Aggressions Edge, a first effort.

[Darth_Dadderall]

Mods, if this is doubleposting no-no you can delete.


http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72/Rogh-sensei/Sabers/DCP_6301.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72/Rogh-sensei/Sabers/DCP_6302.jpg

All MHS parts, some of them three years old. Red powdercoat and black truck bed spray liner. Pommel has a type six insert with recharge port and speaker. Houses a Lux III Red LED and will be driven by an US 2.5 board. Black AV switch with red illuminated ring. Current blade is a thickwalled Corbin film single layer at 40 inches with custom twist-lock groove. Also pictured with the blade that came with my son's Yoda conversion, a thinwalled maybe Ultra or TCSS blade.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72/Rogh-sensei/Sabers/DCP_6304.jpg
Yoda mystery blade.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72/Rogh-sensei/Sabers/DCP_6307.jpg
Corbin blade.

Feedback is welcome and appreciated, as this is my virgin effort, three years in the making.

[DJMoonbass]

wow that thing is evil looking and BRIGHT!!!! way to go duderz!

[Crystal Chambers]

Cool...definitely unique placement of switch, covertec, and overlay. Makes me wonder how you grip it.

Corbin film seems to work better with a few feet of polyp(clear giftwrap). I used roughly 4 feet with a quad wrap and it doesn't have a core that way but it has a nice texture and is evenly lit. I think if you want a bright core look that fills the full length you may want more wraps. I've tested the diffuser tube, corbin film and both with various amounts of polyp. I didn't think the corbin film on it's own is as bright as any other combo but it looks ok with a quad wrap.

Is that a luke ROTJ or Obiwon ANH in the background?..oh I see now...lol

[Darth_Dadderall]

Thanks for the tip. I'm a southpaw so the switch/covertec thing doesn't bother me, and with the covertec positioned where it is it doesn't swing all over when I wear it.
I'm probably going to cut down the corbin blade a few inches off the top, put a new tip with a new reflector on, and probably add some poly-p to help even it out. It just feels too long, even though by the guidelines it should be about perfect for 5'-10" me. I felt kinda committed to this design and couldn't bring myself to scrap it after having shelved it when my son was born. But I have grand ideas for my next project, so stay tuned...

[Crystal Chambers]

No prob...

IC....a lefty. I still would imagine the longer part of the shroud to the left instead of center. That actually makes sense now as the pointy parts would be away from getting snagged. I'm a few inches taller and I prefer 32" minimum, but could see going up to 36" depending on where my hand is in relation to the emitter.

I have some tips and mirrors I've been meaning to experiment with myself. I wanna try the smaller mirror thing so light passes around it. I've also heard of translucent reflective stuff instead of a mirror.

[Roy's Blues]

My virgin effort. All MHS with red powder coating and black bedliner spray grip. LuxIII Red and US 2.5 (not installed at time of photos.) Red ring black AV switch and recharge port equipped 7.2V Li-Ion pack.

You should not be using a 7.2 li-ion pack with a Lux III red, unless there is a regulator between the battery pack & US 2.5
If directly connected, US 2.5 board will not handle the excess voltage well. The board could overheat to the point that the solder holding the components melts and the components fall off.

This is well documented and in the store specs on the US 2.5

Battery input voltage:
Maximum for board = 9.6V
Minimum/Maximum for Luxeon 3, K2, P4 = 4.5V / 7.2V (6V recommended)
Minimum/Maximum for Luxeon 3,P4 Red/Amber = 4.8V / 6.0V
Minimum for Luxeon 5 = 7.2V
IMPORTANT! (be sure to use the correct voltage/power with corresponding LED type)

[Crystal Chambers]

For that matter I found 6V recommended was overheating. From what I've seen it'll run off one li-ion or as much as 4.8V.

[Sairon]

[QUOTE=Darth_Dadderall;165992]

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72/Rogh-sensei/Sabers/DCP_6304.jpg


QUOTE]

Nice saber, simple yet still cool. On a side note I think that lampstand would make a great saber.

[DJMoonbass]

i was SO thinkin the same thing

[Crystal Chambers]

Is that a luke ROTJ or Obiwon ANH in the background?..oh I see now...lol

Totally...bye bye lamp, hello new saber..lol

[Darth_Dadderall]

I'd probably get in a lot of trouble for that.

Roy's Blues: What do you recommend to correct then? Could I bleed it off to some accent LED's? There's one in the switch and I can always add another. Or should I just put a resistor in to drop the voltage a little between the battery and board?

[Roy's Blues]

I would recommend going with a different power supply.
4 AA or 4 AAA Nimh

Or switching to a Lux V Blue, Green or Cyan

[Darth_Dadderall]

Hm. Assume that's not feasible at this time. Workaround?

[Zook]

Hm. Assume that's not feasible at this time. Workaround?

just get a 5 or 6 V regulator then.

Or else you will be sending it to me to replace the current driver that gets fried from heat.

The problem is actually with the output transistor. With the reduction of size (I believe the specs are about the same) the transistor can not handle the heat it has to bleed off so it melts the solder and will de-solder itself and components next to it. It will also fry the NUD4001 (current driver) which are hard to get right now.

I have a couple of the old style bigger transistors that I was going to solder onto the US 2.5 to see if this fixes the issue (it should).

[Darth Midian]

Totally...bye bye lamp, hello new saber..lol

that's to funny.

[Darth_Dadderall]

Thanks for the tip, Zook. Let me know how that bigger trans works out for you. And I might be able to swing a NiMH solution here after all.

[sithlordfaust]

running a lux III red Id go with a single 18650 Li-Ion.

[Darth_Dadderall]

I ended up replacing the Li-Ion pack with two 2-packs of NiMH wired in series for 4.8V. The way the packs are arranged in the hilt gives the whole thing a nice balanced weight.

[jjshumpert]

crystal try a 2 layer mirror tint in your tip, ive found it lights the tips rather well and gives comparable reflection back down the tube to the mirrors

[Crystal Chambers]

hehe..I just found out about the chrome window tint this time last week. I did try the smaller mirror though and it looks much much better. I took a few pics and you can't see the tip at all, but in person it depends on the angle you look at it.