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View Full Version : Light Spear PVC and TCSS Sink-Holder



Darth Abominor
05-23-2010, 02:55 PM
I had an extra TCSS 1.25" Sinktube LED Blade holder floating around and decided to 'bond it' via some super paste (ProPoxy20) to a bit of 1in PVC pipe and fittings.. in 2 hours, a Light Spear is born. Just added a bit of 'hammered steel' paint on the neck and end cap.

Runs on 4AA with a Lux3 Red (1400mah res'd) with a bit of SaberForge 1in blade I happened to still have on hand.

6'5" overall length, 15" blade.

Not sure if she can take heavy dueling, but for forms and light sparring I am rather trusting of the bonding paste.

http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac63/avatar6699/Light_Spear.jpg
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac63/avatar6699/Light_Spear_Tip.jpg
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac63/avatar6699/Light_Spear_Tip_Painted.jpg
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac63/avatar6699/Light_Spear_Pom.jpg
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac63/avatar6699/Light_Spear_Pom_Painted.jpg

Jin Ke
05-24-2010, 07:11 AM
Looks cool.... That is def a more economical choice then I made.... LOL :) My extension piece cost more than the "hilt" portion to make!

Darth Midian
05-24-2010, 07:59 AM
That's pretty sweet. I was thinking about building something like. My idea was inspired from watching the classic movie Dragonslayer. I wanted it to be loosely based from the dragon lance. I was thinking about having an amber blade. It hasn't gone much past the thought process though.

As for your sink tube PVC connection, have you thought about drilling a couple of holes through the pvc and into blade holder, tapping the blade holder and useing screws with washers to secure it better. Use screws just long enough to secure the 2 pieces without interfearing with the blade. That is pretty cool, good job.

Darth Abominor
05-24-2010, 02:05 PM
Due to the positioning of the blade holder in the PVC collar, I could.. could being the operative word here, pop a single hole just mid point of the collar to hit one of the already tapped holes on the holder. My fear is that doing this would make me want to test it out and most likely break the whole damn thing with a splintered collar section. ;)

On the next test I'll do so and see if it's any way stronger than this super poxy method. At $9-$10 for ALL of the PVC parts, I can play around often with the design.

Darth Midian
05-24-2010, 03:00 PM
I understand, that would suck to go through all that work and have it break. That's why I've been building my sabers out of pvc. You get 10' of pvc for like $3.00. Hilts galore. I have a few more pvc projects. When I finish those, I'm going to start setting money aside and start using MHS.