Possibly upgrading my saber and I have a few questions

[Sidd]

Ok I am thinking of upgrading my personal saber to be brighter and last a bit longer and I have a few questions. but first here it my current saber set up

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l134/snipersidd/Custom%20Sabers/th_DSC01027.jpg (http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l134/snipersidd/Custom%20Sabers/DSC01027.jpg)

MHS hilt with a MR Yoda board, TCSS premium speaker, Seoul P4 blue and lighted latching AV switch all powered by 4 AAA alkaline cells.

My first question is would a Single 3.7 volt lithium cell be enough to power the whole rig and increase the brightness of the P4?

If i were to put a buckpuck into the circuit to overdrive the P4 would i put it before or after the clash sensor?

and lastly would one of those JST 4 wire QD plugs they sell in the TCSS store fit through the hole i drilled for my AV switch? my plan is to put the switch on a disconnect so i can easily remove it if i need to work on the saber. right now it is just hardwired in

thank you for the help and suggestions

[Rafalema]

1. The Li-Ion cell will be enough to power the soundboard, but I have no idea will it increase the brightness.

2. I don't know what you would achieve with a buckpuck, but it would come after the clash sensor.

3. Not at the same time I think

[Skottsaber]

I also wan't to know if the 4-wire connector would fit. My thoughts were, if not, then put on 2 JST connectors, one with slightly longer wires from the switch, so I can pull one out, and then the other without a big squeeze.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

I recently used a 4 wire QD on my saber with a 22mm hole , yes it will fit but only if you modify it ;)

I took the two "wings" (guess you could call them tabs) off and it fits just fine.

You can kind of see the part i am referring to at the top of this picture here:

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/Picture_135.jpg

Also I am told that 3.7 will run it in theory, but that to use 4-6v is best.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

A buck puck wouldn't overdrive the led, since it's output is only 1000ma, and the Yoda outputs very close to that if not more with a 4.8v/6v set up like you have now. A buck puck also has a minimum input voltage of 5 volts, so a single Li-Ion 18650 wouldn't properly power it. You don't need the buck puck anyway, the board will drive the led just fine by itself.

Another thing that may work for you is to swap out the 4-AAA battery holder for the 4-AA battery holder TCSS stocks. This might allow you to mount the sound board on top of the battery holder. You would of course, also have to replace your speaker mount with the v3 if you used a v2 in this saber.

[cardcollector]

The only ways to increase the brightness of a lightsaber is

-feed it more "ma".
- Buy a 5W or even 10W LED, the LEDenginge 10W is the brightest LED I know of that is used in sabers.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Then he'd need to change the battery solution too, don't forget.

[Rafalema]

OR get a relay

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Yoda board = ~1A
buckpuck = 1A

Therefore, no need to change.

a 3.7V battery (when fully charged) is actually about 4.2V and that board is made to run on 4.5 V so, you would not see a difference in functionality, but you would indeed save a bit of space and would be able to wire in a recharge/kill setup so you never need to open the saber.;)

As for the connector, a 4 wire does fit with mods, but I would recommend (2) of the JST connectors like skottsaber suggested or PM me for further advice.:cool:

[Shadar Al'Niende]

... a 3.7V battery (when fully charged) is actually about 4.2V and that board is made to run on 4.5 V so, you would not see a difference in functionality, but you would indeed save a bit of space and would be able to wire in a recharge/kill setup so you never need to open the saber.;) ...

Couldn't have put it better myself :cool:

[Jedi-Loreen]

OR get a relay
I meant that he'd need a different battery solution if he went with a 5W or 10W LED, like cardcollector suggested in the post above mine.

[Sidd]

Thank you very much guys

I guess I will be keeping the saber the way it is for now since there doesnt seem to be a cheap upgrade option

[strengthofrage]

JST connectors are pretty cheap. Swapping from 4AAA to 4AA like Jay said will increase run time, that's pretty cheap as well :)

[Sidd]

i dont think the AA cells will fit

[Jay-gon Jinn]

i dont think the AA cells will fit
They should if you can put the yoda board on top of this kind of set up:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/98c2ce3c.jpg
I have a Yoda board here and this type of battery holder, and it'll fit, but you'll have to have the Yoda board as far forward on the battery holder as possible for it to work.

[Skottsaber]

They should if you can put the yoda board on top of this kind of set up

So you'd put the Yoda board on top of a CF? :mrgreen:

[Kal El Rah]

So you'd put the Yoda board on top of a CF? :mrgreen:

Ha ha ha ha ha:cool:;):rolleyes:

[Sidd]

Master Jay-gon are you using a a illuminated AV switch with that set up as well?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Master Jay-gon are you using a a illuminated AV switch with that set up as well?
Yes, I am in that particular saber, but it's not an MHS hilt. I do have another one that is using a similar set-up in an MHS hilt with an AV switch, but I'm not 100% certain that the Yoda board will fit now that I've tried it with an MHS hilt and AV switch. It's a very tight fit with the stock location for the switch hole. It might be possible to get it to fit like the compact set up with the Ultrasounds where the board is at the rear of the battery holder if you were to remove the header for the blade plug on the Yoda board. you'd have to rework the wiring for it then, and it might be too much of a pain to do it and then not have it fit.