New Member, first saber, little clue.

[Bob93r]

Hi guys, obviously I am new here so let me just start with a little background.

I have zero electronics experience, my fandom for Star Wars does not extend beyond Eps IV-VI and some of the novels and up until about two weeks ago I though a dremel was only used for filing metal. To top things off I have had very little to do with online forums, so very green there too.
On the other hand I train in Japanese sword styles and like to duel..... a lot.

So we decided to start dueling with lightsabers as all of my mate are geeks too. So we got some ultrasabers, but very soon the lack of sound became an issue and now we are looking at building our own.

So my list looks like this:
MPS Pommel style 8
Blade holder style 8
MHS ribbed extension
Hilt style 3 with guarded (unguarded advice please) style switch hole
MHS choke style 3
MPS Pommel Clip
MPS Pommel Insert style 6
Seoul P4 (Green)
Collimator Lens 5° (10° ??) viewing angle
Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
DPDT Momentary (latching - Advice please) red illuminated switch
Bezel for illuminated switches
Battery and Speaker combo
10-32 Tap & drill set
Graflex Glass Button Replica Thumbscrew
MR Maul soundboard
36" Ultrasabers ultraedge heavy dueling blade.

So, it is going to be long, 16.35" in fact. I am going for a No-Dochi/field sword feel.
The idea that I am working with is that in the "thousand generations" that Jedi have been about they must have had a real war (as opposed to the rather pathetic Clone War ((an argument for another day))). Most likely somewhere in Jedi history there would have been a war with the Sith and in all wars warriors have often replace damaged or destroyed weapons with weapons from fallen enemies. So I am thinking of a family heirloom type reclaimed Sith hilt (hence the Maul board).

I have a friend that is a bit of as wiz with electronics (and lathes and just about everything else) so I will have adequate supervision.
Once I get some practice there will be subtle dremel sink tubes and plates and it will be weathered, but it is supposed to be a battle field weapon so it is not going to be heavy on the ornaments.

Input from you guys would be much appreciated. Apart from what have I missed, what do you guys think of the P4 as opposed to the Rebel?
Will these parts hold up to heavy dueling (we regularly break bokken)?
If not what would you recommend to relace the weak parts?

Thanks in advance.

[Rafalema]

I think that the saber is actually pretty good (and yes, it will be dueleable)

I believe that the P4 green is brighter than the rebel green, but DON'T quote me on that one.

If you want illuminated switch, then I think that you have to buy the corresponding hilt style from 'extensions' and then buy a drill service for illuminated switches.

If you're going to tap ANYTHING with the tap you're going to buy, I truly recommend buying the 'Tap Handle'. Of course, this is not necessary if you already have one.

Are you aware that you will have to sand either the blade holder or the Ultrasabers blade to make it fit MHS blade holders?

Tip: Get some JST Connectors so you can easily dismantle the saber for repairs/upgrades etc.

Some tutorials for you:

Thread tapping:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=5724

Im sorry I couldn't find the 'How to post pictures' thread.

[Skottsaber]

This list looks good to me with Rafalema's suggestions. Welcome to the forums, I hope you enjoy your new addiction.

In answer to your questions, you do not need to worry about guarded/unguarded switch holes if you want an illuminated switch. You will need to buy the 'Machine switch hole in MHS' service and select 'Illuminated Switch'.

For which Lens to buy, read this thread. (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=2744&highlight=lens) I think most people go 10 degree, though.

For any Force FX sound board, you will need a latching switch.

I think the battery/speaker combo won't be too much voltage to fry the board, but you may want to check that.

Also, buy a quick disconnect for your LED. Most people use the QD instead of the JST connectors for LEDs so if you want to use a JST it's fine, but like I said, the general convention for LEDs, is use the male end of the quick disconnect for the LED.

Otherwise I think you're set. Make sure to post pictures when you're done!

[Rafalema]

90 % of MRFX board DO NOT FIT to mhs on the battery/speaker combo if you are trying to put the board on top of the battery pack.

[Skottsaber]

I wasn't saying which was better, I personally use JST connectors in sabers, but the general convention is (and what I also do) is use a QD instead.

[Rafalema]

Little editing did the trick..

[Jay-gon Jinn]

90 % of MRFX board DO NOT FIT to mhs on the battery/speaker combo if you are trying to put the board on top of the battery pack.I don't think he would need to put the soundboard on this:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/180_8047.jpg (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-and-battery-holder-P315.aspx)
This hilt is over 16" in length....I think he has plenty of room for the soundboard in the ribbed extension. Which leaves a ton of room in the main hilt piece for batteries.

So, if I were building this saber, I'd skip that and get these instead:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/DSC00228.JPG (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V3-P358.aspx)

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/864.jpg (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Premium-Speaker--P77.aspx)

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Assets/ProductImages/164.jpg (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4AA-Battery-holder--P134.aspx)

You'll have to assemble it yourself, but it's very easy to do.

A 4-AA alkaline 6 volt battery source is fine with the MR boards, but avoid the Energizer e2's and the Duracell Lithium batteries, since they can each have a starting voltage approaching/surpassing 1.7volts....that would fry the board. You can also ensure that the board is safer by using NiMH rechargeables in the battery holder. The Tenergy brand sold are an excellent choice of you went that route.

As far as your led choices go, I've used both the new Rebel green TCSS stocks and the green P4, and found them to be comparable to each other in both brightness and color.

If you're going to be using a long blade with this saber, you may want to go with the 5 degree optic. It takes a few modifications to get it to fit the holder TCSS sells, but it's easy to do, and there are a few topics that cover how to do that in the led sabers section.

[Bob93r]

Thank for all the advice guys, it helps to put my mind at ease.. there are so many bits and pieces and so much knowledge to try to cram in your head, it really make a difference to have this section to identify any faults or omissions from you list.
Thanks again.