture but wiring text changed)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Wiring%20Diagrams/pololuboardpuck.jpg

Hope this helps someone.

EDIT: I didn't mention one thing in the write up. To use this in conjunction with a economy hasbro board (the new ones at least) you have to use a DPDT switch. The hasbro board has one of its pins connected to ground so it messes up the function of the pololu board (makes it on all the time).

Knight Of The Republic
06-03-2010, 01:32 PM
Great!! This is perfect. Thank you sooo much.

:D

Knight Of The Republic
06-03-2010, 01:39 PM
Well, it looks like I ordered the wrong Pololu board the first time so I had to buy another one. I didn't even know that there were different models, ha ha. The first time I ordered the SV board and the instructions above indicated that I needed a LV board for a MR sound board. Oh well. At least they are only $10 shipped.

Arkhan
06-03-2010, 09:01 PM
I believe the SV switch is still capable of running where the LV is specified. If you look at the minimum switching voltage for the SV, I believe 4.5v from the FX board is enough.

That being said, the LV is the *correct* board. I made the same mistake, but caught it soon enough to change my order.

dj2rbo
06-04-2010, 08:57 AM
Hi what is the purpose of this switch? I dont seem to get it at all.

Knight Of The Republic
06-04-2010, 09:03 AM
It lets you use a 'momentary' switch instead of a 'latching' switch. A momentary switch will only turn the electronics on when you hold the button down. As soon as you release the button the electronics would turn off. So this board lets the momentary switch turn on the electronics with one push of a button and then another push turns them all off. I want to use a really small tactile momentary switch to put under my red Graflex button. A normal switch is far too big and wont fit.

Rathan
06-04-2010, 11:11 AM
Hi what is the purpose of this switch? I dont seem to get it at all.

Most latching switches are noticeably longer then momentary switches. Also, you might like the style of a certain momentary switch that you cant find in a latching version.

Knight Of The Republic
06-07-2010, 05:14 PM
Well I received my Pololu board today and I already installed it into my Graflex saber. I LOVED it. It is so small and simple and it works perfectly. I used a extremely small tactile switch (which was the hardest part of building the whole saber) and put it up under the red button on the Graflex and hooked it up with my MR Anakin sound board and it worked great. My only thing I have to work on now is the clash sensor isn't as responsive as I hoped. It is just floating in the hilt and I think if I mount it on something so it can feel the vibrations it will work much better. So that is next. I also need a speaker holder. For now I just hot glued it to my battery holder. It isn't nearly as loud as my MR ESB Vader so I am hoping it will be louder once I put the speaker holder on the speaker so it might direct the sound more out of the bottom through the holes I drilled.

Oh, can you use a Pololu board with just a battery pack and a LED? No soundboard? I want to use a momentary switch on my little boys saber and he doesn't have a soundboard in his and I think the Pololu board would be great if it would work.

Well thanks for the help.

Jay-gon Jinn
06-10-2010, 08:52 AM
Well I received my Pololu board today and I already installed it into my Graflex saber. I LOVED it. It is so small and simple and it works perfectly. I used a extremely small tactile switch (which was the hardest part of building the whole saber) and put it up under the red button on the Graflex and hooked it up with my MR Anakin sound board and it worked great. My only thing I have to work on now is the clash sensor isn't as responsive as I hoped. It is just floating in the hilt and I think if I mount it on something so it can feel the vibrations it will work much better. So that is next. I also need a speaker holder. For now I just hot glued it to my battery holder. It isn't nearly as loud as my MR ESB Vader so I am hoping it will be louder once I put the speaker holder on the speaker so it might direct the sound more out of the bottom through the holes I drilled.

Oh, can you use a Pololu board with just a battery pack and a LED? No soundboard? I want to use a momentary switch on my little boys saber and he doesn't have a soundboard in his and I think the Pololu board would be great if it would work.

Well thanks for the help.
You can use a pololu board in a soundless stunt, but use the other version for the higher voltage, the SV version instead of the LV.

For your clash sensor in your Graflex, try hot gluing it to the actual sound board. I do that on all of the MR boards I use, an it work very well. Another option you have if you want to try it, is to rewire the board completely, like shown in this topic:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=10789

For your speaker, you can try making a resonator for it using a 3/4" pvc coupler from the hardware store. The ones my local one carries have a beveled edge that allows the speaker to fit right into it making it easy to hot glue it in place. I have an old topic around here somewhere that shows this.....Here's one: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=3059 Here's a better one (Wow, all the way back to my first ever build topic!) :http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=2190&page=2


I also just used one of these in a Qui-gon Jinn replica saber I have running an MR board and a plastic Radio Shack momentary switch, and it works like a charm! Thanks to member Troyo for posting this find in the first place!

Knight Of The Republic
06-10-2010, 02:10 PM
Thanks for the info. I finished it up and I also used a 3/4 inch PVC coupler. I didn't glue the speaker in though. I cut the coupler in two halves about 3/4 inches for both. Then I painted the half that you can see through the pommel black. Then I put the speaker into the white half and I dremmeled the black half on the inside lip so it would fit over the top ove the speaker and sit flush on the other non painted half. Then I hot glued those two halves together. It worked really well.

The shock sensor I got figured out as well. I ended up putting the sound card back into the black MR plastic holder (I cut the top off to get it out but it is still pretty in tact). Then I hot glued the shock sensor onto that with the sensor lining up with the blade so any hits would send the little spring metal piece inside into the other metal piece.

I am pretty happy with how it turned out. I now only want to change out the blade holder for one that isn't drilled crooked for the glass eye screw.

I actully have a extra Pololu sv board cause I ordered the wrong one initially. So that is perfect that it will work with the LED only. Thanks for that tip.

I LOVE the Pololu board. I highly recommend it to anyone who wants to convert their momentary switch into a latching one. It is easy to hook up and it's small so it fits inside easy. The tutorial was great. Thanks again for that.



You can use a pololu board in a soundless stunt, but use the other version for the higher voltage, the SV version instead of the LV.

For your clash sensor in your Graflex, try hot gluing it to the actual sound board. I do that on all of the MR boards I use, an it work very well. Another option you have if you want to try it, is to rewire the board completely, like shown in this topic:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=10789

For your speaker, you can try making a resonator for it using a 3/4" pvc coupler from the hardware store. The ones my local one carries have a beveled edge that allows the speaker to fit right into it making it easy to hot glue it in place. I have an old topic around here somewhere that shows this.....Here's one: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=3059 Here's a better one (Wow, all the way back to my first ever build topic!) :http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=2190&page=2


I also just used one of these in a Qui-gon Jinn replica saber I have running an MR board and a plastic Radio Shack momentary switch, and it works like a charm! Thanks to member Troyo for posting this find in the first place!

Shadar Al'Niende
07-01-2010, 06:24 PM
does anyone have the dimensions for this board? as stated above, do not use the link in Jay-Gon's post, use http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/751

I am after HxWxL measurements for this board if anyone can toss em my way! :D


*edit* oh, and just to clarify: Two leads come off of the battery - (or GND) pad on the MR board. One to the battery, one to the pololu board.

cardcollector
07-01-2010, 06:54 PM
From that site Shad...

•Dimensions: 0.4" x 0.9" x 0.125" (without header pins and pushbutton installed)

Shadar Al'Niende
07-01-2010, 07:13 PM
From that site Shad...

•Dimensions: 0.4" x 0.9" x 0.125" (without header pins and pushbutton installed)

D'oh... thanks *facepalm*

Noyl Wendor
08-07-2010, 01:15 AM
Kind of dead thread, but I have been doing some research on the pololu board and so far I get it, save one Q.
I see in the diagram that the "-" from the board or battery source. It looks like you can ground it from either. Is there a benifit to doing one (from battery source) or the other (board)?
Plus, the area marked momentary switch leads, would it be possible to mount a two pin momentay to the board directly? Instead of putting wires in the board for your switch?
BTW I lied, that was two Q's. :)

Shadar Al'Niende
08-07-2010, 07:45 AM
... Plus, the area marked momentary switch leads, would it be possible to mount a two pin momentay to the board directly? Instead of putting wires in the board for your switch?... :)

If i understand your question, I think maybe you are asking about something like this:

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHLukeFX/051.jpg

Sloth did that HERE (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showpost.php?p=174845&postcount=118)

Jay-gon Jinn
08-07-2010, 09:35 AM
The pololu boards actually come with mini-tactile switch that can be soldered directly to the board.

Noyl Wendor
08-07-2010, 11:26 AM
If i understand your question, I think maybe you are asking about something like this:

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHLukeFX/051.jpg

Sloth did that HERE (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showpost.php?p=174845&postcount=118)

:) Thats it. So I'm going out on a limb when I say that there is probably nothing let that I can think of that some one on the boards has not tried/done :) lol.
Very cool. Thanks for the answer Shadar, and the pic.
Nice work BTW.

Shadar Al'Niende
08-07-2010, 01:42 PM
:) Thats it. So I'm going out on a limb when I say that there is probably nothing let that I can think of that some one on the boards has not tried/done :) lol.
Very cool. Thanks for the answer Shadar, and the pic.
Nice work BTW.

work was Slothfurnace's, i am by no means at that level of smithing ;) check the link i posted...

Noyl Wendor
08-10-2010, 07:36 PM
Okay, still working on deciphering the diagram a bit. In the pic it shows the ground "-" (from MR board) goes to the switch. Does that mean that you connect another ground to the other side?
I'm asking because I want to attempt to wire this switch into an existing set up that has a recharge port in it.
The diagram says "ground from battery source", I am guessing that its stating there is another ground attachment on the other side of the board.

Jay-gon Jinn
08-10-2010, 09:31 PM
You just need to add a jumper wire from the ground on the MR board to any one of the GND pads/holes on the pololu. You have the option to just run a wire from the board ground tab on the recharge port to the pololu as well...it accomplishes the same thing. You only need to ground the pololu once.

Noyl Wendor
08-11-2010, 09:29 AM
You just need to add a jumper wire from the ground on the MR board to any one of the GND pads/holes on the pololu. You have the option to just run a wire from the board ground tab on the recharge port to the pololu as well...it accomplishes the same thing. You only need to ground the pololu once.

So I can use one end of the jumpers I have already, 1(neg "-")to the pololu, 1 (neg "-") to the recharge port. Right? Sounds pretty simple. If I understand you correctly.

Jay-gon Jinn
08-12-2010, 10:40 PM
So I can use one end of the jumpers I have already, 1(neg "-")to the pololu, 1 (neg "-") to the recharge port. Right? Sounds pretty simple. If I understand you correctly.
You could...I usually just run the ground from the pololu board to the ground on the MR and solder it there, leaving just one ground from the MR board to the recharge port.

Noyl Wendor
08-13-2010, 07:33 PM
You could...I usually just run the ground from the pololu board to the ground on the MR and solder it there, leaving just one ground from the MR board to the recharge port.

:) Monkey see.....monkey do! Thats what I did...works like a charm. Thanks for the input.

Jedi-Elf
08-18-2010, 04:31 PM
Ok, I just got my pololu switch in the mail and I want to be sure I have this right. Do I have to use the mini tactile switch that came with the board or can I just wire the switch I have into the pololu board? I'm using the gold AV switch from the store here.

Shadar Al'Niende
08-18-2010, 05:10 PM
Ok, I just got my pololu switch in the mail and I want to be sure I have this right. Do I have to use the mini tactile switch that came with the board or can I just wire the switch I have into the pololu board? I'm using the gold AV switch from the store here.

You can use either one. You may need to desolder the tactile, not sure on that one...

Arkhan
08-18-2010, 07:49 PM
The included mini tactile switch was not pre-installed, at least on the 2 Pololu LV boards I've received.

As such, you can use any momentary switch(s) you desire.

One thing to keep in mind, the Vin and Vout spots on the Pololu ARE polarity sensitive.

For instance, on the FX sound boards, the SWITCH+ wire needs to go to Vin, and SWITCH- needs to go to Vout.

If you get them backwards, the circuit will be stuck "always on"

If you neglect to connect one of the pololu ground pads to the board/battery NEG- , the pololu will act just like the momentary switch, and won't stay on.

Jedi-Elf
08-18-2010, 10:42 PM
Right now I am not using any soundboard, just an LED with a buckpuck.

Kurosawa
08-27-2010, 05:27 AM
Ok, ive more or less figured out the diagram save for one bit... I wired my 4AAA and speaker together. So, I hook the Battery's Negative wire to the "SP-" port on the board, and i hook the positive to the VDD port?

Arkhan
08-27-2010, 05:53 AM
speaker+ wired to battery+ (not vdd)
Speaker- wired to SPK- wire on soundboard

Kurosawa
08-27-2010, 03:06 PM
speaker+ wired to battery+ (not vdd)
Speaker- wired to SPK- wire on soundboard

So nothing gets connected to the VDD terminal on the board? or is that where the battery + gets connected to? (i think its the latter, but im just sure)

Arkhan
08-27-2010, 03:34 PM
I believe I misspoke.

The Battery+ and Speaker+ would be connected to VDD on your Hasbro FX board.

Keep in mind however, that there are TWO different VDD labeled contacts on the board.

The VDD that is on the wiring harness for the LED is not the same circuit as the VDD that is up by the SPK-

You'll want the VDD up next to SPK- for your batterypack/speaker.

If you look at the MR/Hasbro FX wiring diagrams, you'll see a picture that shows the two VDD labeled contacts, and that you want the one on the long edge of the board, not the short side.

Kurosawa
08-27-2010, 04:36 PM
Yep that pretty much clears everything up, thanks so much guys and gals!! i can finally finish by dream project. Cheers to all of you!

Marco
08-30-2010, 11:46 AM
It lets you use a 'momentary' switch instead of a 'latching' switch. A momentary switch will only turn the electronics on when you hold the button down. As soon as you release the button the electronics would turn off. FOR REAL? I thought you push it on and push it off ... But you are tellin me the momentary switches e.g. out of the shop have to be hold??? Seriously? If it is really that way I read somewhere you can use a latching with MR boards... so that solves the problem with MR and CF boards but what about the cheap hasbros... Rhyen actually said that they only can be used with momentarys... PLEASE DONT TELL ME I HAVE TO WIRE UP A POLULUTHING OR OTHERWISE I HAVE TO HOLD THE BUTTON THE WHOLE TIME WHILE I AM FIGHTIN... NOOOOOOO!!!! :shock::shock::shock:

:D

Jedi-Loreen
08-30-2010, 12:20 PM
The cheapy Hasbro boards have a circuit on the board that keeps it turned on, once you press the momentary switch. You do not have to keep the button pressed on those.

Arkhan
08-30-2010, 12:21 PM
The cheapy hasbros use a momentary switch. You press the button once, it powers on. You press the button again, it powers off.

it doesn't latch, it merely changes the power status whenever it gets a switch closure. You don't hold it down.

The behavior you were describing is what happens when you try to use a momentary switch instead of a latching switch on a board that requires LATCHING switch.

Marco
08-30-2010, 12:51 PM
Ah what a relief :D which boards do require latching switches?

Jay-gon Jinn
08-30-2010, 02:03 PM
Ah what a relief :D which boards do require latching switches?

Master Replicas Force FX and Hasbro Signature Series Force FX.

Arkhan
08-30-2010, 02:14 PM
the first saber I made for my 5-year old, I made him hold the button down on it, given that he has a bad habit of draining flashlights around the house.

When he gets older, it can be converted to a latching switch.

Marco
08-31-2010, 02:09 AM
haha nice solution :D:D:D AND THANKS JAY GON

Noyl Wendor
06-19-2011, 01:47 PM
Okay very dead thread, but it has a lot to do with what I'm working on now. So here we go.
I have just recieved a new graflex (#2) and I want to go easy with this one. So my plan was to gut the MR Anikin that I have and put all the electronics and battery pack in the hilt of my new graflex. One issue I see atm is wiring in a momentary switch to the MR board. With out changing the existing BP that is in the MR set up, I'm looking for a way to keep the plastic coverings, battery set up and speaker from the MR. According to the wiring diagram at the begining of this thread I should be able to do that.
If the ground from the board can be used, on the pololu board could I make a "splice" or a jumper back to the battery?
Maybe I didn't get the Q out clear.

Jay-gon Jinn
06-19-2011, 07:04 PM
If the ground from the board can be used, on the pololu board could I make a "splice" or a jumper back to the battery?
Maybe I didn't get the Q out clear.
Yes, you can splice a ground from the MR board to the Pololu and it'll work just fine. I usually just add another wire to the board negative and run that to the ground on the Pololu and it works just fine.

Noyl Wendor
06-19-2011, 07:55 PM
Yes, you can splice a ground from the MR board to the Pololu and it'll work just fine. I usually just add another wire to the board negative and run that to the ground on the Pololu and it works just fine.

Cool. I figured as much. Confirmation is always good. :)

MedicineMan
11-22-2011, 09:24 PM
On the Pololu board, can I use the following switch with it?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-tactile-switch-P285.aspx

Skottsaber
11-23-2011, 03:19 AM
If it's a momentary switch then you can use it.

dustunite
02-18-2012, 01:06 PM
can someone please help I'm using the buckpuck wiring diagram (no sound) but my board is always on. i saw this can happen by incorrectly wiring to a sound card but has this happened to anyone without one?

Sunrider
02-18-2012, 10:02 PM
Pololu boards can be finicky. Does it turn on but not off?

dustunite
02-19-2012, 10:27 AM
its been on since i wired it up. as soon as the batteries are in it comes on and wont switch off

Sunrider
02-19-2012, 12:06 PM
Check to see if power is shorted back to battery positive.

dustunite
02-19-2012, 12:56 PM
i dont think so but im not totally sure what im looking for6464

dustunite
02-19-2012, 02:20 PM
I just wired up a second one and it works fine, not sure if the first was defective, but Im glad it wasn't me not following simple instructions

Kurosawa
01-03-2016, 01:54 PM
I am currently planning a build using a 2007 hasbro ANH vader board, a Pololu board, 7.4 v battery pack with a recharge port. and to be perfectly honest I have no idea where which wire goes to what. I have wired a Pololu to an MR board before but not with a recharge port in the mix. Any help would be appreciated.

Jay-gon Jinn
01-03-2016, 05:30 PM
7.4 volts will destroy that sound board unless you put a 5volt regulator in there with it. Adding in a recharge port is as easy as adding one on for any other board....put the recharge between the battery and the board.

the_Deej
02-06-2018, 05:46 PM
has anyone on here tried the Pololu converter with the new Black Series sabers?

And, if you have, how'd you wire it up so you could use a momentary switch with it. I've got on of the new converters and I'm having a difficult time getting it to work with the Rey (Jedi Training) saber.