mhs question

[Skybreaker]

to anyone who has an mhs saber:
what is the inner diameter of the main body? I am looking to use a different battery pack than the one TCSS sells. the one I will be using is made of metal, not plastic.
I'm trying to see if my planned configuration will fit.

[Tahm]

Main Hilts
ID: 1.25"
OD: Little under 1.5" with a overall length of 7".


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-and-battery-holder-P315.aspx

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hilt-style-4-with-standard-style-switch-hole-P103.aspx

* Tim's descriptions are right on.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Also, chokes, ribbed sections etc are of a different outer diameter so be aware of this.

[Tahm]

@ Shadar, Great point!

I remember a few months back (when I was designing my saber) I came across a thread that had MHS builder graphics in it showing most of the extensions and other parts inner diameters (If not other measurements as well) I remember that thread was very helpful when I was still planning my saber "guts". I always thought that thread should be "stickied" or made easier to find some other way. (Since I couldn't find it again after that.)

[Shadar Al'Niende]

When you come across threads like these book mark them (make yourself a saber bookmark folder) so that you can easily get back to them again and again.

Another option (in case threads close or sites go down) is to use a pdf printer (you can find free ones online all over the place) and create your own library of saber documents!

[Skybreaker]

okay, this should work. I'm going to use two of these (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=189K-ND) mounted back-to-back and from the dimensions you gave me they should fit.

[Skybreaker]

and actually, I think I will be using an 8" extension as my main body, as I want a slightly longer hilt. this shouldn't make any difference, right?

[Tahm]

Those look nice and study, however I think that there would be some problems with that battery holder. The inner diameter of a main body MHS piece is 1.25" but if you mounted 2 of these back to back that would make the minimum height of both of holders 1.26" (0.63 x 2) which wouldn't fit inside (unless you modified them) other than the height it would probablly work fine.

I'll be the first to admit that my saber building skills aren't as advanced as half of the of the others on this forum. But I might try something else unless you were sure you could modify it properly....

Right, the 8" double female threaded connectors inner diameter is still 1.25"
(as a suggestion you may want to have Tim drill a switch hole in the extension for you he did that for my saber and it worked great.)

@ Shadar yeah I started after that incident. Some lessons learned the hard way. I hadn't thought about making PDFs though not a bad idea. Also did you mean Inner Diameter? Because those also differ with chokes and some extensions.

[Skybreaker]

The inner diameter of a main body MHS piece is 1.25" but if you mounted 2 of these back to back that would make the minimum height of both of holders 1.26" (0.63 x 2) which wouldn't fit inside (unless you modified them) other than the height it would probablly work fine...

...(as a suggestion you may want to have Tim drill a switch hole in the extension for you he did that for my saber and it worked great.)

wait. the site says the dimensions are 4.11" L x 0.63" W x 0.59" H
so the total height of two back-to-back is 1.18 in.
were you thinking that the width was the height? one of us read that wrong.
anyway, if that was the problem, I could just mount them side-by-side.

ok, one more question if anyone could answer it:
for a covertec knob, what would be the best way to go about mounting it? should I just drill a hole and screw it in? (provided I get the right drill bit)
or should I use the "drill and tap hole" service to have them prep a hole for me? my question for that one was that it looked more like it was for blade retention screws.

sorry for all these questions, it's my first time building my own saber.

EDIT:
after doing more searching, it appears to me that you can us the "drill and tap hole" service for a covertec screw.

and yes, I am planning on having him drill a hole for the switch.

[Tahm]

You're right I did get the height and width confused. My mistake, then your plan should work out alright. I would recommend the drill and tap service, Tim can drill and tap many hole sizes including the size for the covertec clip. He did it for me once and it makes it so the covertec can be removed later. Also it won't protrude into the inner side of the saber the same way a pop rivet would. But then it all depends on how you were going to fasten the covertec clip. If you go with that service you can specify where you want the hole to be which can go anywhere on the extension except the threads (about 0.5" from the end of the extension)

BTW Happy StarWars day: May the 4th be with you!

[Jordandau]

If it's a circular piece you're putting a rectangle into, wouldn't both the width and height have to be under 1.25?

[Tahm]

Take another look at the dimesions, the pack is pretty small. But when you add 2 back to back it fits but not if it were side to side since the height and width aren't the same.

Size / Dimension 4.11" L x 0.63" W x 0.59" H

So 2 stacked on top of each other would be would be 1.18", x 0.63", x 4.11" while if it were side by side like I originally mistook it would be 1.26", x 0.59", x 4.11" (too wide)

[Pheonix161]

umm, i dont know if this topic is just about that one question or what so ill just ask it, someone cane give me the answer, an you can go on,

so on the guarded button system, im not using a blade for my saber, i just want a hilt, so im going to get the guarded, do i need to get any other parts to attach it in or just the "button"?

[Jedi-Loreen]

You can still order a guarded switch to fill the hole for a cosmetic look if you don't want any electronics in your hilt (yet ;)) and are just using it as a stunt hilt. It's not really a switch "system", but you need to match the hole in the hilt body to the switch, and vice-versa.

Just be aware, that with the guarded switch, unlike the standard switch, the nut goes onto the switch from the inside of the hilt. It can be a bit tricky to get it started, for some people.

[Pheonix161]

ok, and do i need to have a new hole drilled in the hilt or does it work for the guarded variation of the main hilt thingy?

[Lord Maul]

The guarded variation is meant for the guarded switch ;)

[Pheonix161]

k thanks, something in the description made me think othewise...
oh, and do i need that bezel nut thing?
and whats the difference between latching, and momentary?

[Lord Maul]

You don't need the bezel nut, that is only for the standard switches.

A latching switch keeps contact. You push it and the saber will stay on until you push it again.

A momentary doesn't keep contact, You push it and the saber will be on as long as you are holding the button down. If you have a Crystal Focus, Corbin driver, or Ultrasound, you can use a momentary button as they are made to use them.