my first MHS lightsaber design

[desert jedi]

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[Jedi-Loreen]

That's not the best placement for a blade retention screw. Up higher on the blade holder is better.

And, your Covertec button is upside down, which will be very apparent, once you have your parts in hand. ;) That's a common mistake that new people make on their first renders.

Looks like a nice, simple first saber.

[desert jedi]

:) thanks, that's why you guys are the experts...it will probably go through some minor design tweeking as I find out what parts are actually available, but I figured this would be a good place to start.

[desert jedi]

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[desert jedi]

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[FenderBender]

The Rahm Kota is an interesting project. However, for the Tsuka Ito to sit right and have the right profile, the hilt itself will have to be milled flat on the sides. I don't know if there is enough meat on the MHS hilts to do it right. I'll have to try it one of these days....

[desert jedi]

well the hilt Ihave chosen has some shallow ridges milled into it, and I am going to use leather for the wrapping, so hopefully it will work out. If not, I'll just redesign the saber a bit. I am also thinking of getting some rayskin to put under the wrap, just to give it more of that katana feel. Rahm Kota's blade was green, so I'll stick with that color.

[desert jedi]

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[Causa]

good luck on the tsukamaki. Make sure to bend your hishi-gami to the curvature of the hilt, and you might want to try something like a battle wrap and use your activation button as your menuki, and maybe a glass eye or a fake button on the other side, that doesn't go too deep inside the hilt the way a real switch would.

I think drilling some holes in the side of your pommel and using a gunto style knot would probably be best, especially if you choose not to go with the same, since you'll be lacking some friction to hold the ito in place.

[Invisas1979]

I actually like the Rahm Kota style saber more than the others and the Tsukamaki Grip is not all that hard to do. I would look at the material you want to use for it though. Leather would need to be a good thickness and is hard to get in long strips.

I used the grip off of a Bokken and it was perfect. I didn't use the small triangles but it still came out ok. Though I would put the effort into it were I to do it again.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/album.php?albumid=127&pictureid=977

You could still do the Tsukamaki with that saber.

[desert jedi]

I actually like the Rahm Kota style saber more than the others and the Tsukamaki Grip is not all that hard to do. I would look at the material you want to use for it though. Leather would need to be a good thickness and is hard to get in long strips.

I used the grip off of a Bokken and it was perfect. I didn't use the small triangles but it still came out ok. Though I would put the effort into it were I to do it again.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/album.php?albumid=127&pictureid=977

You could still do the Tsukamaki with that saber.

I would agree with you...I also like the Rahm Kota idea better, but I decided to go with a saber design that would still look good if I could not pull off the Tsukamaki grip. In any case, I had actualy already seen the pic of your saber and thought about wrapping the bottom half like you did...I definitly like the look of that one, so I'll try it with leather and see how it works out...plus only doing half a saber will make it alot easier to get leather strips that are long enough.

[Causa]

There are a number of online sources to pick up leather tsuka ito online.

Try Paul Loatman's site, for one.

[Obi-Ben]

I like your very first saber design the best, actually. And keep in mind that the smaller internal diameter of the ribbed pieces makes it kind of hard to fit much of anything in there. Although I did manage to cram a 2AA battery pack in mine.

[desert jedi]

I'm also fond of my first design, but I opted for a longer saber to make sure I had room for all of my electronics. I will be running a 4AA battery pack and eventually a MR Windu soundboard +speaker and need as much room as I can get. Nice thing about the modular hilt is I can change things anytime I want.

Just a note...all of my parts showed up today, except my blade and a 1000 mA puck that I ordered seperately. The machine work is beautiful...thanks Tim :) Great job! The other parts should be here Friday and then I am going on vacation for a week. I'll be sure to post pics of the build as I go, and hopefully I shold have a completed saber sometime soon. Can't wait!!! Now I need a name...probably will wait on that until I get it done, but right now I'll give it the working title "Genesis"...since it is the beginning of my saber building.

[Jedi Yar-Nala]

Intersting... concept...

Those that know me on Fx-Sabers know that I am fond of the Tsuka wrappings myself :)

Would be cool if you can pull that off on this saber.

Causa... send me a quick e-mail on this....

r_apuada@hotmail.com

Had some questions for you about it.

Thanks and God Bless,
JYN

[desert jedi]

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[Onli-Won Kanomi]

Looking good so far.

You may find the added length can help balance a full length blade and the choke on that bladeholder will make it a good spinner...it should be a good working saber as well as a good looking one.

[desert jedi]

Looking good so far.

You may find the added length can help balance a full length blade and the choke on that bladeholder will make it a good spinner...it should be a good working saber as well as a good looking one.

Well the blade showed up yesterday courtesy of UPS. It is an UltraEdge so it needed some mild sanding to make it fit the bladeholder, but I got that done. Inserted the blade, tightened down the set screw, took it outside and tried some moves. You are right, the choke makes a perfect grip point for spins and it does handle really nice, even with an empty hilt. The battery pack shouldn't add much in the way of weight, so even at 48+ inches total length, it is still balanced really well. The 14 inch hilt is awesome for leverage...

[Jedi-Loreen]

Check your quick disconnects before you use them. Some of them have one end done wrong.

There should be a dashed silver line on one wire. Make sure that that wire connects with itself when you connect the 2 connectors together for each of the QDs.

If not, push down on the locking tab of each pin and gently pull the wires out of one connector and switch them.

Make sure they are both wired the same way.

[desert jedi]

Check your quick disconnects before you use them. Some of them have one end done wrong.

There should be a dashed silver line on one wire. Make sure that that wire connects with itself when you connect the 2 connectors together for each of the QDs.

If not, push down on the locking tab of each pin and gently pull the wires out of one connector and switch them.

Make sure they are both wired the same way.


Thanks for the advice, I'll be sure to check them when I wire everything up.

[desert jedi]

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[Darth Midian]

That's a sweet looking saber. Your rebel green looks good. I haven't used one yet. I have used the p4s though and I love them. I've used the red, white, & green. I have nothing bad to say about them. Good job.

[Skottsaber]

Wow. The thing that sets this saber apart is the fact that it looks perfectly at home in both 'roles'.
The black ribbed grooved extension is a great addition.

[Darth Nemesis]

Very elegant build! I think your green came out nice and bright, especially seeing it in a semi lit room. Both are very evenly lit up and both colors look great with your saber design!