View Full Version : I've got an idea/a few questions, I'm a n00b

04-04-2010, 03:27 AM
Hello there! My name's Rughead, and I'm fairly new to this site. I've spent the better part of the last three days scouring these forums and absorbing youtube videos trying to learn more about making my own saber. I've learned a lot, though I still have a few uncertainties regarding requirements. I've attached two images of a pair of lightsabers I would like to create eventually. For now, I plan on ordering the pieces and displaying the empty hilt, because they're just that awesome, haha.

My hope is to be able to create a sound-enabled LED saber...So, before the questions, I have some info: I was planning on using a Lux III red/orange LED and an UltraSound 2.5 sound card. I know the US sound cards are out of stock at the moment...I don't mind shopping around. The lightsabers would be used for decoration and spinning around (no dueling), and would have 36" long blades, give or take.

Here are my questions so far:
1) first and foremost, do the hilts seem roomy enough to fit a sound card, battery pack, speaker, etc... My guess was no, but I think I'd be able to cram it all in somehow, lol. If I'd need to change some design elements, that wouldn't be a problem.
2) Would I need a resistor or BuckPuck if I have an UltraSound card? I've read a in few different places that "the sound card regulates the levels for you," So I want to say no, but I'm just making sure.
3) I planned on using a four-count AA battery pack, with three to four 3.7V 900mAh lithium batteries, which should give me about 11-15V. Would this be too much energy, not enough or just fine? I don't know how much energy is required to power the Lux III LED and UltraSound card/speaker.
4) Would I need to purchase swing and clash motion sensors, or would the UltraSound card accomplish the respective effects on its own?
5) This one is not necessary, I'm just curious. It'd be really interested to use a pommel-switch as the activation switch. I know that the pictures depict the incorrect pommels for such a setup and a switch already on the bodies of the sabers. Would it be possible to have two separate switches (running out of room, I know), or could I set the body switch up to perform a different function? If not, it's fine...another idea for another saber.
***6) Would anything (requirements) change if I were to use a Hasbro soundboard instead of an US 2.5? Thanks!!!

I appreciate your time for taking a look at this, especially if you answered any questions! Any light is tremendously appreciated! And, if you do answer any questions, remember I'm new and stupid, so small words would be awesome! :D

The pictures at the bottom are not final. They are merely for size/proportion and color reference only. And I realized the Covertec clip buttons are upside-down after reading through a couple threads. Everything except the activation switches are to be considered "decorations" at this point, and would serve no functional purposes.

THANK YOU!!! íCiao!

Saber One (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rughead/4489297962/in/photostream/)
Saber Three (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rughead/4488651671/in/photostream/)

04-04-2010, 03:54 AM
Welcome to the forums.

Here are answers to some of your questions:

UltraSound 2.5 will not be manufactured anymore. They will not be back in stock, but TCSS is coming up with their own soundboard in a while.

1. I think that they would fit

2. You do not need a resistor/buckpuck if you are using LED Driver/Soundboard (With the exeption of SS 1.0, Sabersound.)

3. 4x3.7V cells? You are lucky to survive when the card explodes... If you're using Red/Orange Lux III, THIS PARTICULAR board takes min of 4.8v and max. of 6.0 v on the correct setting.

4. You do not need to purchase any clash/swing sensors if you can get the US 2.5.

5. Currently the only soundboard that needs more than 1 switch is The Crystal Focus Saber Core. If you want to have the switch in the pommel, you can look for the new pommel inserts. (11 and 12 if I remember correctly)

Good luck.

By The Way, you will possibly get little flamed by The Pros a bit, but don't worry, it's their way to say hello. :D

04-04-2010, 09:23 AM
@ Rafalema

Haha, yeah, I was expecting as much...I've been learning about their welcoming methods over the past three days, more or less. As long as what they say isn't unnecessarily hostile and useless, I don't mind...they are the experts after all.

Thanks for answering my questions! I really appreciate it! They made me laugh... I really am not very knowledgeable yet, but I'm trying. I thought I did pretty well up 'ntil now, but there' so much to learn!

Will I need to buy an LED driver for what I'm planning on doing? That was another question I had: what are the purposes of an LED driver (to manipulate blade effects I believe, but I'm not sure)/would a sound card such as an US 2.5 serve as an LED driver?

Thanks for the voltage requirements! Those were crucial to the project! And pommel design 1 had a recessed divot to hide a switch, but I may just forget about it...there's always next time! Right now I'm just going to try and stick to the basics...the more complicated basics, I suppose.

You have helped me a ton! I greatly appreciate your time and help! :D íCiao!

04-04-2010, 09:51 AM
The best way not to get flamed is to do a lot more reading. With only 3 days worth, you've barely scratched the surface.

Then you can ask more informed questions. Some of your first questions were pretty basic and you could have answered them yourself with more time and reading.

And, you don't really need to announce that you're a noob, we can tell by your post count and registration date. ;)

Enthusiasm is good, just don't go jumping head first into your saber projects without more planning and gathering of information.

Then ask more questions if you need to, and post up your Parts Lists for us to look at before you order and we'll help you make sure you have everything you need, or suggest better alternatives if it looks like something won't work out for your design.

04-04-2010, 09:59 AM
Any soundboard (Except the SaberSound 1.0) acts as an LED driver.

You can either buy a soundboard/LED driver, or go with a resistor/buckpuck.

I read couple of weeks before my first order, and still got some things wrong. (Wrong switch, dang)

I know the enthusiasm to order the first parts... But be patient, and you will get good results.

04-05-2010, 12:33 AM
@ Rafalema

I appreciate your help! It is quite exciting! I will probably order extra parts just to have an empty shell to put on display or wear around the house, haha! And that's crap, not having the right switch! It's been somewhat confusing for me so far (overwhelming mostly), but I think I'm beginning to understand. Thanks again for your time!

@ Jedi-Loreen

I appreciate your wisdom in the matter. However, it is not as though I've stopped searching for the answers to my questions. This thread is not a last ditch-effort to figuring out all that involves the construction of replica lightsabers – it was merely a tool to assist me in learning the most that I could in a relatively short amount of time. What answers I could not find in the last four days I've spent searching, I posted here. That does not mean I've stopped searching. IMO, the best way not to get flamed...is not getting flamed. ;)

Just to be clear, after spending the time to read through a 550-word post asking five admittedly simple questions (questions I imagine you'd have more than enough experience, knowledge and confidence to answer), your expert advice is that I should do more research? Ha! That is probably true. Although I'll keep reading for the many days to come, it's interesting that I'll have left this thread having gained nothing from you but your time, seeming as it is you have the potential to offer so much.

Anyway, my parts list will be added to the original post shortly. I apologize if my questions seemed overly-simple and not worth the time to answer, but I assure you, I would not have asked them if I weren't confused, having already done <i>some</i> research. I should have listed my "questions" in the form of uncertainties, as that is more along the lines of what they were.

04-05-2010, 12:42 AM
Answer to your 6th question:

Depends what hasbro. The Force FX sabers hasbro card or the cheapy ones?

For the cheapy:
Yes, most likely they would change. If you want to use Lux III LED as your main LED, I recommend using a relay and a buckpuck/resistor to give the LED what it wants.

Also, I think that the hasbro board has different max. voltage. I recommend going with 4.8v NiMh pack if you decide to use the economy/cheapy board.

This board uses momentary switch, just like the US 2.5

For the Force FX soundboard:

They would change, but not much. Max. voltage: 6v (Though in some rare cases 6v will burn the card, so I recommend going SINGLE 3.7v Li-Ion 18650 batteries.)

The Force FX/MRFX board uses a latching switch.

There are 2 kinds of MRFX boards, Jedi & Sith. Make sure you know what you get before buying one of them...

Edit: Dang, didn't read the whole edit of your first post... But I truly recommend going with the MRFX soundboard... It's easier to wire without any relays or anything, and it puts out 1000mA or little less/more depending on the card. Usually these cost areoun 50-80 $, and if you get that massive singe Li-Ion battery, you will save loads of space with 1 big battery instead of 4 NiMh's.

04-05-2010, 12:51 AM
@ Rafalema

Thanks again for the reply!!! I was referring to the cheap, plastic hasbro sabers, but now I'm considering dismantling my Vader FX saber, after reading your post, haha!

04-05-2010, 12:53 AM
Good... GOOOD...

Oh, and if you dismantle the Vader FX, you can convert that to a direct drive stunt, since it already has a latching switch

04-09-2010, 11:15 AM
Hi Rughead.

I would like to make one suggestion to you, which IMO would help you answer some questions yourself.
Take one of your designs, and build a soundless direct drive saber first.
Once you have the parts in hand, you can begin teaching yourself saberbuilding, and when you become stuck, you can ask informed questions, or even find the answers yourself. The shoutbox, when you 'unlock' it, is also a useful tool where you can chat directly with the 'elders' of the forum.
I'm not saying you HAVE to, I just think that it would be very helpful. It was to me.:wink:

04-09-2010, 02:32 PM
@ Scottsaber

Lol, yeah, that's what I'm doing now...sigh. I appreciate the tip! I didn't mean to sound hostile towards JL...I'm not upset at all. I have been looking through this forum for the answers to my questions though, and I just end up getting more confused, lol. I will take it slowly and see if I can't figure it out! I appreciate your post!

04-09-2010, 11:05 PM
Oh, cool. But yeah I do agree sound is an exciting addition. But really, unless one comes up on Ebay, I think that you will have a hard time finding an unused 2.5. Once the news came out that they were no more, I think everyone is saving them for themselves. I know I am :p

04-11-2010, 11:45 AM
I hear that! Haha, I'd be holdin' on to mine too if I were you! Sound would be cool, just from an FX board in my opinion...that'd be cool enough for me! And even aside from the sounds and lights, I'd be happy just making them to look at and put up on display, or stick an acryilic tube in and call it a day, haha. :D