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gstealer
06-09-2006, 07:43 PM
Checked the search and thread index and saw nothing on this soo here's a post.

I picked up Tim's Luke FX sound board (should have orderd the pommel too) and after checking the wiring diagram, I'm confused.

The wiring diagram says that the LED may be ran at too high or low of amperage if using the output from the board. How else should it be wired? Please try to keep it simple as I'm not electrically brilliant. Thanks.

xwingband
06-09-2006, 07:52 PM
I believe he's reffering to keeping it at 4.5V instead of pushing it to 6V with a 4AAA pack.[?]

You could use a resistor with a DPDT though.

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Strydur
06-10-2006, 12:52 AM
There is no way for me to know exactly what amperage the led would be running at using that output do to different voltage inputs..different led types etc..so I said that to cover my arse.

That said..we use that output for fx conversions all the time..

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

Madcow
06-10-2006, 10:48 AM
But...
Have you checked to see if the voltage is the same?
In other words, if I have a 4.5 v. power supply and use the wires coming from the FX board straight to my LED - is it still 4.5 when it gets to the LED?

MC



http://rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos/tn/88_348.ts1141004694072.jpg
You want to go home and re-think your life

gstealer
06-20-2006, 07:21 AM
Thanks for the help guys.

I got it installed this weekend and it worked great.

After getting it all hooked up, I promptly ripped the little connecting board out of the speaker while checking a wire problem with the batteries. [:(!] Dagnabbit. Luckily I had a hasbro sound set up waiting for another build and took the speaker from that.

SilentBob501
07-24-2006, 06:59 PM
OK I have an LED saber already all wired up with tims MHS basic electronics kit. I just bought the luke fx sound module, now ive been looking through the threads and diagrams for how to hook it in, my question is do I still use the resistor and if so where does it go? and can I still use the battery setup i have, its 4 AAA's

james3
07-24-2006, 07:45 PM
If you want to run the LED off of the MR board then you can scrap the resistor, if you want to have the full potential of your LUXIII then keep the resistor and feed the sound board and LED seperately using the same batt pack. The MR sound board can handle 6 volts ok, don't fprget that the first batch of sabers were 9 volts and I would not be surprised to find out they could do 12 volts. If anyone would like to send me a sound board I would be happy to try[8D]

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

SilentBob501
07-24-2006, 08:15 PM
ok, does anyone have a schematic for attaching the light and sound seperately using the same battery pack?

james3
07-24-2006, 08:42 PM
Well if you use a DPDT switch you can just wire both from the battery to the device ala:

battery----------switch right leg-----sound card
______----------switch left leg------LUXEON III

Battery<font color="red">-----------------------------Sound card
______-----------------------------LUXEON III</font id="red">

If you are using Tim's switch in the store (SPST) then just tie on your leg for the sound the same way you did the LED, your switch would then feed both devices. just make sure you break the same side of current that you did the first time.

Hope this helps.

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>
EDIT- This may be better:

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/1switchsetup-1.jpg

naashar
08-02-2006, 12:03 PM
Ok, folks, forgive my idiocy:

I received my Luke sound package today (yay! happy dance[:D][:D]), but I find the diagrams and the actual cutaway picture thread to be a bit..confusing [:I].

Could some kind soul explain, as simply as possible, where a. to connect the resistor and b. the led or, explain how I'm to duplicate the diagram so kindly provided by james3?

I appreciate your patience...

You don't need to see any identification.

Do-Clo
08-02-2006, 12:45 PM
I added a black block to James'diagram which would be the resister needed for the led, hope it helps
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/Do-Clo/1switchsetup-1.jpg

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naashar
08-02-2006, 01:26 PM
It does indeed! Am I to assume that the resistor comes from the negative pole of the led, and I can ignore that rainbow dealie? Also, the two positive leads on the sound card: do those have to be "spliced" or can I use them separately to satisfy the diagram?

Thanks again, Do-Clo!!

You don't need to see any identification.

**edit: Much obliged, m'friend!![:D]

Do-Clo
08-02-2006, 01:51 PM
Yes the resister can be connected to the negative side of the led and you will not be using the output of the sound board at all. I would just connect the two positive inputs of the sound card together and then connect them to the switch.

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naashar
08-04-2006, 12:21 AM
AAARRRRGHGHHGHGHGHHGHH!!!!!!!!!!! [}:)][}:)][xx(]Sorry..
Just REALLY frustrated with this deal. I can't get the board to work. I actually touched two of the leads together by accident, and it sounded like it wanted to ignite, but I can't figure out what I did...or what to do.

Ok, maybe a little simpler? I'm really cruising in idiot mode tonight. Ok, going to smoke a coffin nail, and hit the rack. Maybe, by Dawn's Early Light, I'll see some help...

Thanks for listening, and thanks for the help.

You don't need to see any identification.

Do-Clo
08-04-2006, 06:45 AM
Hang in there I have put things down before and walked away, sometimes it takes a rested mind to see the problem.[;)]

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naashar
08-04-2006, 08:05 AM
Maybe I'll just undo all the connections and start from scratch...

You don't need to see any identification.

Madcow
08-04-2006, 10:14 AM
Go to radio shack and buy a small bag of tiny alligator clips. Then you can carefully assemble test circuts with no soldering. Just hold the two wires you want to connect with the alligator clips (do this with all you connections).

MC


http://rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos/tn/88_348.ts1141004694072.jpg
You want to go home and re-think your life

Drewbacca
08-04-2006, 10:30 AM
You could also wrap the wires together and use tape. just have to be careful not to pull them apart while you're trying to figure out how it should all go together.

________________________________
"That's 'cause droids don't pull people's arms out of their sockets when they lose. Wookiees are known to do that."

naashar
08-04-2006, 02:14 PM
Kool an' the Gang. I actually stopped by a "Mom-n-Pop" type electronics shop today. "Pop" actually took a look at my excuse for a set up(4 free, to boot), and I printed out the schmatic to show 'im. Turns out that all I have to do is solder my positive leads from the card to the positive lead from the battery. Bless his heart; you can't get service like that anymore...Anyway, I hope it works; I've got my switch soldered to that lead. It's been so long since I've done anything elec-tron-ical[:D]. Yes, I just made up a word. Operating on 3hrs of sleep here, so you're lucky I was this coherant.[;)]

Thanks again guys; I'll let ya know how it goes (the "acid" test is tonight, after work!)

You don't need to see any identification.

**edit: Ok, I got it to work..for about 30 seconds.[V] I think I may have an issue in my switch.

Yoiaholic
08-05-2006, 08:28 AM
That or it sounds like you burned out the LED, was the heatsink on?

_________________________

'Your swords please, we wouldn't want to make a mess of things in front of the Chancellor.' -Count Dooku
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/yoiaholic/dookubig.jpg

naashar
08-05-2006, 09:35 AM
Oh yeah. The LED is fine! In fact, it's been the only thing working w/some consistancy. The heatsink was indeed on; it's the set up I got from Tim. Pre-assembled action!

You don't need to see any identification.

Yoiaholic
08-05-2006, 10:32 AM
Thats good to hear :) I've tried to use the mini switch that radio shack sells, it didn't work because it would turn off if you moved the saber so I understand the switch issues too.

_________________________

'Your swords please, we wouldn't want to make a mess of things in front of the Chancellor.' -Count Dooku
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/yoiaholic/dookubig.jpg

Jedi Ranger
08-06-2006, 04:48 PM
This seems to be the closest topic, so I'll just ask this here: what is the minimum voltage the Luke FX sound needs to operate properly? Will it run ok off 2.4v? (2 AA rechargeables)

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xwingband
08-06-2006, 05:04 PM
For sound only? If you just plan on the sound maybe... it'd be really weak sounding. That is definatly not enough for the lux as it doesn't exceed the forward voltage.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?.

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naashar
08-06-2006, 06:10 PM
Gents:

Undid all the connects, started from scratch, and, in a word...

<font size="5">SUCCESS!!!</font id="size5">[:D][8D][:D]

Big shouts go out to Do, Drew, Mad, and Yoi for all the help and encouragement.

Pics to follow..the Circle is now Complete.

Thx again!

You don't need to see any identification.

**edit: Thanks again, Do-Clo! You helped me out a h#ll of a lot!! Pics posted in appropriate threads...

Do-Clo
08-06-2006, 10:00 PM
Congrads Naashar

edit: your welcome Bro

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<center><font color="red"><font size="4"><font face="Comic Sans MS">Give yourself to the Dark Side</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size4"></font id="red"></center>

Mi Gin Gonn
08-07-2006, 10:08 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Madcow

Go to radio shack and buy a small bag of tiny alligator clips. Then you can carefully assemble test circuts with no soldering. Just hold the two wires you want to connect with the alligator clips (do this with all you connections).<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

good call, Madcow. that saved me a helluva lot of trouble wiring up this Luke MR sound board in my new saber. muchos gracias!




-------------------------

"Now, if you'll excuse me, I have some idea-balls to remove from a manitee tank."

Madcow
08-07-2006, 10:29 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Mi Gin Gonn

good call, Madcow. that saved me a helluva lot of trouble wiring up this Luke MR sound board in my new saber. muchos gracias!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Now you owe ME a coffee!

MC


http://rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos/tn/88_348.ts1141004694072.jpg
You want to go home and re-think your life

macross73
08-07-2006, 10:42 PM
I'm very interested in your reslusts
I want add sound to mine aswell and
this thread has been really helpful
in explaining how to go about it.

Step away from the Lightsaber. It burns.

Mi Gin Gonn
08-08-2006, 08:42 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Madcow
Now you owe ME a coffee!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

actually, amigo, i'm moving back to m'homestate of Oregon at the end of the year, so name yer flavor and we'll get wired. maybe we could meet halfway between Portland and your joint and duel it out with Strydur? [8D]

-------------------------

"Now, if you'll excuse me, I have some idea-balls to remove from a manitee tank."

Madcow
08-08-2006, 09:58 PM
I'm down

http://rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos/tn/88_348.ts1141004694072.jpg
You want to go home and re-think your life

Strydur
08-08-2006, 11:52 PM
You two can come visit me..its about half way

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

What
12-04-2006, 05:45 PM
I know this may seem like a huge nub question for most of you, but please bear with me.
How does this
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/prodimages/mrlukesound.jpg
Compare to this?
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/1switchsetup-1.jpg
Because, I dont see 1000 wires coming out of that Soundboard on the wiring diagram....... :?
(appropriate amount of flaming is due) :wink:

Firebird21
12-04-2006, 05:50 PM
That diagram only shows the Power Wires on the S/B.

xwingband
12-04-2006, 05:59 PM
Yeah... not going to work. The Luke board has a seperate set of switch wires.

Not sure what you are getting at there either... just wire it like a conversion. It looks like you might be trying to get a direct drive setup but if so your diagram is pretty... wonky. :P

What
12-04-2006, 06:11 PM
are you talking about the picture, that picture came from the ealier pictures from page 1 lol, i just 'borrowed' it. Thanks for explaining that though, i am planning on buying one in the future, and have not idea where i would start wiring, ill go swim through some conversion things... :)

james3
12-04-2006, 08:03 PM
You are using the diagram out of context, that is the problem.

If memory serves me well that was for a direct drive setup with a sound board.

erictank
12-06-2006, 10:05 PM
So, say a fella had an '03 Luke FX (the EL one) that he was willing to scrap for parts. Could this sound setup (board and speaker) be used in the same manner for a 3W Luxeon saber build?

Eric Tank
SL-7171 Garrison Tyranus/501st Legion
Freedom Base/Rebel Legion

xwingband
12-06-2006, 10:12 PM
Nope, EL and LED are two complete different technologies. The EL version shouldn't even look close to the wiring at all.

I have a Ani AOTC (EL also) and I have yet to make heads or tails of it.

erictank
12-06-2006, 10:17 PM
Well, nuts. I was hoping I could at least get SOMETHING useful out of it.

xwingband
12-06-2006, 10:23 PM
Well, EL does take 9V. That would be good for a Lux V. That's what I plan on when/if I use my EL board.

It is usable just not for driving the Luxeon directly. You'd have to setup a relay or a DPDT switch that would direct drive the sucker via a resistor.

erictank
12-06-2006, 11:10 PM
Well, EL does take 9V. That would be good for a Lux V. That's what I plan on when/if I use my EL board.

It is usable just not for driving the Luxeon directly. You'd have to setup a relay or a DPDT switch that would direct drive the sucker via a resistor.

Maybe I'll save that for a white Luxeon 5 saber, then, and wait on Erv's buttered-toast board for my 3W Jedi saber. Not like I'll be building either of them tomorrow anyways. Thanks for your input.

james3
12-07-2006, 07:27 AM
Looks like xwing took good care of ya.

I have an AOTC Anakin that is just sitting here and I keep thinking should I convert it or leave it be. 5w is the way to go on it though for sure.

Ryma Mara
12-26-2006, 01:01 PM
With the el boards there just sound right?

xwingband
12-26-2006, 02:05 PM
With the el boards there just sound right?

You'd only be able to use them that way. That's if you wanted Luxeon at least.

vortextwist
12-26-2006, 03:40 PM
then the el board dosent have any blade effects correct

jjshumpert
12-26-2006, 03:48 PM
not that you would be able to use, you would have to do a direct drive to the led and sound with both run thru the switch, its a pain to convert an mr el saber, i did with a aotc ani and it wasnt pretty