Thanks to this forum, My first build! WIP/PICS!

[slothfurnace]

I had decided to make a Force FX Style illuminated blade ANH Obi Wan Saber.

The offerings from Master Replicas and Hasbro have that extra fat windvane piece that is pretty much meh.

After I had started this project, I found this site, and this forum, and read, and learned a LOT! To the custom saber shop, and forum members, I say THANKS!

To start with, I found a section of aluminum tube that I shaved down on the lathe to secure the blade tube to the inside of a RussRep emitter, it's super snug and tight, and with a few set screws on the inside of the emitter, going into a custom machined base on the inside of the polycarbonate tube, it should be sturdy enough to not move much.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/001.jpg

The small aluminum tube is some scrap I had that BARELY fits the light tube. I had to shave it down to fit inside the inner section of the emitter.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/002.jpg

Here's the spacer on the light tube. I will have to trim off the excess light tube, and replace the plastic LED base on the inside with an aluminum base I can screw into.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/003.jpg

Here it is assembled, I think the tiny aluminum spacer will not detract from the look of the saber too much.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/004.jpg

Here's the saber lit. I know I have the wrong color, but this is a broken Vader force FX I scavenged just to see if the parts would fit. The controller board is sitting in the grenade, and instead of 3 AA batteries, I am powering it with 3 AAA batteries. These will fit stacked inside the hollow aluminum booster.

I have a good idea how to attach the emitter to the grenade solidly enough that it won't be flimsy, and still use the "correct" windvane neck from Russ. Wiring will have to be changed out a bit to fit inside the neck, but it's doable. Meaning I will have to relocate the clash sensor, and with those two wires not going through the neck, I can feed the rest through a drilled out 5/8 threaded rod.

At this point I had it worked out pretty much except for the pommel end, and was still sketching that out, but it was easier to solve than the emitter.

To do the emitter end, I decided to create an anchoring piece of metal that really solidifies in the emitter... kind of like this...

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/005.jpg

The aluminum plug will really help solidify the blade to the emitter.. I will need to trim out some of the diffuser element from the blade, and thread the plug for 5/8 threaded rod.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/006.jpg

Here I have it fit together, and see my plug is too long, and has no recess to let the emitter end of the windvane neck to sit inside. I will shorten the plug and lathe out a recess for the neck section.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/007.jpg

Here is the key to the project, a hollowed out 5/8 threaded rod that I will pass the LED string wires through. The aluminum plug is threaded for this rod, and will act as a nut to tighten to once it's assembled.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/008.jpg

Here is the windvane/emitter section assembled... Note the hollow threaded rod keeping it all together and the new recess in the aluminum plug that keeps it straight and tight.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/009.jpg

Emitter end. The step down is to secure up into the blade to allow the metal to come up a bit past where the internal diffuser plastic tube is.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/010.jpg

Just about right, as far as I can tell, on spacing for the emitter to windvane neck. I will drill and tap for screws here forward of the weathring line on the emitter section, these screws will completely solidify the blade, neck, plug, etc.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/011.jpg

Here, I don't have the anchoring screws in the emitter yet but this already feels so great to hold. It looks so much better than an MR saber already, and I can tell there's no wobble in the blade, and it will be much moreso when I get it all screwed down.

I just got two of the rebelscum calc strips! Once I get them whittled down to fit, I'll post pics. But for now, LEDS!

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/012.jpg
The first ten LEDs in the ladder string soldered. That was tedious. Huge thanks to this forum for the knowhow to do this.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/013.jpg
A closeup of the soldering job. I bent the leads over the next LED in the chain, crimped, and snipped the excess, then a very small bead of solder to secure it together, while keeping everything as straight as I could.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/014.jpg
Preassembled for wire length and fit, and just so I could see what it looked like lit up. I think once I get the LED string moved a bit closer to the emitter to get rid of that slightly dim spot at the base, and the other 54 LEDs soldered up, this saber is going to be one I am very happy with.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/015.jpg
I decided to do a little work on this project last night, I found a scrap piece of delrin to attempt the battery holder/speaker housing, and it turned out to BARELY fit. Three AAA batteries fit inside the delrin tube, which is threaded at the end for the sink knob pommel, and widens out to 1 inch to hold the speaker, with enough room for a resonance chamber behind the speaker to pump up the volume a good deal. The graflex clamp fits snug on that wider spot, with cuts for the tabs to lock in. I'll probably go back and make this piece out of aluminum for stability.
http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/016.jpg
The obnoxious switch hanging out of the top of the graflex clamp is temporary till I figure out how to hide a switch in there. I am very happy that I was able to cram all that stuff into such limited space, and still hold true to the accuracy of the saber. I did have to harvest the pommel off my original saber to test, but I think I can come up with a suitable replacement.
The saber is BRIGHT and LOUD, moreso than a stock master replicas Force FX saber. I will wait till I have a bit of extra cash and finish out the LEDs in the blade, and then it will be time to weather it to match my first saber.

[Rafalema]

That is freacking awesome

[FenderBender]

Another First post winner! Great job! Please keep us posted on the progress.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Wow. Nice! I'll look forward to seeing you finish this build.

There are ways of hiding a switch in the clamp. Look around at some of the builds from LDM, for example.

[FenderBender]

Yeah, a tactile momentary switch and a Lighthound PCB will do the trick;)

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Yeah, look at any of my sabers with G-flex clamps. If you have specific questions, feel free to PM me.

[Enolmano]

I envy your smartness.

[Zook]

Great job.

Also the pololu momentary to latching switch set up would be great. It has a very slender switch included (you don't have to mount it on the board) which will fit in the clamp nicely. The board is very small and will fit most anywhere.

You will want the LV one

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/751

Hope its OK to post that here Tim.

Its a little more than the lighthound set up though. Either way will work great.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Very nice indeed. Awesome job.

[cardcollector]

Dude! I am impressed by your ingenuity! props to you!:cool:

[Et Kin Evenstar]

Standing ovation!

[cannibal869]

Very nice build! Thanks for posting - looking forward to seeing the final product!

[slothfurnace]

Wow, thanks everyone!

I really do appreciate everything that was said about my project, and all the valuable information in this forum.

Tossing out the stock MR LED string and building my own never would have happened had I not seen this forum, and big thanks to the custom saber shop for making parts available.

I have a lot to learn about batteries, recharging, etc. But I think I am well on my way to making a nice piece for myself.

Right now I have carefully soldered three AAA batteries together to power the thing, but I will want to go rechargeable for a more permanent solution.

I am not sure what to get for that yet, but I will keep scouring the forums to find out if anyone else has done a rechargeable internal battery pack with port running an MR (vader) soundboard, with progressive lighting of an LED string with the Makototsai V3 LEDs like what I am using.

Again, thanks much for the kind words and suggestions, please, if you guys see anything I am missing, I would benefit greatly from the experience of those who have been there before me.

[ARKM]

Very nice work. Awesome Obi Hilt.

[Eco]

This, my good sir, is an incredibly epic first build.

[psab keel]

I couldn't exactly offer any suggestions, other than to keep making amazing sabers! That is a thing of beauty and I can only imagine how amazing your sabers are going to look when you build a few more!

Fantastic work my friend!

Psab

[Jay-gon Jinn]

This is a fantastic saber! My favorite part is in this picture, and might be intentional or not:
http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/016.jpg
The bottom edge of the blade is visible underneath the emitter, and it's lit up! Too cool!

[Caine Drathul]

This is going to to be an epic Obi...I very much look forward to this completed...great job so far!

[sekrogue1985]

wow very impressive work there!

[slothfurnace]

This is a fantastic saber! My favorite part is in this picture, and might be intentional or not:
http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/016.jpg
The bottom edge of the blade is visible underneath the emitter, and it's lit up! Too cool!

Thanks much!

Yes, once I figured out I could house the blade in the emitter, I made pains to make sure it came all the way back. Not only is it more stable that way, it does offer that cool blue lit ring around it, which is a great effect, in my opinion.

I also am considering some additional blue LEDs in a diffused setup inside the outer shroud, haven't ruled that out yet either.

[Count Malik]

total epicness!!! 8)

[slothfurnace]

Yeah, look at any of my sabers with G-flex clamps. If you have specific questions, feel free to PM me.

Thanks much, LDM, I'd love to ask you a couple questions.

Your work is inspiring, and has helped push me along on this project. Thanks!

[DJMoonbass]

slothfurnace:

as a student studying machining and design engineering. i have to say i absolutley love your work on this hilt. your design on this hilt is absolutley brilliant and one of the best custom obis ive seen in a long time (next to LDMs MK111 of coarse)

your machine work is clean and top quality and your design works brillinatly. very well thought out, designed, and built. i too am astounded by the awesomeness of how you mounted the blade to shine through, once again amazing work. with your appearant apptitude in hilt design mixed with some knowledge of electronics that will come from here. you will become a great sabersmith.

in the words of palpatine: "i shall watch your career with great interest"

welcome to the forum buddy. if you have any questions on machining how to's, tips and special tricks ive learned, shoot me a PM id be happy to help.

[slothfurnace]

slothfurnace:

as a student studying machining and design engineering. i have to say i absolutley love your work on this hilt. your design on this hilt is absolutley brilliant and one of the best custom obis ive seen in a long time (next to LDMs MK111 of coarse)

your machine work is clean and top quality and your design works brillinatly. very well thought out, designed, and built. i too am astounded by the awesomeness of how you mounted the blade to shine through, once again amazing work. with your appearant apptitude in hilt design mixed with some knowledge of electronics that will come from here. you will become a great sabersmith.

in the words of palpatine: "i shall watch your career with great interest"

welcome to the forum buddy. if you have any questions on machining how to's, tips and special tricks ive learned, shoot me a PM id be happy to help.

Hey thanks! I appreciate that. I am a hobby machinist, and have a lathe in the garage, and have been tinkering with this project (in my mind) for about a year, waiting till I have all the pieces laid out mentally before I started on it.

It's not my first saber, but it is my first bladed one...

My first...

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/Saber-ObiType-101.jpg

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/Saber-ObiType-102.jpg

Second...

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/SaberIII/SaberIII_Lighting_01.jpg

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/SaberIII/SaberIII_Lighting_02.jpg

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/SaberIII/SaberIII_Lighting_03.jpg


Third...

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ObiANHSaber/WithMRReplica.jpg

And website of my portfolio, containing the rest of my machined objects and game development artworks...

http://www.nonentity.com/

[cannibal869]

wow... those are all sorts of WIN:cool:

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Thanks much, LDM, I'd love to ask you a couple questions.

Your work is inspiring, and has helped push me along on this project. Thanks!

Thank you very much. I love to see someone produce such beautiful work as well! Keep it up!!!!

I can also help you get your rechargeable battery solution all set up. PM me when you are ready. I am on the RPF as well, but I am here more often.;)

[DJMoonbass]

wow nice site dude

[Sairon]

Somebody has found a way to the force, you are very awesome my friend. Awe inspiring sabers, very nice job.

[FenderBender]

Your second saber is delicious. It deserves a blade and sound. You should revisit that one:D

[Crystal Chambers]

Your second saber is delicious. It deserves a blade and sound. You should revisit that one:D

Wait a second. I second that!....regarding the second that is. Your replica is really nice but obviously you've got some design skill as well. Can't wait to see one of your customs fully come to life.

[cannibal869]

Hey slothfurnace,
Just wondering - in order to get the blade recessed like that into the emitter and have it glow from the backside, does that mean that 1) the blade is permanent and/or 2) that the emitter is glued on / floating onto the blade?

Either way, like others have said, this is a truly EPIC Obi-Wan and I humbly bow down to your skillz

Oh and if you don't mind, would you kindly fix the link to your arc reactor pictures? ;):cool:

[Garek Telgan]

I think the most impressive part is your photography. It's almost like its the real thing. Amazing quality.

[slothfurnace]

Hey slothfurnace,
Just wondering - in order to get the blade recessed like that into the emitter and have it glow from the backside, does that mean that 1) the blade is permanent and/or 2) that the emitter is glued on / floating onto the blade?

Either way, like others have said, this is a truly EPIC Obi-Wan and I humbly bow down to your skillz

Oh and if you don't mind, would you kindly fix the link to your arc reactor pictures? ;):cool:


The blade is permanent on this saber, the emitter is screwed down, no glue was used.

Also, the arc reactor link is fixed, sorry bout that.

So with the second saber:

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/SaberIII/SaberIII_Lighting_01.jpg

I could probably use what I have learned on the Obi to retain the thin neck, add a blade, possibly removable? I have plenty of room to add a setscrew, and I wouldn't even have to make it hidden.

I assume I have plenty of room in the back of the hilt for speaker and battery, etc, and a switch from the sabershop should fit in the middle.

Recharge port, too, in the back.

Hm. What color blade, red? LEDString or SeoulP4/Luxeon?

Oh, also, LDM, as soon as my post count gets up to a spot I can, I will PM you about battery packing the OBI saber, Thanks!

[Darth Xanthus]

Forgive if I find it hard to post while drooling.....:shock:

[ARKM]

So with the second saber:

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/SaberIII/SaberIII_Lighting_01.jpg

Light... shining on the blade holder neck from the hilt? What the...? How? Frikkin' awesome!

[Jin Ke]

Wow dude... You have some mad skills..... Great saber, and awesome site! :)

[Darth Xanthus]

Light... shining on the blade holder neck from the hilt? What the...? How? Frikkin' awesome!


Yeah, I did not even see that when I posted my first reply.

I love that!

I must have a saber with that feature!

SOOO AWESOME!

[slothfurnace]

Hey guys... some progress on this saber now that I have found myself a job.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/017.jpg

First off, I needed to strip any rust off the grenade. There was some light surface rust, and I used a wire brush in my dremel to shine it up for bluing.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/018.jpg

I'll be using Birchwood Casey Super Blue on the grenade. This will be the first time I have tried this particular product.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/019.jpg

If you do this, make sure to use rubber gloves and do this in a well ventilated area. This is some noxious stuff, so it's not for kids.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/020.jpg

That white residue is bad news, I blast it off with some high pressure cold water.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/021.jpg

After a few cycles through the chemical and knocking the gunk off that is generated, a nice dark blue is left. I need to let this rust a bit, but it's well on the way to matching my other saber.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/023.jpg

Afterwards I will weather and darken the windvane, right now it's too pristine.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/022.jpg

Next up is the emitter section. I have two complete emitters to work with, and I chose the unweathered cleaner outer section to go with. This will be easier to clean up and then hit with the Super Blue for darkening.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/024.jpg

After using the same process from the grenade on the emitter, I chuck it up in the lathe and use some extra fine sandpaper to clean it back down, leaving nice darkened weathering in the crevices.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/025.jpg

I left more darkened blued finish on the inside emitter section.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/026.jpg

I still may need to work on this area, as it's not quite as close to my other saber as I'd like.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/027.jpg

Also the windvane brass black didn't take hold quite as well as the other saber. I might have to break it down again and redo that part, but it will work for now.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/028.jpg

Much closer to my first saber. I still need to add some rust and tweak some values, but I think it's much closer now. The next challenge is hiding the on off switch, and to hide a speaker volume knob someplace. Probably use one of the transistors as a volume control.

I am also still awaiting my pommel from a run off the RPF.

[ARKM]

Very nice.

[cardcollector]

DUDE!!! You should post pictures more often, your composition is amazing.
Your subject matter is pretty nice to.;)

Oh, I went to your website. I love the inkpens, you have a gift...

[Skottsaber]

Looks great! What exactly is blueing?

[slothfurnace]

Looks great! What exactly is blueing?

Bluing is the process of adding a protective layer of oxidation to steel. Mainly used in gun manufacturing and such, similar to anodization of aluminum.

[Aradian Valentine]

omg!
marry me!

[slothfurnace]

omg!
marry me!

Lol, I don't think I can do that. But maybe you'll accept this pic instead.

http://www.nonentity.com/new/images/projects/ANHobifx/029.jpg

[cardcollector]

Ahoh!! more!! more!!:cool:

[slothfurnace]

Ahoh!! more!! more!!:cool:

hah, ok...

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ObiANHSaber/Saber4Emitter.jpg

Still working on this one as well. Not sure what to do with it, if it needs a blade, or what.

[cannibal869]

I gotta say.....

this thread is kinda like lightsaber pr0n ;)

[Darth Midian]

WOW, great work. I really like saber # 2. Really great job.

[cardcollector]

hah, ok...

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ObiANHSaber/Saber4Emitter.jpg

Still working on this one as well. Not sure what to do with it, if it needs a blade, or what.

This is my new desktop background....

[slothfurnace]

Well, it's the weekend, and I have had a bit of time to work on this saber.

This post, we look at the switch.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/030.jpg

It's installed! Can you see it? It's hiding in the vertical slot in the graflex clamp.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/031.jpg

I found a tiny metal toggle switch in my parts bin that fit that slot perfectly. I just had to come up with a way to offset it inside the saber so that its arc of movement would be as close to the curvature of the graflex clamp as possible, while still giving me enough to work with to turn it on and off.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/032.jpg

To do that I raided my parts bin again, and while looking for a round piece of tubing I could mount it to, I ran across this section of shelf track. Turns out, it was the perfect distance of offset, and then all I had to do was cut it to fit inside the speaker section and grenade clamp once it was all assembled.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/033.jpg

The task of keeping it pushed up against the wall of the clamp was accomplished via a large spring set on a screw tied into the shelf track section.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/034.jpg

I also had to solder a plug onto the switch so I could easily remove it for maintenance. One more trip to the parts bin yielded a three prong blue plug, which is adequate.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/035.jpg

I suppose the next step is to think about a volume control for the speaker, and some way to get a rechargeable battery setup. The temporary AAA rig I have in there is already beginning to lose power.

LDM, I know you suggested a 4 AAA rechargeable setup, but I only have room enough for 3 AAAs in the booster section. Believe me, I wish I had more room, but this project is putting my cram-fu to the test.

I think I will incorporate a custom machined volume knob and recharge port where the transistors are. And possibly machine the knob and the recharge port plug to match the contour and diameter of the transistors that were used in this saber.


::::Edit::::

I finally figured out where I can stash my fourth rechargeable AAA battery!

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/036.jpg

Now I can start thinking about my recharge port and charging system. Hey LDM, I need to start working out a recharging setup. What do you suggest as far as a recharging station? Depending on the battery I choose, do the rechargers available on the TCSS shop do the job? Meaning, do they know when to shut off charging for four rechargeable AAA batteries? I know this has been solved many times here before, but this will be my first one, and I want to make sure I do it justice.

Thanks everyone!

[cannibal869]

You, sir, have a very nice... camera...

and some mad saber building skills!

I was almost literally using my hand to close my open jaw at those pics. Strong use of the jury rigging and cram fu (although I'm still not sure about that 4th battery hanging out like that).

Either way bravo!

[Et Kin Evenstar]

Good golly, Miss Molly! I bow down to the awesomeness....

[Rhyen Skytracker]

I really like the way you rigged up a toggle switch in the clamp. Once again, AWESOME JOB!!! BTW, what kind of camera do you have? I am in need for a new one and I need one that will take good pics of sabers.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Coming along very well! You have a PM.;)

[slothfurnace]

I really like the way you rigged up a toggle switch in the clamp. Once again, AWESOME JOB!!! BTW, what kind of camera do you have? I am in need for a new one and I need one that will take good pics of sabers.

The camera I use is a Nikon P90, relatively inexpensive. However, it has an insanely good macro mode, as well as a telephoto mode that REALLY reaches out there, all in the same lens. No swapping out.

Also, I use good soft lighting and a tripod. Tripod is a MUST.

[Ryan S]

i don't often post or even comment on many threads
but MAN your OB1 saber is SWEEEEEET:p, I gotta build one!
I'm envious
great work!

[KuroChou]

This thread makes me weep for the loss of my DSLR, as well as pray for unrestricted access to the family shop.
(It's far better equipped than the high school, and will let me produce at a far greater quality--on my own time).

You're not just an inspiration to the hobby.
It's this caliber of work that takes what we do into the realms of "profession" and "art form."

Well done.

[slothfurnace]

This thread makes me weep for the loss of my DSLR, as well as pray for unrestricted access to the family shop.
(It's far better equipped than the high school, and will let me produce at a far greater quality--on my own time).

You're not just an inspiration to the hobby.
It's this caliber of work that takes what we do into the realms of "profession" and "art form."

Well done.

Thanks so much, It's been a labor of love, and a mountain of things to learn and figure out, but it's very close to being done.

Last night, I got the rechargeable batteries and charger in the mail, soldered up my battery pack, three in the hilt, one in the grenade tube, and fired it up to see if it worked..

http://www.nonentity.com/new/images/projects/ANHobifx/037.jpg

Yes indeedy, it works fine! Next step is to hide the recharge port in there, and a couple minor cosmetic things, and I think she's done!

http://www.nonentity.com/new/images/projects/ANHobifx/038.jpg

It's SO MUCH BRIGHTER than a stock MR ForceFX. I am very pleased. I do have one question though. Should I place a resistor on the power circuit, or can the MR board handle 4.8 volts instead of the 4.5 it wants without damage?

I am also going to wedge a rumble pak in there. I found a pager motor in my parts bin that works well without causing interference or static in the speaker.

[Skottsaber]

WOW!


And the FX boards can take a max. of 6v, but I don't recommend it. 4.8v is perfect.

[slothfurnace]

WOW!


And the FX boards can take a max. of 6v, but I don't recommend it. 4.8v is perfect.

Well, I don't think I can fit another battery in there anyway, so 4.8 is how it'll stay.

Just curious, what happens if you drive it with 6?

[chaos]

If you go over 6v the board will fry. Of all the MR powered custom sabers I have, and I have a few, all of them are powered by 6v and all of them are fine.

[slothfurnace]

If you go over 6v the board will fry. Of all the MR powered custom sabers I have, and I have a few, all of them are powered by 6v and all of them are fine.

So running it at 6v versus 4.8 just means longer charge life, or brighter LEDs/Louder sound?

I will probably leave this one at 4.8 but I am wondering for my next saber.

[Skottsaber]

Powering it with 6v, you would have to use alkalines which are not rechargable. Using the 4.8v NiMH setup would be rechargable, which is why I prefer it. ;)

[slothfurnace]

Here's an update folks.

After having the saber complete for a while, I was worried that I had a weak spot in the battery casing, as it was made of plastic, and I needed to move the speaker a bit further back to account for my recharge port, I decided to make a new battery casing from aluminum.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/039.jpg

I was able to set the batteries a bit further back, as well as the speaker, which gave me enough room to put the recharge port where the rear transistor is usually located.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/041.jpg

The aluminum is stronger, and fits better, both with the booster section, and the graflex clamp.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/042.jpg

I cut the groove for the inside tab of the clamp with my dremel, and it fits it very well. When I rotate the clamp into place, it has a satisfying snap.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/043.jpg

I was also able to make sure my pommel was correctly oriented when tightened down, which is an improvement over my previous battery casing. This is me machining the threaded rod that holds the pommel to the casing.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/040.jpg

As you can see, the batteries are a snug fit, there's a double layer of electrical tape on the bottom, and I will line the top as well to keep any shorts from happening.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/044.jpg

I cut two notches with the dremel out and around the speaker, so that I'd have a place to run my wires.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/045.jpg

Everything went together great, solid, clean, etc. Then, Calamity strikes!

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/046.jpg

I tested the charger on the batteries with the alligator clips that came with the charger, and it worked fine. I soldered in the port for the charger, and made a plug to fit, tested it, and it didn't.

I don't know if I had my wires crossed, or if there was a short, but about 15 seconds after I plugged it in, smoke started pouring out of the saber, and I quickly disconnected everything and dumped the batteries out.

Luckily, the soundboard is fine, LEDs are fine, but it just melted some wiring and ruptured a couple batteries.

I have no idea what went wrong here, but after about 30 minutes of being discouraged, I think I'll go ahead and order another speaker, and a set of batteries and try again. As far as I can tell I think I had a short against the recharge port, or worse, completely had my wires crossed.

[slothfurnace]

Well, I put in an order for a new speaker and new batteries, and while I wait on that, will attempt to perfect my wiring, as I think that was my problem. As far as I can tell, I had an exposed wire that grounded out when I plugged in the charger, and it went kaput.

So now, I am going to attempt to harden my wiring job, so that there's no chance of short, make it efficient and clean and try and get it right in hopes of things running smoothly when I get my fresh battery pack built.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/047.jpg

Before, I had two or three different plugs, different plug styles, and a confusing array of wires going through the graflex clamp. Here I have a round PCB from radio shack, (more on that later) that I am passing all my connections through. The stock plug from the Force FX Soundboard had removeable internal tabs, so I lifted those out and soldered them to my header pins on the back of my round PCB.


http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/048.jpg

Here the connections are soldered and heatshrink applied. (not shrunk yet) This will isolate each connection and make sure there's no shorting.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/049.jpg

Here you can see the plug for the LED string, once plugged in, I coil these wires up and fit them further down into the grenade.
I also wrapped the edges of the Force FX board with electrical tape to insulate them from the steel grenade, and provide a snugger fit.

Also underneath the FX Board, you can see my fourth rechargeable AAA battery. I pass its connections through the round PCB so that I can connect it up with the main battery pack.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/050.jpg

The wires for the switch loop through the hole in the FX board, around the main power lines to keep them snug and to one side to leave room for the battery, and then the switch wires go back out the same hole, and over to the PCB header.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/051.jpg

Now you see why I have this round PCB from radio shack. After buzzing out only the threads from this end of the grenade on the lathe, this PCB fits right into the recess.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/052.jpg

All said and done, it will be a (hopefully) foolproof design, clean and simple, and easy to get apart and back together for any maintenance.

My order for batteries and speaker should get here wednesday, or sooner. And I hope to be done with this guy by next Monday.

edit:

I need to know if this is correct as far as wiring goes...

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/053.jpg

[mihunai]

This thing just keeps getting better and better!

Not sure if the wiring is correct, but love sketch there.

Wait a sec, is that round thing next to the recharge port the speaker?
Cause shouldnt be connected, methinks...

EDIT: Turns out methinks wrong.
Pro's, step in and help him out, would you ;)

mTm

[cardcollector]

This thing deserves a CF!!! I love it!

[Rafalema]

Mihunai, I think that he will be fine with the speaker over there. the MRFX boards use the same lead for speaker+ + and board +.

[slothfurnace]

Mihunai, I think that he will be fine with the speaker over there. the MRFX boards use the same lead for speaker+ + and board +.

Thanks for the info, I think that's exactly what I will do..

Here's a minor update, maybe not so minor. I got one of my transistors installed tonight...

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/054.jpg

"But wait, sloth, isn't that kind of boring? Don't you have something else to show for yourself?"

Why yes, why don't you pull that transistor out. Give a firm tug.







http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/055.jpg

That's right, it hides the recharge port. I found a vintage transistor, hollowed it out, shortened it, made a non conductive plug out of delrin, and glued it on the inside of the transistor cap.

Yes, I know if I plug it in there it will act as a killswitch, that's why there's a slot on one side. It is a killswitch if I turn it 90 degrees, and not a killswitch if I insert it with the gap over the switch terminal on the inside of the port.

I also lathed down the nut that came with the port to fit inside a groove I cut into the transistor washer I got from someplace.

Eagerly awaiting my replacement batteries, I am meticulously soldering and insulating all my connections.

[cannibal869]

Dude, the transistor recharge port is EPIC!!!

Two big thumbs up!

EDIT: If I might, though, what lens are you using? Cause I wanna get one similar for my D60!!

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Heatshrink those 3 batteries in the radiator section (the ends too) and you will not short the pack out against the speaker magnet again.;)

Look at the build pix of (crud I didn't post that saber here ;))...

just look at these pix:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll317/drdicarlo/JSS%20andLDM%20Obi%20ish%20saber%20for%20ObiWanKen obi/102_5892.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll317/drdicarlo/Obi%20Saberkit%20MK%20IIIs/Mustafar%20V4%20O%20with%20CF4pt3/102_6647.jpg

[slothfurnace]

Heatshrink those 3 batteries in the radiator section (the ends too) and you will not short the pack out against the speaker magnet again.;)

Look at the build pix of (crud I didn't post that saber here ;))...

just look at these pix:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll317/drdicarlo/JSS%20andLDM%20Obi%20ish%20saber%20for%20ObiWanKen obi/102_5892.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll317/drdicarlo/Obi%20Saberkit%20MK%20IIIs/Mustafar%20V4%20O%20with%20CF4pt3/102_6647.jpg

Aha!

I see. Great advice, LDM. I will do so. I have enough material left in the battery casing to hollow out a bit to make room for the heatshrink.

Also, should I worry about insulating the recharge port against the graflex clamp? I notice the metal touching the ground part of the recharge plug is in direct contact with the clamp. It's what's being threaded through the nut, you know what I mean.

Anything t o worry about there, as long as I make sure I have no possible way of a hot wire grounding out?

[ARKM]

I am totally blown away by this build. Very awesome job so far.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Those 2.1mm ports can be picky, but as long as you heatshrink the connections between the wires and the tabs on the port you should be fine.

[Matt Thorn]

Wait...

This is your first illuminated saber build? Ever? :shock:

But you have made replica hilts before, right? Obviously, you came to this project with a huge range of skills. But what impresses me most is the innovation. You really think outside the box. I doubt that even our most experienced sabersmiths could read your build journal and not come away with some fresh ideas. To be perfectly honest, it fills me with intense jealousy, which you should take as a high compliment. I predict this thread will remain a rich mine of information for a long time to come.

[slothfurnace]

Wait...

This is your first illuminated saber build? Ever? :shock:

But you have made replica hilts before, right? Obviously, you came to this project with a huge range of skills. But what impresses me most is the innovation. You really think outside the box. I doubt that even our most experienced sabersmiths could read your build journal and not come away with some fresh ideas. To be perfectly honest, it fills me with intense jealousy, which you should take as a high compliment. I predict this thread will remain a rich mine of information for a long time to come.

Yes, this is my first saber hilt that does anything. Previous to this one I built a non electronic Obi ANH saber, and before that, I fooled around with a couple that I never finished or cared too much for.

I am hoping to finish this saber by the end of the week, and perhaps think about a Luke Jedi V2 with this same setup. But I don't know yet, I am focused on finishing this one to the best of my ability at the moment.

I am still learning, and am trying to figure out if I should do a different soundboard for my next project, or even an upgrade to this one, but at this point I think I am likely to leave the MR board in this hilt.

I do hope to add a rumble pak (pager motor) with on/off switch and a volume control on there someplace, but I am running out of places to hide controls.

[je-rel drood]

My head just exploded.

And I have a new background on my computer.

and if my heart weren't already given away to my saber, Sonata, I'd have asked you to marry me, or at least time share with Adirian Valentine.

As it is, I'll sit back in drooling awe of your incredible saber-fu AND photography skills.

[slothfurnace]

My head just exploded.

And I have a new background on my computer.

and if my heart weren't already given away to my saber, Sonata, I'd have asked you to marry me, or at least time share with Adirian Valentine.

As it is, I'll sit back in drooling awe of your incredible saber-fu AND photography skills.

Haha, thanks much!

As far as marriage proposals go, I no longer accept those as of seven years ago, but I appreciate the sentiment. :)

With this saber, I set out to attempt something nobody had done before, and something that I thought might not even be possible. I am hoping that at the end of this project, at least some of what I attempted works.

Thanks to everyone who has helped me and encouraged me along the way.

[slothfurnace]

Internal wiring update!

I got everything squared away, unfortunately no batteries arrived in the mail today, so I wait yet again. But here's my completed internal wiring setup...


http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/056.jpg

Everything is trimmed, soldered, heatshrunk and electrical taped. In that order.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/057.jpg

There is just enough slack in the wiring to allow the wide plug to come out enough to be able to get hold of for plugging into the grenade section, but not so much wire that it binds up on anything once it's plugged in and set back into the clamp.

[slothfurnace]

Eureka!

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/058.jpg

Today, I got my batteries in the mail and quickly soldered them together to test to see if all the rest of my electro-fu was good to go. Turns out at this point, so far, it was!

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/059.jpg

Here is the result of tonight's work. heatshrunk and insulated the batteries, hollowed out the battery compartment a few thousandths of an inch to compensate for insulation thickness, ran a new plug between battery pack and control box, made that plug out of several others ( I wanted the colors to match, so I interchanges the crimped connections inside the plug till I got what I was looking for) I also used the stock MR speaker grille, cut it to fit the inside (so the charge port doesn't touch) and made sure all that was nice and snug.

And, set my wires a certain way so that they are retracted when the saber is assembled, but extend when it's not, it's sort of an S coil around the switch, so that when you pull either plug, the wires extend, when you push them in, they retract, keeping everything nice and neat.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/060.jpg

And the CHARGING CIRCUIT HASN'T CAUGHT FIRE YET! I think I am home free, folks. We're doing a smoke test (ha) right now, but it's not hot, smoking, smelly, etc.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/061.jpg

And boy is she beautiful!

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Very, very awesome saber. Great job and you know you must build more and they have to be better than this one. You really have your work cut out for you. LOL

[Matt Thorn]

Even the insides are beautiful. This is, like, MadCow/Yoda level perfectionism. (Dare I say "anal retentiveness"?)

And, set my wires a certain way so that they are retracted when the saber is assembled, but extend when it's not, it's sort of an S coil around the switch, so that when you pull either plug, the wires extend, when you push them in, they retract, keeping everything nice and neat.
You must elaborate on this. I think I know what you mean, but I'm not sure. You're not talking about some kind of gadget, are you?

And that is wicked bright. What is the mcd and viewing angle of the LEDs you used for the ladder? Since you're using a Force FX board, I assume you retained the scrolling effect, right? Do you get "hotspotting" (alternating bright and dark patches)? I've worked with a few LED ladders from The Company Which Must Not Be Named, and always had trouble getting good enough diffusion to hide the hotspotting. What are you using for diffusion?

Rhyen has a point: How the heck are you going to top yourself next time?

My intense skill-envy is the highest compliment I can offer.

Blue Fox, if you're reading this, we have got to get that "special" saber finished, girl. :???:

[ARKM]

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/061.jpg

Mmm. Tasty blue goodness. *drools*

[slothfurnace]

Thank you guys so much.

I will elaborate on my coiled wires this evening, I'll take a pic. But here's some more beauty shots.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/062.jpg

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/063.jpg

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/064.jpg

[Skottsaber]

Dibs on the next one!

(Seriously, dude. Are you like... I dunno, LDM's cousin? Fender's long lost brother? Perhaps a nephew of Yoda?)

[Matt Thorn]

That is drop-dead gorgeous. Am I right in thinking the blade is not detachable?

[slothfurnace]

That is drop-dead gorgeous. Am I right in thinking the blade is not detachable?

Correct, it's not detachable. I had considered that feature early on, but I didn't want to undermine the stability of the blade.

I may revisit a detachable blade with LED string in the future.

[slothfurnace]

One more minor update:

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/065.jpg

I added the volume and rumblepak on/off switch. The volume is hooked up and works fine (I just spliced it in to the speaker wire on the back of the circular panel) and the rumblepak on off switch is there for when I install the pager motor.

I also cut a notch and tapped a hole for a setscrew to keep the header panel in place.

Oh, I forgot to answer your questions, Matt...


Even the insides are beautiful. This is, like, MadCow/Yoda level perfectionism. (Dare I say "anal retentiveness"?)

Perfection can never be achieved, but excellence should be reached for. I am making this for me, therefore I am trying to make it as best I can. Course, if it were a commission, I would go a few extra miles. I am humbled to be spoken of in the same sentance as veteran builders, I do appreciate it.


You must elaborate on this. I think I know what you mean, but I'm not sure. You're not talking about some kind of gadget, are you?

Ok, basically, it is this. My wires from the front curl under and up over the spring that holds the switch to the side. The wires going to the back curl the opposite way, forming a kind of S shape with the spring at t he middle. When I pull the plugs out on either side, the wires kind of "unwrap" to let me have more slack to plug in. Once they go in, they kind of "coil up" around that central part as the saber is assembled.


And that is wicked bright. What is the mcd and viewing angle of the LEDs you used for the ladder? Since you're using a Force FX board, I assume you retained the scrolling effect, right? Do you get "hotspotting" (alternating bright and dark patches)? I've worked with a few LED ladders from The Company Which Must Not Be Named, and always had trouble getting good enough diffusion to hide the hotspotting. What are you using for diffusion?

I don't know what the candlepower and angle is of these, they are Makototsai blue V3 LEDs, 68 of them, in a ladder string. Yes, I have the scrolling effect, and it's nice. I do not have any hotspotting with this blade, I can't really tell any spot that's dim. For the grounding sections, I used EXTREMELY thin light colored wire (pulled off ribboncable) to complete the circuit back to the board. I do have an idea of something that will work better, but that's for my next saber.


Rhyen has a point: How the heck are you going to top yourself next time?

Oh, I don't know yet. I want to do something nobody's done before, possibly a Luke V2 removeable blade with LED string, correct neck, etc. Maybe someone has done that already, I don't know.


My intense skill-envy is the highest compliment I can offer.

I am very grateful, thank you.

[Matt Thorn]

"One more minor update"? Now you're just rubbing our noses in it. Such elegance! The speaker on/off switch I recently made just sort of hangs there inside the pommel. I am definitely stealing your PCB trick. But that PCB looks homemade. Really dumb question: How did you cut it in a perfect circle of the right diameter?

This is just my opinion, but I think adding a rumble pack would be like adding a rhinestone tiara to the Mona Lisa. She doesn't need it. But then again, I've never seen the appeal of rumble packs in sabers, unless you're going for steampunk look.

The curling wires are what I imagined.

I bought some green HB LEDs (60º, 7000-9000mcd) a few months ago to make a ladder, but haven't tackled it yet. One concern I've had is hiding the wires, particularly down towards the pommel, where you have the most wires. The ideal would be to mount them on a thin, white PCB, like the kind used in Force FX and Parks blades, but all the DIY PCB kits I've ever seen use thick boards. :?

So you get no hotspotting? And for diffusion you are using...?

Sorry to batter you with yet more questions.

[slothfurnace]

"One more minor update"? Now you're just rubbing our noses in it. Such elegance! The speaker on/off switch I recently made just sort of hangs there inside the pommel. I am definitely stealing your PCB trick. But that PCB looks homemade. Really dumb question: How did you cut it in a perfect circle of the right diameter?

That PCB came in a pack of round PCBS of various diameters from RadioShack. I had to chuck up the grenade into the lathe and peel just a tad of material out from the inside of the grenade, where the rear threads were.


This is just my opinion, but I think adding a rumble pack would be like adding a rhinestone tiara to the Mona Lisa. She doesn't need it. But then again, I've never seen the appeal of rumble packs in sabers, unless you're going for steampunk look.


When I say rumblepak, I mean a pager vibrator motor hidden inside the structure of the saber, so it provides a slight vibration (hopefully in sync with the audio)


I bought some green HB LEDs (60º, 7000-9000mcd) a few months ago to make a ladder, but haven't tackled it yet. One concern I've had is hiding the wires, particularly down towards the pommel, where you have the most wires. The ideal would be to mount them on a thin, white PCB, like the kind used in Force FX and Parks blades, but all the DIY PCB kits I've ever seen use thick boards. :?

All my wires that come from the grounding stages of the LED string converge under the first LED, and again, they are SUPER thin. I mentioned I have an idea for a better way to ground my LED stages so as to lose no light, but I need to test it first.


So you get no hotspotting? And for diffusion you are using...?

I am using the stock diffusion setup from the MR Vader saber I harvested the soundboard from.

Hope that helps!

[sks1138]

Just read this whole thread. Very beautiful saber. Nice work.

[slothfurnace]

Just read this whole thread. Very beautiful saber. Nice work.

Thanks very much!

I think, that unless I get a wild hair to do something else to it, I believe it's done.

Here it is with the rest of the crew.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/066.jpg

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Lovely Crew. Well done my man !!!!:D

[Skottsaber]

WOW!
Are all the others stock FX?

(Is it just me... or do you REALLY love a) The OT and b) Clamps?)

[Caden]

Finally a post during school! Bwahaha

So, for a first build, that is straight up wicked awesome. Shoot, for any build, that is wicked awesome. Those two Graflex style sabers are pretty nice too. I always had a soft spot for a Graflex.

[slothfurnace]

WOW!
Are all the others stock FX?

(Is it just me... or do you REALLY love a) The OT and b) Clamps?)

I do love the OT more than the new stuff. And yes, clamps are for the win.


Finally a post during school! Bwahaha

So, for a first build, that is straight up wicked awesome. Shoot, for any build, that is wicked awesome. Those two Graflex style sabers are pretty nice too. I always had a soft spot for a Graflex.

Thanks much, I do love the graflexes... I have an obi TPM on the way though, should be here tomorrow.

[Skottsaber]

Sorry.. you didn't answer my question, are the others stock FX? Or are the other 2 Graflexes?

[Caine Drathul]

Awesome, man...looking forward to that V2 that we were talking about. ;)

[slothfurnace]

Sorry.. you didn't answer my question, are the others stock FX? Or are the other 2 Graflexes?

Oh, sorry, those others are all stock MR FX Sabers.

[Noyl Wendor]

Okay so I started by looking at your post with the Graflex, then I found this....uh.... i am lacking.
That is a work of art, literally. Art. I don't know if you know what a Geekgasm is but if you read all the reaction posts on this thread then you may understand.
I will say this, jelousy is not one of my usual feelings. But in this case I can only wish on a 3rd of that sort of skill.
You did an excellent job. Keep building, posting, really inspiring work.
Awsome.

[slothfurnace]

Okay so I started by looking at your post with the Graflex, then I found this....uh.... i am lacking.
That is a work of art, literally. Art. I don't know if you know what a Geekgasm is but if you read all the reaction posts on this thread then you may understand.
I will say this, jelousy is not one of my usual feelings. But in this case I can only wish on a 3rd of that sort of skill.
You did an excellent job. Keep building, posting, really inspiring work.
Awsome.

Thanks Noyl, I really almost achieved everything I set out to do with this saber, and I am not 100% done yet, but when I get time to add the tiny details left, I will post them here.

[slothfurnace]

Minor update...

I added the correct bubblestrip I had laying round, just now had time to shave it down and polish up the places I cut.

http://www.nonentity.com/New/Images/Projects/ANHObiFX/067.jpg

I can't think of anything else to do to this. Comments?

Also, mods, can I get the title of this thread changed to "Slothfurnace's Correct neck Obi FX - step by step"?

Thanks!

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

I can't think of anything else to do to this. Comments?
Thanks!

Send it to me? :D

;)

That's beautiful. I'd love to build one like it some day.

[Matt Thorn]

A thing of beauty.

[psab keel]

I'm so inspired, I may just try my hand at an LED Ladder Saber!

The most screen accurate and functional (at least with light and sound) Obi-Wan ANH Lightsaber that I've ever seen!

[ARKM]

Very pretty saber Sloth. Excellent craftmanship.

[beggarsoutpost]

Inspiring...I have a RussRep Obi Wan as well... I just finished getting all the parts with the arrival of the long awaited handwheel... I'll be doing a LUX style conversion with a CFv5 in September or October... This gives me great hope for mine... Great job man...

[Caine Drathul]

Inspiring...I have a RussRep Obi Wan as well... I just finished getting all the parts with the arrival of the long awaited handwheel... I'll be doing a LUX style conversion with a CFv5 in September or October... This gives me great hope for mine... Great job man...

YUM! That's going to be ONE TASTY piece of buttered toast, my man.

Slothfurnace: This Obi deserves a slice of the same loaf...any chance of a sound upgrade?

[Skottsaber]

Remember, Caine, it needs to drive the LED string as well. Slothfurnace DOES want to keep the scrolling. ;)

[Silent_Jedi]

I was playing with my Master Replica's .45 scale Obi's ANH and First Build and I noticed something. Two wires that come out of the Graflex Clamp....

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a306/Pulse76/IMG_0192.jpg
from the front of the clamp....
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a306/Pulse76/IMG_0193.jpg
to the back...

Sorry about the resolution of the pics.. but I hope they help point you in the right direction if you want it "screen accurate" and are a stickler for details. Otherwise it's a beautiful saber and personally I wouldn't change a thing about it.

[slothfurnace]

YUM! That's going to be ONE TASTY piece of buttered toast, my man.

Slothfurnace: This Obi deserves a slice of the same loaf...any chance of a sound upgrade?

Caine, if I could get my hands on a CF, I would. But I don't think I stand a chance at getting one.

[Dippy123]

people keep saying that for a first bladed saber this is fantastic but in my oppinion even if people have been making them their whole lives this has to be the greatest saber I have ever seen. I am completely in aww at this project.

Good luck with everything else that you will attempt.