PDA

View Full Version : Basic Saber Build list of parts



Lord Dottore Matto
10-31-2008, 04:13 PM
Okay, My head is ready to explode reading the posts by lazy people who want to be spoonfed, so I'll tell ya what I'm gonna do (no, not take out Mafia hits on all of you), I'm gonna SPELL it out right here!

If you follow this tutorial, you WILL end up with a BASIC working LED MHS lightsaber!

Step 1:

Choose a LED blade holder from this link--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Blade-Holders-C32.aspx

Make sure to select it WITHOUT a heatsink module!!!! (you can buy it with or without, but you will be getting one in step 5.)

Step 2:

Buy this blade retention screw--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-12-thumb-screw--P111.aspx

Or this one: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-38-Stainless-Steel-thumb-screw-P538.aspx

It can be cut later if it is too long for your particular blade holder.

Step 3:

Choose a Hilt (style 1 thru 4) from this link--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Center-Sections-C33.aspx

These have pre-drilled switch holes and female threads at both ends. It is the "handle of your saber". Don't get bogged down with chokes or extentions or any of that crap! We are going SIMPLE here!

Step 4:

Choose a pommel, one insert and one clip from this link--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pommels-C34.aspx

This will be the "end cap" assembly of your saber. Just pick the ones that you like (one of each).

Step 5:

Choose this basic LED Module --->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Rebel-Star-LED-MHS-Heatsink-Module-P653.aspx

If you chose a RED or Orange LED, you will need this buckpuck---> http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/BuckPuck-700mA-4-wire-P363.aspx

If you chose any other color, you need this one---> http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/BuckPuck-1000mA-4-wire-P364.aspx

You will need a 7.4V battery pack to power either of the above buck pucks. You can use something like this---> http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74v-Li-ion-1050mAh-14650-Battery-Pack-P759.aspx

Finally, you are going to need this switch---> http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Push-onpush-off-switch-with-black-button-P40.aspx

This kit has ALL of the BASIC electronics that you need! Don't get all crazy with extras! Build this one first and you can add sound to it when you know enough to do so!

Step 6:

Buy a 36" blade, this is the best one for a beginner--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LED-Corbin-style-Show-blade-1-OD--P227.aspx

It is bright and YES, you can battle with it!

Step 7:

Tools you MUST have to do this project include:

1. Soldering Iron (Here is a link to a nice basic kit with EVERYTHING you will need!)--->http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062758

2. Heatshrink (1 foot is more than enough)--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/18-Adhesive-lined-heatshrink-tubing-P32.aspx

3. PPE (personal protective eyewear), goggles, etc. You don't want to burn your eyeballs out with flying solder do you!

4. Drill and tap set--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-Tap-drill-set-P52.aspx

Used to drill and tap the hole for the blade set screw. BTW, you need a hand drill too!

5. Tap handle--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Tap-handle-P54.aspx

Used to hold the tap while you tap the hole that you drilled for the blade retention screw.

Step 8:

Order all the "stuff" from steps 1-7

Step 9:

Don't visit the forum again until you get all of your stuff in the mail, you'll just confuse yourself!

Step 10:

Follow the basic MHS assembly tutorial--->http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=326

Drill and tap your blade retention screw hole and add the screw!--->http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=5724

Step 11:

take a few digital pictures and upload them to--->http://www.photobucket.com

and then post them here for all of us to see!

Step 12:

Read, Read, Read and in no time you will be building more advanced sabers! (and the questions that you ask won't get you flayed alive!)

kaptenfisk
03-30-2012, 06:45 AM
I bought everything you told me to, but in the tutorial it says i need so much other stuff.
So to everyone wo is new to this, don't buy things that he says you need, you need so much more..

Jay-gon Jinn
03-30-2012, 11:02 AM
I bought everything you told me to, but in the tutorial it says i need so much other stuff.
So to everyone wo is new to this, don't buy things that he says you need, you need so much more..Please be aware of a topics age before posting...this was posted 3 1/2 years ago, and as such, is likely out of date, since the parts listed may no longer be available in the store, or are no longer necessary, or have simply been redesigned/changed. Heatsinks are no longer included with blade holders, and nylon screws are not necessary with the new design for the heatsinks.

Lord Dottore Matto
03-30-2012, 12:24 PM
I bought everything you told me to, but in the tutorial it says i need so much other stuff.
So to everyone wo is new to this, don't buy things that he says you need, you need so much more..

Yes, had you used the tutorial when it was written you would have purchased everything you needed. Since you used it 4 years later, things have changed a bit. The only thing missing is the electronics. The clue to you should have been when the link directed you to the home page rather than the electronics kit ;)


BTW, the links have now been updated. Enjoy. If things change in the next 4 years, hopefully someone will not leave a snarky remark about how cruddy the time that I gave freely to help others was.

kaptenfisk
03-30-2012, 12:48 PM
Yeah, sorry about that.
I just did what you said in Step 9:
"Don't visit the forum again until you get all of your stuff in the mail, you'll just confuse yourself"
>.<

Lord Dottore Matto
03-30-2012, 11:42 PM
Yeah, sorry about that.
I just did what you said in Step 9:
"Don't visit the forum again until you get all of your stuff in the mail, you'll just confuse yourself"
>.<

LOL, well at least it is all updated now. Sorry it didn't work for you.

TheRockman
04-06-2012, 08:12 AM
I, for one, appreciate the "spoon feed". Even though I'm drawing alot of inspiration from other threads, this is a great place to start (even better with the updated info). So thanks for taking time to update (even if it was prompted by laziness).

J-door8
05-23-2012, 08:45 PM
I am sorry, but I am completely new here. I'm not sure what I need to buy when it comes to step 5, Do i need to buy a custom modular wiring kit if i buy the LED Module?

DarkarNights
05-29-2012, 02:31 PM
I am sorry, but I am completely new here. I'm not sure what I need to buy when it comes to step 5, Do i need to buy a custom modular wiring kit if i buy the LED Module?

Yes, the link in the original post is outdated, this link http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-BuckPuck--P748.aspx is the Modular Wiring Buck Puck that you will need to run the LED Module. It has quick connectors for all connections except for a resistor (only need a resistor for illuminated switches/accent LEDs). Make sure you get the right mA output for your particular LED setup.

lindsayfox
06-06-2012, 01:04 PM
So I am new and I am just wanting to build a hilt for a costume. I don't know what all I need to do this. I have the outer parts in my cart to make it look the way I want. I just don't know what I need to do as far as inner workings. I also want some form of end cap for were the blade goes (Non-visible) so that I don't look like I'm carrying around a hallow hilt. Any suggestions?:confused:

Darth Havoc
07-20-2012, 02:37 AM
So I am new and I am just wanting to build a hilt for a costume. I don't know what all I need to do this. I have the outer parts in my cart to make it look the way I want. I just don't know what I need to do as far as inner workings. I also want some form of end cap for were the blade goes (Non-visible) so that I don't look like I'm carrying around a hallow hilt. Any suggestions?:confused:

Just in case your still waiting for an answer here...
Go to:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pommels-C34.aspx
And pick out an MPS INSERT that you like [that is, if your using an MPS pummel.], to cap the pummel end.
If your using a standered Hilt, you can probobly use this:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-Standard-Style-Latching-Switches-P746.aspx
In order to fill the button slot on hilt. [Or if your using extension peaces to form your hilt, you can just find a button looking object to glue on, since it doesnt need to actually work.]
As for the Blade holder side... Check to see if it automaticaly added the "Heatsink $8" to your shopping cart when you chose the blade holder. That should make a satisfactory cap on that end.
If it didnt add one, go here to get one:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-new-style-Heat-Sink-P622.aspx

-Darth Havoc
"Just try to picture activating a lightsaber WITH OUT the sound effects in your head... It just CANT be done!"

Jedi Master Tel Phoenix
09-27-2012, 07:30 PM
Just wanted to say, this sirte is pretty great. I haven't bought anything yet, but from shopping around, this site is pretty good for a beginner like me.

Lord Dottore Matto
09-27-2012, 11:43 PM
Just wanted to say, this sirte is pretty great. I haven't bought anything yet, but from shopping around, this site is pretty good for a beginner like me.

Thank you...looks like it is time for another update to this thread. I will try to get to it this weekend.

Lord Dottore Matto
09-30-2012, 12:29 AM
Thank you...looks like it is time for another update to this thread. I will try to get to it this weekend.

Current as of 10-1-12

RenegadeFury
10-03-2012, 06:43 AM
I just wanted to say THANK YOU for the information here. I had an idea for a saber years ago that I never pursued because A) the tech wasn't really quite there at the time and B) expense and C) I felt it would have taken me too long to figure out the electronics. Looks like I'm out of excuses now! The dream shall become a reality. :)

potterpanda
11-28-2012, 04:33 PM
How do you know which size blade to get for your blade holder? 1" or 3/4" ???

Jay-gon Jinn
11-28-2012, 05:04 PM
All of the blade holders in the store are machined to hold 1" blades. If you want to use another size smaller than that, you'll need to find an adaptor.

potterpanda
11-28-2012, 05:08 PM
THANK YOU so so so so much. I'm building a surprise lightsaber for a Christmas present with NO CLUE what I'm doing and have had to teach myself EVERYTHING. I have not left my computer in 3 days......but out of all of my friends I'm probably the only female who can now understand any of this!

jcook1023
01-28-2013, 11:14 PM
hey just wondering, using the basic wiring kit, how do i add sound? i'm looking at the MWS Pre-Wired Nano Biscotte Sound Module, but that seems like it has leads to go to all of the other components, but these already exist using the basic wiring kit, no? could i just use the basic wiring kit + http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-and-2x-AA-battery-holder-P766.aspx + http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Nano-Biscotte-Sound-Module-V1-P806.aspx? or to save some cash, i have the soundboard from an Anakin Skywalker Ultimate FX LED lightsaber from walmart; could that just be wired in using its battery pack and speaker? or if not, using the above wiring kit + those 2 links, would i also need a buckpuck or anything else?

kpb17
03-01-2013, 03:42 PM
A couple quick questions, I'm a newbie and I plan on doing this over the summer, and if I ordered the parts from the links (main body style 2, blade style holder 2, pommel style 3 v1 if it matters) and followed the tutorial...
A-Would it then be possible to add in sound after?
B- If so, how much more difficult would it be, how much would it cost, and what parts would I need to add?
Thanks for the help.

Lord Dottore Matto
03-03-2013, 02:04 AM
A couple quick questions, I'm a newbie and I plan on doing this over the summer, and if I ordered the parts from the links (main body style 2, blade style holder 2, pommel style 3 v1 if it matters) and followed the tutorial...
A-Would it then be possible to add in sound after?
B- If so, how much more difficult would it be, how much would it cost, and what parts would I need to add?
Thanks for the help.

A...this is an easy one to answer. Yes.

B...Part of this is easy and part of it isn't...you would tear it down and re-build it, but that isn't hard. Cost and parts...there are so many different combinations that I (nor anyone else) can't answer this. You will understand why once you have built a few. But, you could literally do it with just a Nano Biscotti and a new switch on the most basic level.

Invader Grim
04-27-2013, 08:07 PM
I'm new to saber building and have decided to use this basic set up as my first attempt and will build upon it late. However, I want to use 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Amber Ring Switch. Will the resister recommended for the red led saber also work for this switch or will i need to add another resister?

If so what resister should I go with?

Lord Dottore Matto
04-29-2013, 11:40 PM
I'm new to saber building and have decided to use this basic set up as my first attempt and will build upon it late. However, I want to use 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Amber Ring Switch. Will the resister recommended for the red led saber also work for this switch or will i need to add another resister?

If so what resister should I go with?

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/wiringbuilder/wiring.aspx

Under the resistor tab, you can put in the red Illuminated switch (same as you would use for the amber), battery set up...click "find resistor" and voila' ...the resistor shall be revealed ;)

metalman
10-18-2013, 02:47 PM
Okay, My head is ready to explode reading the posts by lazy people who want to be spoonfed, so I'll tell ya what I'm gonna do (no, not take out Mafia hits on all of you), I'm gonna SPELL it out right here!

If you follow this tutorial, you WILL end up with a BASIC working LED MHS lightsaber!

Step 1:

Choose a LED blade holder from this link--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Blade-Holders-C32.aspx

It comes with the blade holder and make sure to select it with a heatsink module!!!! (you can buy it with or without, but you need it 100% for sure)

Step 2:

Buy this blade retention screw--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-12-thumb-screw--P111.aspx

Or this one: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-x-38-Stainless-Steel-thumb-screw-P538.aspx

It can be cut later if it is too long for your particular blade holder.

Step 3:

Choose a Hilt (style 1 thru 4) from this link--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Center-Sections-C33.aspx

These have pre-drilled switch holes and female threads at both ends. It is the "handle of your saber". Don't get bogged down with chokes or extentions or any of that crap! We are going SIMPLE here!

Step 4:

Choose a pommel, one insert and one clip from this link--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pommels-C34.aspx

This will be the "end cap" assembly of your saber. Just pick the ones that you like (one of each).

Step 5:

Choose this basic wiring kit --->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Build-Your-Own-Seoul-P4-Electronics-Kit-P469.aspx

This kit has ALL of the BASIC electronics that you need! Don't get all crazy with extras! Build this one first and you can add sound or a driver to it when you know enough to do so!

Step 6:

Buy a 36" blade, this is the best one for a beginner--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LED-Corbin-style-Show-blade-1-OD--P227.aspx

It is bright and YES, you can battle with it!

Step 7:

Tools you MUST have to do this project include:

1. Soldering Iron (Here is a link to a nice basic kit with EVERYTHING you will need!)--->http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062758

2. Heatshrink (1 foot is more than enough)--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/18-Adhesive-lined-heatshrink-tubing-P32.aspx

3. PPE (personal protective eyewear), goggles, etc. You don't want to burn your eyeballs out with flying solder do you!

4. Drill and tap set--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-Tap-drill-set-P52.aspx

Used to drill and tap the hole for the blade set screw. BTW, you need a hand drill too!

5. Tap handle--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Tap-handle-P54.aspx

Used to hold the tap while you tap the hole that you drilled for the blade retention screw.

Step 8:

Order all the "stuff" from steps 1-7

Step 9:

Don't visit the forum again until you get all of your stuff in the mail, you'll just confuse yourself!

Step 10:

Follow the basic MHS assembly tutorial--->http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=326

Drill and tap your blade retention screw hole and add the screw!--->http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=5724

Step 11:

take a few digital pictures and upload them to--->http://www.photobucket.com

and then post them here for all of us to see!

Step 12:

Read, Read, Read and in no time you will be building more advanced sabers! (and the questions that you ask won't get you flayed alive!)


Hi,
Is this everything?

Led module

switch

buck puck

sound module

and the battery pack

I plugged everything in and it does not even work. =/
(Yes, I put the two AA Batteries in lol)
I feel real bad about it too...
I kindly would like some help please!

Thank You So Much!

Lord Dottore Matto
10-24-2013, 11:46 PM
That list is for a basic light up "stunt" saber (no sound). Did you follow the tutorial? 2 batteries? for which soundboard? what kind of batteries? If you got a Nano Biscotti or Petit Crouton and are trying to get it running with two alkaline batteries, then that is your problem. If you had followed this tutorial, it would be working...and how do I know you didn't? You are asking about a buckpuck and a soundboard, neither of which are included in the tutorial.

rhenry501
12-06-2013, 03:07 PM
Thank you for this article. I have a question regarding speakers. I would like to run two. One at 1.5 w and the additional speaker at 2 w. I'm running an NB with a rechargeble Lipo. What would be the best way to achieve this?

Thanks Bob

ilpostino
01-16-2014, 11:04 AM
Thanks for this informative thread.


Yes, the link in the original post is outdated, this link http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MWS-BuckPuck--P748.aspx is the Modular Wiring Buck Puck that you will need to run the LED Module. It has quick connectors for all connections except for a resistor (only need a resistor for illuminated switches/accent LEDs). Make sure you get the right mA output for your particular LED setup.

I had planned to use the 1000 mA buch puck (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/BuckPuck-1000mA-4-wire-P364.aspx) but is it easier to connect everything (soundboard, button(s), LED) with the buckpuck you are linking to?

NeoGojira
01-18-2014, 07:53 PM
Im new to this, and I love the post one this. I used most of this , but for my first I picked a Sink tube with a MHS to 1.5" Adapter. Now I may be asking in the wrong place about this, but what is the best way to add the adapter to the sink tube? in the photos I do not see any screws or Rivets in it. If there is a video or a Forum, please let me know. Thank you

Sliphe
02-01-2014, 09:11 AM
I'm new to this "world", my question is if I can use this guide, or it's a little outdated...?(or has it been updated?)
Thanks! :)

Dr@c
02-13-2014, 02:24 AM
I would have the same question is this guide still usable? Thanks

Lord Dottore Matto
02-17-2014, 12:14 AM
I updated it in October 2013. It is useable.

Dr@c
02-17-2014, 02:50 AM
That's great thank you :D


I updated it in October 2013. It is useable.

Lord Dottore Matto
02-17-2014, 11:25 PM
That's great thank you :D

You are welcome :)

LuxXoTtiCcA
02-23-2014, 04:22 AM
You are welcome :)

After searching I think a couple of months a site that is up to date. Thank God!!! :)

Lord Dottore Matto
02-26-2014, 01:37 AM
After searching I think a couple of months a site that is up to date. Thank God!!! :)

I try ;)

Wynner
05-07-2014, 02:14 AM
Dear everyone,
First of all let me thank Lord Dottore Matto for this fantastic "beginners guide".
I'm new to the custom lightsaber world and I finally decided to build my first saber.
I'm from Italy and I have to be extremely sure of what I'm going to buy 'cause the shipping costs are very high.
I'll post my saber parts list on the appropriate thread but, till then, I need to ask the big favor to update the list you made in this thread because the "basic wiring kit" is apparently disappear.
Thank you for your patience and for the good work!
Ciao! :)

Khellyndros
06-12-2014, 09:00 PM
I clicked the link for the "basic wire kit" and it just takes me to the main Custom Saber site. Is there an updated list of parts?

Lord Dottore Matto
06-22-2014, 02:39 AM
I clicked the link for the "basic wire kit" and it just takes me to the main Custom Saber site. Is there an updated list of parts?

All fixed.

San Tala
07-15-2014, 12:52 AM
Shouldn't the first post include a battery pack of some kind? Or have I been staring at threads for so long that nothing is sinking in any more and I'm missing it?

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-15-2014, 06:21 AM
Shouldn't the first post include a battery pack of some kind? Or have I been staring at threads for so long that nothing is sinking in any more and I'm missing it?

You are correct, the list has been fixed. It was probably accidentally deleted in the last edit.

San Tala
07-15-2014, 09:02 AM
You are correct, the list has been fixed. It was probably accidentally deleted in the last edit.

I think I already know the answer to this but is there an alternative to that battery pack? I live in Europe so it can't be shipped to me.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-15-2014, 09:06 AM
Sure, You can either buy something in Europe, or use something that would give you at least 5 Volts, which is what the BuckPcuk needs to run. You could always get batteries from JQ Sabers in the UK.

San Tala
07-15-2014, 10:16 AM
Sure, You can either buy something in Europe, or use something that would give you at least 5 Volts, which is what the BuckPcuk needs to run. You could always get batteries from JQ Sabers in the UK.

Thank you kindly, getting pretty excited about building my own saber now, it will be my first saber. Just need to learn how to connect up an LED driver for a nice shimmer effect and I'll be ready to dive in (and make a few mistakes I'm sure)

Khaleesi
12-31-2014, 02:50 PM
Hallo
I'm from South Africa
I am working on "Shaka" its an Assegai Light Saber in Orange/Amber - 20.15" hilt with 30" blade (I know Assegai is traditionally 13"" blade and 40" hilt)
Ive just ordered the hilt but no electronics yet, that I'll get later when the budget allows but reading through everything I know what to order just to get the lights on.
But sounds would be awesome, just would it possible to get a item list of the essentials because I just like some Standard sound fonts and clash on flash (Yellow flash) - this would be a cosplay display Saber (No dueling)

P.S some credit if somebody use the Assegaai Idea as ive not seen any on Youtube yet, an no this isnt a light pike its too short ;p

Khaleesi
01-19-2015, 04:09 PM
OK got my hilt parts in the mail today, it only took 16days 4/5 of which was customs in South Africa. Now to start Modding.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
01-19-2015, 04:30 PM
OK got my hilt parts in the mail today, it only took 16days 4/5 of which was customs in South Africa. Now to start Modding.

Please make your own thread for your build. Thanks.

Jedi_Roz
02-12-2015, 03:54 PM
Another question, what is the difference between the heat sink module parts for the standard hilt at the custom saber shop that you ca order with the blade holder and the rebel star heat sink module and do you need both or only one piece? Thank you.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
02-12-2015, 04:04 PM
Another question, what is the difference between the heat sink module parts for the standard hilt at the custom saber shop that you ca order with the blade holder and the rebel star heat sink module and do you need both or only one piece? Thank you.

You only need one. Some order just the LED and heatsink without a blade holder.

Jedi_Roz
02-13-2015, 02:19 PM
So one is for holding a carbon fiber blade and the other is just for the LED light? You cannot use both?

Forgetful Jedi Knight
02-13-2015, 02:33 PM
So one is for holding a carbon fiber blade and the other is just for the LED light? You cannot use both?

Carbon fiber blade??? You would need some kind of adapter for that, plus it's not meant to be used with LEDs.

Jedi_Roz
02-13-2015, 02:50 PM
Ok I just realized what I said. Had a brain goof. Thanks! I see what it is now.

obi2kenobi14
03-30-2015, 04:30 PM
Hello i am new here, but have been reading the forums and am really interested in building my first saber. i will follow the instructions on this thread but have a question. what resistor should i use instead of the buck puck. i am on a strict budget.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
03-30-2015, 04:37 PM
Welcome to the Forums.

This should help you with your resistor questions:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?17109-Tutorial-FJK-s-quot-Down-and-Dirty-quot-guide-to-Ohm-s-Law

obi2kenobi14
03-30-2015, 04:55 PM
thanks fjk , but i am still kind of a n00b and was looking for a more specific answer like, if i have a 2 AA battery holder and i want to power a rebel star led mhsv1 (lime) what resistor could i use instead. thank you in advanced

Forgetful Jedi Knight
03-30-2015, 04:57 PM
This is a DIY site. We give you the know how and you are expected to try to solve the problem for yourself. ;)

obi2kenobi14
03-30-2015, 05:04 PM
well, ok thanks anyways ! :)

obi2kenobi14
04-02-2015, 10:02 AM
thank you for this it helped a lot!

Bethor
09-30-2015, 01:01 PM
Is it possible to use another switch like the 12mm Anti Vandal Momentary Red Ring Switch when utilizing this guide?
If so does anything else change like the holes in the hilt or extra wires?
Thank you for taking the time to help me.

Greenie
09-30-2015, 01:39 PM
LDM made that parts list seven years ago. A lot has changed since then. There are many options available now
More research required :D

Bethor
09-30-2015, 02:05 PM
Bummer...

I have browsed around a bit but didn't see any other guides.
I'm sure I can figure it out if I had a buy this or that type of guide is there anything else like that?
I don't need sound, I do want a heavy blade so i can hit other sabers with it. I would love to do purple but I can do red.
If you could point me in the right direction that would be awesome!

Thanks again

Greenie
09-30-2015, 03:38 PM
Everything you need to know is available here on the forums. Read the threads, check out the gallery, and make use of the MHS builder (if you haven't already). Most definitely watch Madcow's tutorial videos......he will show you the way ;)
Oh, and welcome to the forums
MTFBWY :mrgreen:

Wicketno
10-16-2015, 08:25 AM
Green Cree XP-E2 CopperNova
12mm Anti Vandal Momentary Green Ring Switch
MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 5
8-32 x .3" thumb screw
MPS Pommel style 3 v1
MPS Clip
MPS Insert style 5
BuckPuck 1000mA 4-wire
Hilt style 2
Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module

Here's my build list. What am i missing?

libs101
10-28-2015, 02:23 AM
Hello, I'm looking at a hard saber build, well not really a saber, I want to make 2 arnis/escrama sticks. They are 24" long each including the hilt and looking at 3/4" thinkness at the most. Problem is finding blades, LED/electronics, battery holder, etc...that will fit. I want full blown sound/clash and 70% of the hilt is glowing also like Starkiller's Lightsabers (clone). http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Starkiller's_lightsabers Anyone with ideas?

Greenie
10-28-2015, 06:18 AM
Welcome to the forums. That maybe a challenge too far, 3/4" will not be big enough to fit the various electronics required
You may need to check out the dimensions of parts and then find a hilt to fit around whatever you need
The best of luck to you and MTFBWY :mrgreen:

Timanator
11-28-2015, 09:14 AM
If you goto Step 3

Step 3:

Choose a Hilt (style 1 thru 4) from this link--->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ce...tions-C33.aspx

These have pre-drilled switch holes and female threads at both ends. It is the "handle of your saber". Don't get bogged down with chokes or extentions or any of that crap! We are going SIMPLE here!

All of the Hilt has options for style of holes to drill for specific switch. Which option would you pick?

Silver Serpent
11-28-2015, 11:41 AM
Get the hole type that matches the switch you want. If you're going for a 16mm AV switch, you can get the 16mm or 16mm recessed hole.

Greenie
11-28-2015, 02:29 PM
Hello Timanator, welcome to the forums. You may wanna look at this :mrgreen:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?17320-Video-Choosing-the-right-switch-and-switch-hole

Timanator
11-30-2015, 10:37 AM
Hello Timanator, welcome to the forums. You may wanna look at this :mrgreen:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?17320-Video-Choosing-the-right-switch-and-switch-hole\

Thanks Greenie, I found the videos and Tim's channel on Youtube, they are awesome!

vaziofeup
12-01-2015, 08:37 AM
Hi everyone, I've been searching around in the past few days.
I'm really excited to started building something, but on the shop there no hilt bodies available, is this normal? Is there any way I can get started?

Greenie
12-01-2015, 09:10 AM
This hobby has become very popular lately. Parts are selling as fast as they can be made. I would suggest you make a definitive list for your build, then buy parts as and when they're available
Yes. I know what you're gonna say about international shipping, but unfortunately we're all in the same boat. Keep checking the store and the forum for stock updates and don't let these little set backs put you off. It's great fun to build your own saber but it takes patience :D

Welcome to the party and MTFBWY :mrgreen:

greyfox
01-02-2016, 06:40 PM
I tried to get the parts together for a lightsaber on customsabershop but almost all of the blade holders are out of stock...what can I do about that?

Forgetful Jedi Knight
01-02-2016, 06:43 PM
I tried to get the parts together for a lightsaber on customsabershop but almost all of the blade holders are out of stock...what can I do about that?

Several were added back into stock today. You will just have to keep watching as items are produced, they'll be put into stock.

greyfox
01-02-2016, 06:46 PM
Thank you! Kinda makes me think that its hard to get all the parts in one delivery since many parts seem to be out of stock. Well i think I just have to keep an eye on it to find all the needed/desired parts to be in stock at the same time.

Cire Yeldarb
01-04-2016, 12:19 PM
Yup, its definitely all about patience nowadays with the super-increased demand recently

TRON1160
01-17-2016, 07:50 PM
So, question. Would you recommend just making a list of all the parts you will need, and ordering them as they come back into stock, as opposed to waiting for the chance that all the parts you'll need happen to come into stock at once?

darth_chasm
01-17-2016, 08:00 PM
So, question. Would you recommend just making a list of all the parts you will need, and ordering them as they come back into stock, as opposed to waiting for the chance that all the parts you'll need happen to come into stock at once?

Welcome aboard.

Currently, I would recommend this. The holidays, all the way back to Halloween even, combined with the hype from the new film has had a significant impact on the hobby. You may be able to get most, but getting all parts at once is a long shot. Possible, but a long shot.

TheBaconWizard
01-22-2016, 01:05 AM
Hi there.. 'nother newbie to mollycoddle here!

I have no problem with patience, but I do take issue with adding international postage (UK) to every item I order separately, some of which I may later want to send back for work to be done. It could easily double the cost of the build.

We need a solution. I doubt Tim (It's Tim isn't it?) will want the headache of this, but ideally we need a labelled customer box kept in a dark and guarded vault at a secret location in which purchased parts can be left, and more added to it, until it's all ready to go in a single shipment. This would also mean that services could be added to already purchased parts sitting in said box (eg, I have a graflex blade holder in my box, and now my design has moved-along, I will need a hole drilling and tapping and then for it to be all powder-coated in transparent arse-biscuit gold please)

This would also enable people via the forums to help each other out easily. If i have the pommel you need and it's out of stock, but I won't be needing it for ages or was reconsidering the design, then a deal could be done.

I would suggest that there be a sell-back service to shop for a 10% fee.. so if someone changes their mind and wants to sell their brand-new but 2-month stored part back to TCSS, then they can, but TCSS takes a fee for not having the part available in stock in the meantime, and for the service of finding it in your pile and moving it back into stock. This could be quite a nice little earner actually, would soon encourage proper planning as people rapidly lose money by changing their mind too frequently.

The box could even be rented space: free for however long seems reasonable to accumulate most of a saber's basic bits, but $x per month thereafter and paid in advance, or it must be shipped. The shop might wish to waive this fee on occasion: "Dude, I have a customer who'se pestering my for a part you have in your box and I know you're a few weeks away from shipping it all.. feel like helping us out? Consider rental fees waived, and the part will be replaced in X days"

Thoughts?

Cire Yeldarb
01-22-2016, 03:55 PM
Thats not a bad idea actually, just a headache like you said to manage

Oldpcgamer
01-29-2016, 09:14 AM
I just picked up an Acolyte hilt from Saberforge... and yes it took a long time to get to me ... but its very sweet. I am trying to figure out what parts I need to add an LED... and I can see not see a definitive list of parts (currently available) that will fit my saber hilt. If I buy an LED... do I have to get a heat sink? should I just buy the LED module and connect it to a buck buck? what about the off and odd switch? What about a wiring diagram?

Thanks in advance for direction...

bobbyp46
03-13-2016, 05:42 AM
Do you have the wire digagram for manor bascottie sound boars

GaleForceEight
03-29-2016, 08:10 AM
New to the saber scene here, and first post (eek!) I don't want to upset the powers that be, but the logistical/supply situation especially with regards to international shipping seems a bit ridiculous to say the least!

As someone who would love to be a customer some things that almost Force (no pun intended) people to look elsewhere for their wants are firstly that products are unavailable which pretty much seems to be most things in the TCSS catalogue, secondly no indication beyond "as soon as we can" as to when stock will become available. The third factor is shipping costs that cumulatively make piecemeal purchases for projects due to stock (or lack thereof) issues prohibitively expensive.

One solution would be to have a UK 'warehouse' so that components could be shipped in bulk and distributed out from a UK hub without having the inflated costs of individual orders having to come across the pond. If any of the powers that be want to have a chat about doing this (they may not want to go down the direction of having a UK/European distributor for whatever reason) it could open up their products to a larger customer base that is being cut out by the reasons being given above; and it would be an interesting project to try to make it work.

GaleForceEight
03-29-2016, 09:23 AM
I just picked up an Acolyte hilt from Saberforge... and yes it took a long time to get to me ... but its very sweet. I am trying to figure out what parts I need to add an LED... and I can see not see a definitive list of parts (currently available) that will fit my saber hilt. If I buy an LED... do I have to get a heat sink? should I just buy the LED module and connect it to a buck buck? what about the off and odd switch? What about a wiring diagram?

Thanks in advance for direction...

I've spent a while browsing the store recently so I may be able to help you - the LED Module (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Rebel-Star-LED-MHS-Heatsink-Module-P653.aspx) comes with the housing, lens, emitter, thermal tape, and prewired to a quick release plug. You would also need the buck puck, a latching switch, and a battery pack. As I recall, the battery pack should be the 7.4v one and the buck puck is a constant current regulator so you need to choose the one to match your LED selection (short wavelength emitters - red end of the spectrum - will often require less power than the long wavelength green and blue emitters).

One thing concerns me though - will the TCSS module fit the dimensions of the SaberForge hilt?

Greenie
03-29-2016, 02:19 PM
FYI. JQ Sabers are the UK company that bulk orders from TCSS. They have to cover shipping costs but overall it's cheaper and easier than international shipping and UK customs. However, they also have to wait for TCSS to make parts. Interest in this hobby has blown up over the last year so much that they are still catching up. Check the TCSS FB page for stock updates. :mrgreen:

GaleForceEight
03-30-2016, 12:12 PM
FYI. JQ Sabers are the UK company that bulk orders from TCSS. They have to cover shipping costs but overall it's cheaper and easier than international shipping and UK customs. However, they also have to wait for TCSS to make parts. Interest in this hobby has blown up over the last year so much that they are still catching up. Check the TCSS FB page for stock updates. :mrgreen:

JQ sent me a message basically saying they have suspended any custom orders outside of the bodies they have in stock; so their business is suffering as a result of the supply and logistics issues as well since they would only be getting the troll's leavings of what TCSS have left over after their own backorders are being completed. Not sure what the answer for this would be other than outsourcing production of components to other engineering firms until supply has caught up with demand.

Greenie
03-30-2016, 01:55 PM
JQ sent me a message basically saying they have suspended any custom orders outside of the bodies they have in stock; so their business is suffering as a result of the supply and logistics issues as well since they would only be getting the troll's leavings of what TCSS have left over after their own backorders are being completed. Not sure what the answer for this would be other than outsourcing production of components to other engineering firms until supply has caught up with demand.

Well, that ain't good for us then. :mad:

FenixFire
03-30-2016, 02:23 PM
JQ sent me a message basically saying they have suspended any custom orders outside of the bodies they have in stock; so their business is suffering as a result of the supply and logistics issues as well since they would only be getting the troll's leavings of what TCSS have left over after their own backorders are being completed. Not sure what the answer for this would be other than outsourcing production of components to other engineering firms until supply has caught up with demand.

Outsourcing production overflow would not be to other engineering firms. It would need to be contract manufacturing. I know of several dozen, but to be honest TCSS prices are at or below what most would charge him to do the contract manufacturing to the tolerances I have seen from the parts I have received from him. Unless he went to Asia, then tolerances and consistency would be the main concern.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
03-30-2016, 02:26 PM
Let's keep this on topic.

TRON1160
04-02-2016, 04:10 PM
In the parts list, it specifies to get one of hilts 1-4. Is there a problem with Hilt 5 or was it just not available at the time of the original post?

Forgetful Jedi Knight
04-02-2016, 04:36 PM
In the parts list, it specifies to get one of hilts 1-4. Is there a problem with Hilt 5 or was it just not available at the time of the original post?

Hilt 5 came later. ;)

TRON1160
04-02-2016, 04:50 PM
Awesome! Thanks, that's long been a question I needed answered.
:D

GaleForceEight
04-06-2016, 10:07 AM
Outsourcing production overflow would not be to other engineering firms. It would need to be contract manufacturing. I know of several dozen, but to be honest TCSS prices are at or below what most would charge him to do the contract manufacturing to the tolerances I have seen from the parts I have received from him. Unless he went to Asia, then tolerances and consistency would be the main concern.

Is contract manufacturing not outsourcing production under a contract to an engineering firm to manufacture to a specification (both dimensional and material)?

To me the option is simple - either pay a premium to outsource with the reduced profit margins that would entail, or lose business to competitors as clients go elsewhere because he cannot deliver what they want in a timely fashion. It is not rocket science!

Silver Serpent
04-06-2016, 12:51 PM
I've seen signs in various establishments that state something along the lines of this:

Fast, Good, Inexpensive. Pick two.

If you want things faster, you'll have to sacrifice quality or price. Tim won't sacrifice quality, and he's intent on keeping prices affordable for those of us in the hobby. You may not get things at the speed you want (especially with demand going crazy), but you'll get quality parts at a great price. I'll take that any day.

FenixFire
04-06-2016, 01:15 PM
No, engineering firms do not manufacture, and manufacturing at best would only have tooling engineers on staff. If any at all, most manufacturing stateside rely on the polymer suppliers engineers to finalize the design and run the fea and mold flow. CNC fabricators like what would be needed here rarely have anything more than skilled machine operators.

Cire Yeldarb
04-06-2016, 04:51 PM
I've seen signs in various establishments that state something along the lines of this:

Fast, Good, Inexpensive. Pick two.

If you want things faster, you'll have to sacrifice quality or price. Tim won't sacrifice quality, and he's intent on keeping prices affordable for those of us in the hobby. You may not get things at the speed you want (especially with demand going crazy), but you'll get quality parts at a great price. I'll take that any day.

Great way to put it SS!

I too would choose Quality and Affordable-Price any day!

FenixFire
04-06-2016, 07:55 PM
Great way to put it SS!

I too would choose Quality and Affordable-Price any day!

And too often it's fast and cheep...

That is what impressed me so much about the superb quality and beyond reasonable price (for in the world of mass production fairly low volume niche market product) of the TCSS parts and almost immediate customer service. I would kill to have this service and quality from even one of my prototyping and low volume manufacturing vendors.

bwsnyder2005
05-02-2016, 06:43 PM
Hello All,
I am new to the site and saber building. I have been reading threads on building sabers for first time builders here and this forum is awesome. I will probably catch hell for asking this so here goes. I am looking at building a saber for my brother in law who is a huge star wars/saber collector. I am going to get a graflex 3 cell flash the from somewhere but I want to build the internal parts to include sound, light up crystal and led light for an eventual saber blade add on later for him. Right now I wanna just build him the hilt from ANH or ESB for him as a gift. Does anyone have a list of what I need to buy to get this going? Just going to be honest and admit I am not understanding what exactly I need in order to make this possible for him.

darth_chasm
05-02-2016, 07:17 PM
Welcome.

Watch all all of the videos on building basic sabers in the video section here. They will give you an idea of well, the basics. Then do some searching on Graflex conversions. Also check out the FX Sabers forums. Many of us are members there as well and there is a great deal more about Graflex sabers on that site.

Youre looking at $300-500+ for a vintage Graflex empty and around $200 for a replica empty. Just so you know, they're not cheap.

Spizaetus
06-10-2016, 08:11 PM
Following the instructions in this thread (and dang--I wish all tutorials were this helpful), I bought the 700mA buckpuck and the Rebel Star LED (red). But I was hoping to use a different battery type than Li-Ion.

I found this (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2AA-Battery-holder-P348.aspx) 2AA battery holder, which says it provides 3V of power, and that it can use rechargeables. I already use rechargeable NiMHs for my computer mouse... if I could use them for my lightsaber, too, that would be wonderfully convenient.

The Rebel Star describes the red version as "Red 106lm @ 700mA 2.4v - Run at 700mA" which I assume means it requires 2.4V to work. I'm not sure if this is an absolute requirement, minimum requirement, etc. In either case, I'd think I'd want to keep the voltage as close as possible to 2.4V.

The 2AA battery holder says it provides 3V of power. But doesn't the voltage depends on the strength of the batteries, not the properties of the holder itself? I've heard that alkaline AA's provide 1.5V each, so I can see how a 2AA battery holder using two alkalines would provide 3V... because 1.5 + 1.5 = 3. NiMH batteries like the kind I use apparently have a lower voltage, just 1.2V each. So I would expect a holder with two NiMH AA's to produce 2.4V instead of 3V.


So, my questions are as follows:

* Am I right in thinking that a 2AA battery holder using NiMHs would be a good choice for this kind of LED?

* The 700mA buckpuck says "Min input voltage is 5V". Does this mean providing only 2.4V or 3V wouldn't work? Or will the buckpuck just not moderate currents weaker than 5V, or something?

* What would happen if I did use alkalines that provided 3V? Would it be too much for the LED? If so, could the buckpuck effectively deal with that amount of excess, even though 3V is less than 5V?

* Assuming that the 2AA battery holder will work, which version would I need: the one with the JST connector, or the one without? I'd assume without, since the JST versions all seem to mention MWS, which I'm not using.. but I want to be sure before I buy anything.


What I know about electronics is mostly self-taught, so if I've said something that's incorrect, please don't hesitate to point it out. I like learning!

BZWingZero
06-11-2016, 09:50 AM
* Am I right in thinking that a 2AA battery holder using NiMHs would be a good choice for this kind of LED?

Most people will use Li-ion batteries instead of NiMHs. Each Li-ion cell will provide 3.4v, and two of them in series in an AA battery holder will provide 7.4v. 14500 batteries (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-Protected-37V-900mAh-14500-Lithium-Battery-2-Pack-P342.aspx) are AA sized.



* The 700mA buckpuck says "Min input voltage is 5V". Does this mean providing only 2.4V or 3V wouldn't work? Or will the buckpuck just not moderate currents weaker than 5V, or something?

A buck puck will not turn on without exceeding the 5v requirement. So no, 2.4v or 3v will not work.



* What would happen if I did use alkalines that provided 3V? Would it be too much for the LED? If so, could the buckpuck effectively deal with that amount of excess, even though 3V is less than 5V?

Alkaline batteries will lead to very short runtimes. If you use a buckpuck with only two alkaline cells, your runtime will be 0, as it won't even turn on.




* Assuming that the 2AA battery holder will work, which version would I need: the one with the JST connector, or the one without? I'd assume without, since the JST versions all seem to mention MWS, which I'm not using.. but I want to be sure before I buy anything.


The only difference is the pre-connected JST connector. Its convenient if you're using it, but not worth it if you're going to be soldering directly.

Spizaetus
06-11-2016, 10:58 AM
Ah, I see. That makes a lot more sense. Thank you for the helpful answers! I'm one step closer to being able to put everything together now. :)

ImInSpace
06-14-2016, 03:37 AM
Hey guys, I am new to the custom saber stuff. I own a custom saber but I want to build my own using the MHS. I picked out the pieces that I want for the hilt but I dont know what to do with electronics. I want a rebel star led but i don't know what else I need.

I'm thinking about using a soundboard from an old Disneyland build your own saber but I do not know how I would wire that up and what parts I would need to go with the led for that.

Thanks a ton guys!

FenixFire
06-14-2016, 05:30 AM
Continue to do your Research. There are several threads offering both tear down of the hasbro sabers and the rewiring of the soundboard to drive the rebel or Cree LEDs. There is an entire sub category here dedicated to the econo boards start there.

C.M.3.003
12-14-2016, 01:51 AM
Thanks a lot! I have been wanting to make a lightsaber since Lucasfilm/Disney announced episode VII, and this tutorial has been very helpful. The list is a very well made, it really helped out a lot. There are some things I would do differently, though: it might be a better idea in step six to choose for a battle blade, as the show blade feels not quite strong enough in my hands. I may be mistaken as I haven't had a "real" battle with it yet. In step 4 you instruct to choose a "clip", but on the linked page there is only one and it's not really clear to me why you need it. Maybe it's there because of updates? Lastly, the battery you recommend in step 5 cannot be shipped internationally, so for those who do not live in the U.S., It is more useful to choose this LED http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Cree-Star-LED-MHSV1-Heatsink-Module-P998.aspx this battery holder http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4AA-Battery-Holder-with-JST-connector-P723.aspx which holds normal AA batteries and this buckpuck http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/BuckPuck-1000mA-4-wire-P364.aspx despite using "normal" AA's, the LED is still extremely bright and lasts long, I have had my lightsaber for three months now (I use it on a daily basis) and there are no signs of the batteries running out of juice yet. Also, there is no charger provided with the li-ion battery you recommend
Although this seems like quite a lot of ""complaints"", I am really grateful! Thanks a lot for the effort and time you put into this!
May the Force be with you.

MrThamer
07-09-2017, 09:25 AM
Hi im new to building i know what i need for the saber components i have a design a mate that works in CAD so i will have a 3d version of my design a fabrictor to make my hilt my only question is inside the hilt do i need places so components can sit in place or would the set screw hold the heatsink and blade on its own

lonestarnation
10-25-2017, 06:12 AM
Ok, new here but I've done a fair and amount of reading and video watching. My son and I are going to build a replica Graflex battle saber for A New Hope. The goal is an LED saber with sound a crystal chamber. I'm starting with a Graflex 2.0 kit, blade holder, and blade. I'll add the rest later but want to keep that in mind with what I buy now. For the blade, we're going with the Corbin battle blade, but which blade holder do I use for A New Hope? Thanks in advance. This is a blast.

mitzi
04-17-2018, 10:56 AM
hi im new here can i use 7.4v Li-ion 1600mAh 14500 Battery Pack with the nano biscotte v 4.0?

bigkevin61
04-17-2018, 11:23 AM
hi im new here can i use 7.4v Li-ion 1600mAh 14500 Battery Pack with the nano biscotte v 4.0?

No, in the NBv4 manual, it states on page 6, the second point, “Power supply : 3.4 to 5.5v / 4A per LED channel. SINGLE li-ion cells (18650 or 14500).”

Single cells are 3.7v, dual cells are 7.4v, and it you hook one up to a NB, it will fry.

Reading though the Soundcard manual is essential to building a saber.