illuminated switch tricky location

[Vlad Doon]

Hi everybody.
I am finishing a hilt project and it looks good but there may be a problem. I do WANT an illuminated switch with activation box, so far, no problem,... but its location is tricky. I would like it as close as possible to the pommel.
That's to say that the edge of the switch will almost touch the beginning of the threads. As for the box screws, I plan to solder the box (cold soldering glue) so the rear screw won't go through the threads.
My problem is : -where can I locate the speaker ? In the following plan, I've separeted it from the soundboard, battery ,
-The location of the battery forces me to open the hilt from the front each time I change the batteries (note that I'm not planning to make a rechargeable for now).

As I've never made a saber with a switch so close to the pommel. I've find it challenging but must admit I'm in a need of advice, suggestions and ideas.My only guideline is switch box at the rear and no rechargeable battery.
Note Don't pay attention to the wiring.
Thx

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Reverse sound.;)

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

LDM is right...as usual...reverse sound FTW.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

You could also reverse your sound card and battery pack and use a speaker mount... obviously reverse sound being the superior option (but if you don't want to mod the parts for sound, its another option.)

[Vlad Doon]

Thank you all, I didn't expect that option.
So, if I understand well, the battery with speaker installed toward the blade holder will be fine ?
I suppose that means drilling some holes in the choke for sound, that shouldn't be a problem, well, in fact, it's a more compact and logic design (and makes a huge resonance chamber).
In that case, I'd maybe try to gain space sliding the soundboard (anakin fx) backward below the illuminated switch. ( if enough room)
If I put a combo TCSS speaker/battery like in the following plan, will there be enough room in the diameter section to let the led wires pass toward the choke ?

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Thank you all, I didn't expect that option.
So, if I understand well, the battery with speaker installed toward the blade holder will be fine ?
I suppose that means drilling some holes in the choke for sound, that shouldn't be a problem, well, in fact, it's a more compact and logic design (and makes a huge resonance chamber).
In that case, I'd maybe try to gain space sliding the soundboard (anakin fx) backward below the illuminated switch. ( if enough room)
If I put a combo TCSS speaker/battery like in the following plan, will there be enough room in the diameter section to let the led wires pass toward the choke ?

You may have to modify the speaker holder a bit to get the wires to pass (there are a few posts on this) Also, your board will not fit under the illuminated switch, in fact, not much will....maybe some wire?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Thank you all, I didn't expect that option.
So, if I understand well, the battery with speaker installed toward the blade holder will be fine ?
I suppose that means drilling some holes in the choke for sound, that shouldn't be a problem, well, in fact, it's a more compact and logic design (and makes a huge resonance chamber).
In that case, I'd maybe try to gain space sliding the soundboard (anakin fx) backward below the illuminated switch. ( if enough room)
If I put a combo TCSS speaker/battery like in the following plan, will there be enough room in the diameter section to let the led wires pass toward the choke ?
Unfortunately, the male threads on the choke take up almost all of the space in the female threads of the MHS hilt section, meaning the speaker mount will not fit in that location. you'll have to use another method to put the speaker there.

The speaker mounts are designed to work with the threads on the pommels, which are about 3/16" shorter than those found on the chokes and the ribbed extensions.

[Crystal Chambers]

Unfortunately, the male threads on the choke take up almost all of the space in the female threads of the MHS hilt section, meaning the speaker mount will not fit in that location. you'll have to use another method to put the speaker there.

The speaker mounts are designed to work with the threads on the pommels, which are about 3/16" shorter than those found on the chokes and the ribbed extensions.


Can't you modify the speaker holder OD ? Or shorten the male threads of the choke to make room? Or when the speakerholder leaves a gap between MHS parts couldn't you live with it or fill them in with something like an O-ring?

The biggest challenge I can imagine is that chokes have such thick tube that passing the wire around the speaker through grooves in the holder and then immediately back in towards the narrow choke might be tricky.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Can't you modify the speaker holder OD ? Or shorten the male threads of the choke to make room? Or when the speakerholder leaves a gap between MHS parts couldn't you live with it or fill them in with something like an O-ring?

The biggest challenge I can imagine is that chokes have such thick tube that passing the wire around the speaker through grooves in the holder and then immediately back in towards the narrow choke might be tricky.

that is exactly how to do it. Good observation CC. As far as it being difficult to pass the wires...everything worth doing is difficult :lol: BUT it will work if he machines the delrin down and creates a couple of wire channels. ;)

[Vlad Doon]

Well, For the speaker that doesn't fit the front threat (thx Jay-gon for the info) I find the solution of a o ring quite interesting (thx CC) . What if I put the electronics looking backward with the speaker first, the battery and the soundcard as in the following plan (an inner chassis would ease the handling each time I get the batteries out) ?
Anyway there will still be the problem of the wires through the speaker. Like you said LDM, it's difficult but not impossible, and it worths the try.

Thx to 8)you all

[Crystal Chambers]

Maybe a trim ring would work as another spacer option.

I would go with a recharge port for sure but having a good chassis would make more stable which is ideal. Otherwise I think you really need a good plan for battery changing. Moving anything with a sound board etc makes me nervous.

[Vlad Doon]

Maybe a trim ring would work as another spacer option.

I would go with a recharge port for sure but having a good chassis would make more stable which is ideal. Otherwise I think you really need a good plan for battery changing. Moving anything with a sound board etc makes me nervous.

You are so right, and I don't want that changing battery turns into desarming a bomb, (will some soldering break? will I damage the soundboard?)
I agree as well that recharge port IS the solution but I don't trust my skills (yet) in this stuff. Maybe I should reconsider....
As for the chassis, here in Spain and France we use to have smaller sink tubes which ID fits perfectly inside a MHS part, so we cannot use them as overlays but yes as chassis (maybe you have these tubes as well ?)

[Crystal Chambers]

The 1.25 sinktubes here on TCSS fit inside MHS nicely. Recharge ports are simple IMO. If you can wire up a sound board and have it running stable in a sturdy chassis, then a recharge port is nothing. Solder can break from too much movement so I personally would seriously suggest the port unless you're going stunt. I'm far from pro at all this, and haven't got one with sound fully complete yet but I'm really obsessed with multiple sabers in the works. I even put a port in one of my stunt sabers just because of how tight the battery holders are on the batteries.

One thing I've had some luck with is hotglue on the wires in safe areas away from the board but preventing movement near your board or other solder joints.

[Vlad Doon]

The 1.25 sinktubes here on TCSS fit inside MHS nicely. Recharge ports are simple IMO. If you can wire up a sound board and have it running stable in a sturdy chassis, then a recharge port is nothing. Solder can break from too much movement so I personally would seriously suggest the port unless you're going stunt. I'm far from pro at all this, and haven't got one with sound fully complete yet but I'm really obsessed with multiple sabers in the works. I even put a port in one of my stunt sabers just because of how tight the battery holders are on the batteries.

One thing I've had some luck with is hotglue on the wires in safe areas away from the board but preventing movement near your board or other solder joints.

You know, I think you 've convinced me about it. I've never considered rechargeableas it seemed too complicated, but I've never seriously had a look at it. It may be time for me to do the first step, besides, I love too much sabers to stunt with them. I've seen a lot of discussions about different types of batteries,etc...so if you know where there is a good tutorial about it, I'll go for it.
I really thank you for the tip for the hot glue.
:cool:

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Except in rare instances when alkalines are more practical, i will always use and in hilt recharge system. As long as you can solder, know the wiring diagram is correct (you can look for a very good tutorial on how to wire a port) then its just soldering another connection. I promise you that once you do an in-hilt recharge system, you will never look back.

[Vlad Doon]

Except in rare instances when alkalines are more practical, i will always use and in hilt recharge system. As long as you can solder, know the wiring diagram is correct (you can look for a very good tutorial on how to wire a port) then its just soldering another connection. I promise you that once you do an in-hilt recharge system, you will never look back.

Oh I'm sure about it Shadar. The fact is that I usually solder and wire up MR fx boards with LuxIII w/o any problem. I've also read about soldering a rechargeable port to batteries and boards but I have still (big) doubts about -nimh and lion? Why a PCB ?
In fact, I'd like to make something simple : rechargeable AAA (4.8v for a MR must be good?) in a holder connected to a recharge port. You know all these details about it that mean success, or burning hilts:)
I see plenty of advanced tuts but not a basic sum up from the beginning.
I must dig

[Shadar Al'Niende]

using the AAA NiMH here in the store will be a good place to start since it requires no PCB and you can easily use a 2x2 stack with the 4AAA holder sold here in the store.

A PCB is a protection circuit since if Li-Ion batteries are over charged/drained they can explode etc causing major damage to you or your saber. Do some more looking around, i think you can do it ;)

[xl97]

reverse sound will work..

but if you have room..just put it behid the switch..

you can get the OD turned down.. and make small 'channels' for the wires to go through...

not sure if you can see it here.. but that what I did on pone my builds:

http://dmstudios.net/misc/switchPics/allinone.jpg



as for re-charge port.. for sure..

IMHO.. all higher level sabers will have this.. (as most higher level builds should require NO disassembly)

and it makes life easier in general.

[Vlad Doon]

reverse sound will work..

but if you have room..just put it behid the switch..

you can get the OD turned down.. and make small 'channels' for the wires to go through...

not sure if you can see it here.. but that what I did on pone my builds:

http://dmstudios.net/misc/switchPics/allinone.jpg



as for re-charge port.. for sure..

IMHO.. all higher level sabers will have this.. (as most higher level builds should require NO disassembly)

and it makes life easier in general.


I can imagine the channels, but when you say behind the switch, you mean between switch and other electronics ? Do you think that putting the speaker alone between pommel thread and switch would be possible or is it a stupid solution ? This way I avoid wire passing through it ???

As for the recharge port, I've changed my mind and I've read about it all day long, it's the better option

[xl97]

yes.. I meant between switch and electronics..

I dont think have the speaker NOT in some sort of moount/protective case is a wise choice.

if you plan things out.. and look around for house hold items with the OD the same as the ID of yor hilt..you'll come up with 'something' Im sure..

[Vlad Doon]

using the AAA NiMH here in the store will be a good place to start since it requires no PCB and you can easily use a 2x2 stack with the 4AAA holder sold here in the store.

A PCB is a protection circuit since if Li-Ion batteries are over charged/drained they can explode etc causing major damage to you or your saber. Do some more looking around, i think you can do it ;)

Thanx for the info. I've read a lot since our last talk as it was crystal clear that you were right about the rechargeable batteries, it was obvious that I had to learn how to install them.

Well, I've drawn the whole wiring of saber from a basic MR wiring guide I've found here (thx to the autor) adding an illuminated latching switch and the recharge port. It's undestood that the battery holder (4aaa) will de filled with 4 1,2 v Nimh AAA.
I'll move this plan to wiring and schematics cuts as it'll be the proper place for this kind of thing. Thx again

[Vlad Doon]

Thx, in fact, I've got plenty of small (1.25 I guess) sink tubes junk sections that will do it properly