Rathan's 1st saber - sink tube (MR Sound w/ Rebel Green)

[Rathan]

With absolutely no "Dremel-Fu" and the uttermost basic level of "Soldering-Fu" ... I have started my first saber build.
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/1stsaber001.jpg
Parts:
1 - Rebel GREEN LED
1 - MR FX Anakin 2005 Sound card
1 - MHS LED Blade Holder style 3
1 - MHS to 1.5" Sink tube adapter
1 - 1.25" x 12" Joint extension tube
2 - 1.50" x 12" Sink tube
12 - 1.25" Poly washers
10 - 1.50" Poly washers
1 - Chrome faucet knob
1 - Black SPST Mom switch w/ Pololu monentary-to-latching board
1 - Green accent LED
1 - TCSS 2.1mm Charge port
1 - 4AA battery holder
5 - 8/32 Set screws
1 - 8/32 Head cap screw
1 - TCSS Machined Covertec clip button
1 - TCSS Premium speaker
1 - Rebel lens holder and 8.7degree lens
1 - 1" x 32" LED White Translucent Thin blade (added 4' cellophane)

I have added a rough render of what I hope the saber will look like.
I have also added a quick render of an easy little mod to the Covertec clip to hold my kill key. When you unclip your saber and pull the saber away from your belt, the kill key will just pull right out (depending on its location on your saber). This will activate your electronics and also keep you from losing your kill key. You could use a thin chain, nylon cord, leather lacing, etc. to attach the covertec to the key. Just an idea I had.

Wired up the recharge port. Man! Grinding that faucet knob was painful.
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/recharge01.jpghttp://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/recharge02.jpg
Moved the wires on the soundboard from the bottom to the top of the PCB, took off the white connector, soldered in the clash sensor, connected all the (-). Does anyone else have that ??? attached to the bottom of their Anakin?
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/anakin01.jpghttp://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/anakin02.jpg

Having to work outside since I have no garage or a work area that I would want to throw metal shavings around in... really puts the brakes on your productivity. :(
I finally found a compression sink plug that I could use so I could sand down my sink tube. Messed up the fist angled cut on my sink tube and decided to use it as my brass overlay tube. Cut the second tube angle, painted and glued the pommel & connecting ring, and drilled & attached the 1.5"-to-MHS adapter.
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/cuttubes01.jpghttp://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/pommelglued01.jpg

Finally got a chance to work on my saber a little more. Not all sink tubes are created equal. After messing up the 2 that I originally bought from Lowes, I bought 2 more from Home Depot. They didn't fit over the 1.5"-to-MHS adapter. Back to Lowes for more sinktubes and a miter saw. Newly cut sinktubes and the sanded inner grip main body.
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/jul08_1.jpg
Printed out my templates to cut the sinktubes then used a glue stick to attach them securely.
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/jul08_2.jpg
Outter tube rough cut.
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/jul08_3.jpg
Partially cut brass shroud. I thought it would be easier to file these edges before making the final cuts and having to deal with a lot of thin metal. I think I am going to put an angle on the slots to match the 45 degree angle at the emitter. Outter tube sanded and test fit with inner grip tube. Rubberized poly washer grip added to outter tube.
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/jul08_6.jpg

Finished the brass overlay. Hand filed the slots. I need to figure out a softer lighting scheme to take pictures of shiny things.
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/update0714-01.jpghttp://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/update0714-02.jpg
Brass still needs it's final polishing. Inner grip needs masking and repainting. Outer grip needs a touch up. Still trying to finalize how to get the guts installed and stable.

While waiting for paint to dry on the grips, I have made a switch and accent LED holder from "ShapeLock" low temperature molding plastic. The plastic cylinder was part of the removable blade in the MR Anakin saber that was used to lock the blade into the hilt. The TCSS premium speaker literally snaps into it like it was made for it. I have cut groves in the sides so that the main LED wires can go past the speaker in a reverse speaker configuration.
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/update0716-01.jpghttp://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/update0716-02.jpg

I built a basic chassis to better organize my electronics. I used 1.5" wooden disks from the craft store which I sanded down, drilled and dremeled outwire and sound holes, and threaded holes for the #8-32 threaded rods. I will add another picture of the finished chassis as soon as I reorganize the guts.
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/update0718-01.jpg
Here are all the guts laid out roughly how they will be installed. The black thing middle/top is the white plastic switch and LED holder that I painted black. The switch and LED have quick connect plugs.
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/update0718-02.jpg
And finally my lightsaber is assembled!!
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/update0718-11.jpg
Here it is, with my dog, in a dimly lit room with flash and without.
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/update0718-06.jpg
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/update0718-07.jpg

I have hidden sound holes in the upper grip area under the two strips running down each side. I need to add more holes in the pommel around the recharge port.
I need to disassemble the guts because the clash sensor needs me to pound the hilt for it to work. It worked great before putting it in the hilt. And there is possibly a loose wire because sometimes it shuts off shortly after I turn it on.
I have a new 1" OD thinwalled trans white blade that I need to get about 5' of wrap into.
When I have all that completed I will post in the Gallery section.

Thanks for everyone's help and comments!!

[Rathan]

OK... camera, parts, and design .. check!
Now I just need the weather to clear up so I can start cutting outside. (No garage/work area but my dinning room table.)

[Crystal Chambers]

Nice render. Looks like you have some dremeling ahead of you though, just not so heavy on the fu..lol. Interesting use of layers too. Good luck!

[jjshumpert]

im lookin over your parts, and i got to thinkin... your mhs to sinktube adapter of course fits inside the 1.5 sink tube, and the 1.25 tube will fit inside the adapter so the lux end of your hilt is going to be very secure, but i was wondering what your plans where for span the gap between the tubes on your pommel end?

[Rathan]

The short tube will be on the inside so the thick end will be the pomel end. The red rubber washers will go between the two tubes and the covertec button will be threaded through both tubes locking them together.
There is a whole pile of other parts out of the picture that I have been playing around with like Legos to make sure everything will fit and be secure. I actually forgot to include the 3rd sink tube that I will be sanding down to the brass and cutting for the overlay. I am planning on using "Goop" glue and the covertec button to hold the overlay on.

[Rathan]

New render of "hopefully" what my saber will look like.
And a potentially BAD thing.
So as you can see from the parts photo, this is the Anakin 2005 with the replaceable blade. The silver connectors are a major pain so I unsoldered them and neatly connected all the correct wires together. This board has the brown wire as the + instead of the purple like most of the wiring diagrams I have seen. I of course shrinkwrapped the connectors because I wanted to see how everything will need to be cramed into the hilt. So... now I am taking everything back apart to figure out the LED issue. I am getting around 2.5v from the board to the quick connect for the LED.

http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/lightsaberrender1.jpg

[Jay-gon Jinn]

You can de-solder the clash sensor from the DIN connector and solder it directly to the board, like this:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/MR%20Sound%20Board%20Pictures/104_5629.jpg
I also de-soldered and removed the white plastic plug header from the board....makes it much easier to add the clash sensor this way. Then all you need to do is add a wire for the positive lead for your main led (you can fit the led wire and the wire from the clash senor in the hole at the same time) and add a "jumper" wire across the negatives. I do this by stripping a long section off the led negative lead and soldering it all the way across the negative pads.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/MR%20Sound%20Board%20Pictures/100_5894.jpg
The board ready to go:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/MR%20Sound%20Board%20Pictures/100_5893.jpg
Save a lot of hassle with that DIN plug, and makes it a lot easier to run wires for accent leds, because then you've got holes in the board to solder through for them. If you do this, though, all of your accent led's will come on at once, rather than in sequence.

Also, if you're limited for height for the board, you bend the clash sensor forward like this:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/MR%20Sound%20Board%20Pictures/100_7076.jpg

[Rathan]

Awesome Thanks! Just did it.
I actually just figured out what I did wrong. When I unsoldered the TCSS quick connect plugs I forgot that they wired wrong and had the pins reversed.

Updated build with new pics.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Cool, looks good! This is shaping up to be a very nice sinktube based saber!

[Rafalema]

What 3D program did you use to make those renders? Cause they look great.

Good luck with your build, Im sure it will be awesome!

[Rathan]

Thanks! I do some 3d modeling as a hobby. I used 3D Studio Max 2011.

[Rafalema]

Awesome. I do modeling as a hobby too! And I use 3D Studio Max 2010!

[Lendo Avery]

Looks good! I want to do a sink tube saber as my first build. Looks to be an economical way to start as opposed to using the MHS bodies/extensions, etc.

Keep us updated!

Lendo Avery

[vargose]

How are you going to secure the pommel? I used one of those faucet handles in a project of mine and I couldn't come up with a good way of attaching.

[Rathan]

How are you going to secure the pommel? I used one of those faucet handles in a project of mine and I couldn't come up with a good way of attaching.

I am going to glue the faucet handle to the screw-on connector "thingy" on the 1.25" sink extender. The 1.5" sink tube will not actually be held on by the connector but by the covertec clip screw and held snugly by those washers.
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/pommel001.jpg

The little lip that sticks out of the connector fits perfectly inside the faucet handle and gives a nice ring of surface area for some "Goop" glue.
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/pommel002.jpghttp://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/pommel003.jpg

The handle doesn't fit on the 1.5" connector.
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/pommel004.jpg

I am going to grind off some of the sharpish edges on the connector and maybe spray it with the Krylon shiny metalic silver or maybe brass.

Do those connectors shine up nice because straight from the store they have that kinda milky aluminum look that just doesnt match all the chrome?

Hmm, guess it is time to clip my nails. :(

[Ingchao]

Ya might want to try some epoxy on that pommel, I don't think regular glue is strong enough.
Gorilla makes a good epoxy that sets in about 5 minutes.

[Rathan]

Hmmm, the "Goop" is supposed to be good for metal to metal.
I will use the Goop and if the pommel comes off I will use that epoxy.
Thanks for the info.

[jjshumpert]

not much luck with polishing the ring, its galvanized and cant be polished out to look like aluminum or brass because of the materials used in casting the part, go with paint for a uniform look between the two parts

[vargose]

Interesting way to connect the pommel. That gives me an idea on how to connect mine. I would probably throw a big washer between the ring and the extension pipe and put a bolt through both the pommel and the washer. I would also paint the ring black. I also thought of another option, but its harder to explain.

[Rathan]

Cool! Helping/inspiring and I haven't evening built a saber yet. :D

More building will be done this weekend.

[Rathan]

Updated build thread.

[vargose]

You might want to put your buttons in the 1.5, intead of cutting a window and putting them in the 1.25. Just safety wise.

[Lendo Avery]

Does that 1.5" MHS to ST adapter fit over the 1.25" ST snugly?

[Rathan]

You might want to put your buttons in the 1.5, intead of cutting a window and putting them in the 1.25. Just safety wise.

"Safety wise"?? I'm not sure I understand what you mean.


Does that 1.5" MHS to ST adapter fit over the 1.25" ST snugly?

Yes, it fits very snugly. It is the perfect thickness to fit between the 1.25" and the 1.5". Tim does an excellent job machining these parts.

[vargose]

having a exposed edge of recently cut, then metal where your thumb will often be.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Moved the wires on the soundboard from the bottom to the top of the PCB, took off the white connector, soldered in the clash sensor, connected all the (-). Does anyone else have that ??? attached to the bottom of their Anakin?
http://www.rathan.com/lightsabers/lightsaber01/anakin02.jpg


Yup...I've seen those on that model of the Anakin board before...it's a capacitor that on later models is attached to the top of the board.

[Lendo Avery]

Great to hear! Will help w/my sink tube saber design!



Yes, it fits very snugly. It is the perfect thickness to fit between the 1.25" and the 1.5". Tim does an excellent job machining these parts.

[Rathan]

having a exposed edge of recently cut, then metal where your thumb will often be.

Ah, I see what you are talking about. That wont be an issue since I will be sanding down all the edges nice and smooth.
I sanded down the ends that I cut using a flap wheel and they are perfectly safe.


Yup...I've seen those on that model of the Anakin board before...it's a capacitor that on later models is attached to the top of the board.

OK, thanks. I was just wondering if my board had maybe been repaired or modified.

[Lendo Avery]

Any more progress on this?

[Rathan]

Any more progress on this?

So many things working against me.
1. I don't have a garage/basement/workarea so I have to work out on my uncovered patio...which means getting anything done is weather dependent. LOTS of rain in Chicago over the last 2 weeks.
2. My lack of experience with the dremel ... one slip and I have to redo the main chrome tube.
3. Painting the plastic slip-rings on the inside tube BEFORE sliding the outside tube on ... just don't work. I am going to have to sand them down and paint them later after most of the assembly and a lot of making tape.
4. Parents are coming in from out of state for a week long visit on Monday and staying in my 2nd bedroom. So, lots of crazy cleaning and moving of things in the "storage room".
Rain is supposed to be letting up tomorrow so hopefully I will get some work done and pictures posted.

[Rathan]

Finally, an update. (added 4 pics)
I am looking to get this finished this weekend.

[Obi-Ben]

Wow, I am really impressed. For someone with no dremel cutting experience, you look like an experienced pro. Excellent work!

[kyncaid]

Awesome first saber

[cardcollector]

Nice job! what program did you use for the templates?

[Rathan]

Wow, I am really impressed. For someone with no dremel cutting experience, you look like an experienced pro. Excellent work!

Thanks! There were several mistakes that basically came down to .. I don't have a real workbench, just the small foldaway kind. With nothing to brace yourself against the dremel can run wild on you. I am a very fast learner and my dremeling skill is coming along in leaps and bounds.


Awesome first saber

Thanks! I wouldn't call it awesome but it is turning out pretty good.


Nice job! what program did you use for the templates?

Thanks! I used Photoshop CS4 for the templates. I took a piece of printer paper, wrapped it around the sinktube nice and snug, marked were the edges crossed, then laid it out flat and measured the marks. This gave me the width of the custom document size.
These were VERY rough designs because I haven't use a dremel before and I wasn't sure how much extra the blade chewed up or how sloppy my lines would be.

[Rathan]

Updated build. Finished overlay.

[Rathan]

Completed!! (for the most part)
Still have a few things to fix but over all I am very happy with how it looks.

[Lendo Avery]

Looks very good! Makes me want to go out and finally buy my sink tubes.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Completed!! (for the most part)
Still have a few things to fix but over all I am very happy with how it looks.

Well done! Very well done! Now build another one! ;) :)

[Rathan]

Well done! Very well done! Now build another one! ;) :)

Thanks!
I already am. PVC saber for my friend's 10 year old son's birthday.