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Eight Lubak
03-17-2010, 01:56 AM
Hi all,
going to construct my first own lightsaber. Here is my part list:

7" Fluted with standard style switch hole
MHS ribbed extension v-grooved
MPS Pommel style 3 v2
MHS choke style 1 short
Machined button for Covertec clip
2 Brass bezel for illuminated switches
MPS Clip
MPS Insert style 6
DPDT Latching green illuminated switch
DPDT Momentary green illuminated switch
4AA Battery holder
Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
Luxeon III Star (Green)
Luxeon Collimator Lens 5 deg viewing angle
LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (34 inches)
2.1mm Power Jack
8-32 x 1/4" socket head (for covertec)
Machine switch hole in MHS section (illuminated)
Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) for covertec
Powder Coating (Copper Jacket Metallic, C1S3)
Powder Coating (Super Wet Black, RGR2)
Powder Coating (Super Wet Black, DFS2)
Powder Coating (Xtreme Chrome, PM31)
Covertec Clip
Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) blade holder
8-32 x 1/8" Set screw (securing blade)

The saber will be controlled by a Plecter Labs Crystal Focus Saber Core V4.3 which, to my understanding, will take over all sound and LED control functions so there should be no need for LED drivers or resistors. Also it comes with a speaker, so I did not put that in.

Attached picture gives you an idea how it is supposed to look like.

My plan is to put the battery pack into the ribbed extention (space enough?) and have the recharge port / kill switch in the pommel, but not sure if that's possible with the speaker (maybe better opposite the covertec?). I want to use the latching switch for on/off and the momentary for effects.

Feedback and comments would be much appreciated.

Cheers
Eight

Lawrs1
03-17-2010, 03:57 AM
Thats seems ok to me but, but will make for a rather long saber, and as for using a crystal focus, I would advise you do a bit more reading, as they are virtually impossible to get because when each new run is released they sell out in under 2 minutes. Please understand I say this not to put you off making sabers, just to make you aware of the situation

Skottsaber
03-17-2010, 08:17 AM
... Unless you already have a CF? The new V5 Is coming out soon, so if your are intent on getting your hands on one, I suggest you look for a v5 instead.

Only one other problem, you will need to move your Covertec up, you can't have screws going into the MHS threads.

Eight Lubak
03-18-2010, 06:25 AM
thx guys,

no, I don't have a CF yet. I understand it's hard to get one but I think it's worth the wait.

Concerning saber length, yeah, it's a bit long but should work out as I prefer a Katana style two handed grip. Maybe I leave the choke. What about the recharge port in the pommel and the speaker? Stupid idea or possible?

Thx for the covertec placement. Yep, reasonable, when you think about it.

Cheers
Eight

Lawrs1
03-18-2010, 06:38 AM
Thats perfectly possible there are plenty here that have done, take a look through the gallery thread there are plenty there

mihunai
03-18-2010, 06:49 AM
It looks good!
Bit big, but good.

Another common mistake regarding the Covertec..
Its upside down :P

Other than that, have you thought about a colourscheme/overlays yet?

mTm

Jay-gon Jinn
03-18-2010, 07:15 AM
Hi all,
going to construct my first own lightsaber. Here is my part list:

7" Fluted with standard style switch hole
MHS ribbed extension v-grooved
MPS Pommel style 3 v2
MHS choke style 1 short
Machined button for Covertec clip
2 Brass bezel for illuminated switches
MPS Clip
MPS Insert style 6
DPDT Latching green illuminated switch
DPDT Momentary green illuminated switch
4AA Battery holder
Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
Luxeon III Star (Green)
Luxeon Collimator Lens 5 deg viewing angle
LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (34 inches)
2.1mm Power Jack
8-32 x 1/4" socket head (for covertec)
Machine switch hole in MHS section (illuminated)
Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) for covertec
Powder Coating (Copper Jacket Metallic, C1S3)
Powder Coating (Super Wet Black, RGR2)
Powder Coating (Super Wet Black, DFS2)
Powder Coating (Xtreme Chrome, PM31)
Covertec Clip
Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) blade holder
8-32 x 1/8" Set screw (securing blade)

The saber will be controlled by a Plecter Labs Crystal Focus Saber Core V4.3 which, to my understanding, will take over all sound and LED control functions so there should be no need for LED drivers or resistors. Also it comes with a speaker, so I did not put that in.

Attached picture gives you an idea how it is supposed to look like.

My plan is to put the battery pack into the ribbed extention (space enough?) and have the recharge port / kill switch in the pommel, but not sure if that's possible with the speaker (maybe better opposite the covertec?). I want to use the latching switch for on/off and the momentary for effects.

Feedback and comments would be much appreciated.

Cheers
EightThere's no need for two different types of switches with a CF. It can be configured to use a momentary switch for on/off with a setting for off-protection that requires both the main and aux switch to be pressed to turn it off. you can use what ever you want though, it's your saber.

Putting a recharge port in the pommel is problematic, especially if the the speaker is in the pommel in a TCSS speaker mount. Getting wires around it and then having them twist as you install the pommel can be a real problem. It's not impossible, but not easy.

Also, the 4-AA battery holder doesn't fit inside the ribbed extension. It's too wide and a bit too long. The width can be slimmed down by removing the divider between the two rows of batteries, but the holder will still be too long.

Skottsaber
03-18-2010, 07:16 AM
I agree on the overlays. You should take time making your hilt as beautiful and worthy of Crystal Focus as possible.

Also, with regards to the auxiliary switch, most people use small, low profile tactile switches, I mean, it looks kinda dumb that when you lock sabers you look on your hilt for the button, and then get your thumb there to press it.

The CF can drive accent LED's, and you can do custom animations for them. Have you thought of putting some in? They would look awesome in the flutes sections. What about using a lighted anti-vandal switch? The CF can provide light for that as well, you could have it as your standby-on LED.

Eight Lubak
03-19-2010, 12:21 AM
Thx guys,
that gives a lot of inspiration. Especially the small tactile switch for aux is something I like. Cleans the hilt. I was deliberately going for a latching switch as I like this feel of press=>action more. But I see I have to familiarize myself more with the momentaries. I have an overlay in mind. Therefore the powder coating. Maybe not too much for a first. The same goes for the accent LEDs. I wanted to utilize the ones in the switches for that purpose. Aside, I don't want to overload.

For parts placement, that actually means I have to reverse my inner design and put the CF into the ribbed section and the batteries into the fluted part and simply use more generous wiring. Would that work?

Cheers
Eight

Skottsaber
03-19-2010, 07:06 AM
Um... the tactile switches nor the gaurded switches have LEDs in them. You will need lighted anti-vandal switches for that. And I don't think that the CF will fit in the ribbed section either. That's why I don't really like chokes, they can't hold anything except wires, resistors, or Crystal Chambers.

Jay-gon Jinn
03-19-2010, 08:11 AM
. And I don't think that the CF will fit in the ribbed section either.
Yes it will. I've done it before.

Jedi-Loreen
03-19-2010, 09:42 AM
Um... the tactile switches nor the gaurded switches have LEDs in them. You will need lighted anti-vandal switches for that. And I don't think that the CF will fit in the ribbed section either. That's why I don't really like chokes, they can't hold anything except wires, resistors, or Crystal Chambers.
If you look at his list, you'll see he's got the illuminated AV switches on it.:rolleyes:

I don't think Crystal Chambers could fit inside a choke very well. Maybe a couple of her fingers or something, but that's not very practical.


Sorry, but you set yourself up for that last comment, since you capitalized it, thus making it look like you're referring to the Member here, not the lightsaber section. :p

Skottsaber
03-19-2010, 10:43 AM
Grr! *sends nuclear bombs to all grammar libraries in the world* :p

Invisas1979
03-20-2010, 02:31 AM
If you wanted to shave a bit off the total length you could use the new ribbed/choke combo that tim has developed. It's 4.5in which is around the same length as the ribbed/groved section on it's own.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ribbed-Choke-Combo-P520.aspx

Also, if you did manage to get a CF you could run a 7.2v battery set up using two trustfire batteries which would also reduce the space needed, though you would need to upgrade the LED to a Lux V or similar 5v LED.

sithlordfaust
03-21-2010, 09:02 PM
Also, if you did manage to get a CF you could run a 7.2v battery set up using two trustfire batteries which would also reduce the space needed, though you would need to upgrade the LED to a Lux V or similar 5v LED.

nope. CF can run 3w leds on 7.2 just fine. have 2 cfs running Lux3s myself.
US 2.5 on the other hand doesnt regulate the extra voltage well or at all....
so that statement is true for the US 2.5

but yeah.. if your wanting to inhilt recharge I highly recommend
doing a battery pack instead of using the holder. with all the length in that design, you could have 2x 18650 li-ions end to end giving both 7.2volts and great run time

Eight Lubak
03-22-2010, 06:05 AM
Thx guys,

lot's of useful information here! Was already thinking of doing a customized battery pack myself and take advantage of the length of the design. Good to know that the CF will go into the Ribbed section. Special thx to Jay-gon Jinn.

Cheers
Eight

$tarkiller
03-22-2010, 07:45 AM
Listen to Jay you should. Knows what he is talking about, he does.