PDA

View Full Version : Lux 3 driver and MR sound



Rocket Man
05-31-2006, 03:07 PM
Can the Lux 3 driver offered on this site be wired with the sound boards offered from Tim and Ultra, can they be powered by a 9 volt or is that to much power?

"There's always a bigger fish..."

Firebird21
05-31-2006, 03:13 PM
Yes they can as long as you have the room for 2 C/Bs in your hilt.

The only problem is, I think the Driver is activated by a momentary switch, were as the MR S/B is activated by an On/Off switch. But I could be mistaken. I will check on that. (Edit: It appears that this is adjustable on the Driver. According to the diagram.)

As for the 9V... I'm going to have to look that one up too.

Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_sabre.gif http://www.clicksmilies.com/s0105/auto/car-smiley-032.gif Official Designated TCSS Jester! http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_biggrinjackbox.gif

xwingband
05-31-2006, 03:14 PM
Yes, they can. 9V is excessive but let me get the diagram... it will explain it all.

http://server2.uploadit.org/files/corbinspics7-FXsoundbasic.JPG

EDIT: Firebird, psst... the "driver" is corbin's board. He want's corbin's + FX board.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?.

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/6703/xwing8az.gif</center>

Firebird21
05-31-2006, 03:20 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband

EDIT: Firebird, psst... the "driver" is corbin's board. He want's corbin's + FX board.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


What's your point?[?]
Edit: Sorry xwing, the more I read that, the more rude it sounds... I do know what he's refering to.


Edit: I don't agree with that diagram...
According to that diagram, there will be ether no clash sound or no motion sound as that is only one sensor attached to the FX board. (Ok, I just remembered that the MR S/B has hard wired motion sensors so that is a Clash sensor, specificly.) And if there are 2 clash sensors, then you would sometimes get sound FX and no Flash and so on and so forth, as they are not guaranteed to both sence the same impact every time.
I'd run the two boards in parallel with the clash sensor.

Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_sabre.gif http://www.clicksmilies.com/s0105/auto/car-smiley-032.gif Official Designated TCSS Jester! http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_biggrinjackbox.gif

xwingband
05-31-2006, 03:44 PM
I didn't make the diagram up... CORBIN made it. I wouldn't steer him wrong. You run one clash sensor and it will fry the electronics.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?.

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/6703/xwing8az.gif</center>

Firebird21
05-31-2006, 03:53 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband

You run one clash sensor and it will fry the electronics.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


Well that would suck! [:0]


I still don't like the idea of the 2 sensors. Maybe use a relay, if there were room.

Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_sabre.gif http://www.clicksmilies.com/s0105/auto/car-smiley-032.gif Official Designated TCSS Jester! http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_biggrinjackbox.gif

JediMcD
05-31-2006, 04:09 PM
Hi everyone. First post here, but I have been around since it started. I just prefer to sit back and read everyone's posts. Thanks to everyone for what they have done thus far.

I hope this is an okay place to ask this (if not xwing you can personally beat me silly).

I have already got a 5w luxeon and the new luke sound card and pommel Tim is selling. My question is this, how should I wire it all up. I will also be using Corbin's board in the saber.

I thought about using one switch to turn on the saber and the sound, but the sound and the led use different voltages. I then thought I could put a voltage regulator in line with the sound card to keep from frying it, but it looks like Corbin says the regulator gets very hot. Then I thought I could just use a seperate 4aaa battery pack for the sound card and the 7.2v 2400mah lithium ion battery pack connected to the driver. This then requires alot of switches (one for the driver, one for crash and lockup, and one for the sound)which starts to trash up the hilt. I wish there was a cool pushbutton DPST switch to use because, that seems like it might work.

Man oh man. I got more problems than a monkey on a rock. Just kidding. Any input would be greatly appreciated. What do you all think?

xwingband
05-31-2006, 06:11 PM
You can certainly run two battery packs if you have room, but it's not a great solution. Your sound and LED would run out of batteries at different times, lol.

Ask Corbin about the luke module though.

It's possible it just needs some work.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?.

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/6703/xwing8az.gif</center>

Darth_Dadderall
11-16-2006, 07:24 PM
I've discovered that the clash sensor you can get out of the Anakin sabers has two discrete solder sets on it's pcb, allowing a savvy sabersmith to engage both the MR board and Corbin's board with one sensor.

Aryk Ky'Ratsu
03-15-2007, 03:26 PM
I know this is an old topic, but Xwing said: "You run one clash sensor and it will fry the electronics."

This was in reference to running a Luke FX s/b and the Corbin driver. The diagram shows 2 clash sensors. Why would it fry the electronics to use just 1 like in the Hasbro/Corbin diagram? I thought the Hasbro is the weaker board (compared to MR), & it doesn't fry. I'm asking b/c I just found out today I can get my hands on an MR Luke s/b and would like to use it.

Another question: saw a reference somewhere that said you can select momentary or latching on the C/B itself. Is that true? I don't think so b/c Tim sells each type in the store. Just my luck, I just bought the mom C/B from him yesterday since I was planning on using a Hasbro s/b. The mom board really won't work with the MR?? Can you explain why in laymen's electronic language?

Eric

xwingband
03-15-2007, 03:43 PM
You can run one clash sensor with the Luke ROTJ. I meant the Ani/Vader board you cannot. Those were like the ones Corbin had on his site.

If you look at those boards they have power running through them. It's not a matter of weaker/stronger (whatever you think that means.... because I don't). The Hasbro clash sensors are pretty much just springs in a metal tube. The Luke and a few of the other MR boards don't have power going through them so you'll be fine.

Also, no yo cannot select momentary or latching on the board itself. It's either/or there. If you already have a momentary it's not going to work with the MR FX. Why... shoot, that's hard to explain in any language. I can tell you what would happen though. Corbin's will light the LED but the MR sound will go on and off with each tap of the switch.

Lord Maul
03-15-2007, 03:50 PM
Xwing, couldn't you turn on the regular MR switch, put it in the hilt, and then wire another switch which would be momentary?

xwingband
03-15-2007, 03:53 PM
Xwing, couldn't you turn on the regular MR switch, put it in the hilt, and then wire another switch which would be momentary?

Umm... no. Isn't it obvious... the sound would always be on that way.

Aryk Ky'Ratsu
03-15-2007, 06:10 PM
Thanks again, xwing.

Eric

frdm_rckr
04-08-2007, 02:46 PM
how would u wire the shock sensor to both if u use luke ?

erv
04-20-2007, 01:35 AM
kind of double posting, cause I've answered somewhere else, but since it's the original thread :

However, my driver will work properly with the MR boards.
I made a training saber for a stage combat guy, and discovered then that :
- the on/off switch are "in the right order". A single switch (the MR stock one) can drive the MR board and the luxeon driver. No need of a double throw switch
- the clash sensor can be shared as well ! => luxeon clash effect with the MR shock sensor + clash sound

I guess I have to make a schematic of that !

Erv'

erv
05-10-2007, 11:21 PM
A french customer asked me to attach my driver to an MR board (luke ROTJ). So I decided once for all to add an option to specify "MR compatible" when ordering my luxeon driver (well, I still have to do it on the website)
The 2 boards are totally compatible, it was just an activation level to swap. The switch of the MR uses the same "logic" as my driver : apply positive voltage to the switch pad, power on, apply ground, saber off. So I can use the stock switch of the MR, just one wire running to my board.
For the clash sensor however, the "logic" was inverted. I needed ground to activate the manual clash effect, while on the MR, a positive voltage activate the clash sound.
Several points / issues, due to MR design (not mine) :
- on the luke, there are 6 batteries, 3 // 3. The 2 sets are connected/coupled thru 2 diodes at the entrance of the board. Generates a voltage loss of 0.7V on a set which is only 4.5V with new batteries. This is a bit low for a lux III green/white/blue/cyan. Better with a red or red-orange or amber LED since the forward voltage is lower.
- Add to that the springs of the battery holder/coupler. Awfull losses there, like 200 or 300 mV
- Current therefore can't be 1A. You can't even have a real 750 mA. Same actually is you were running the LED in direct drive from the MR....
- the clash sensor is shorting for a really short time. Can't make a satisfying clash effect on the luxeon. Software tweaking : a pulse from the clash sensor generates 7 random flashes from the luxeon driver (in that very version)

Here we go for some schematics. To adapt that to other boards, it's pretty easy. Follow the wires to see where + and - go. For the switch and the clash sensors, one wire is set to the +, the other goes to the control pin in the IC. Looking to the PCB traces, the wire/trace on which you have to vampire is the little one, going inside the IC (covered by resin). The other trace might go to many other parts, since it more or less a common + to the rest of the PCB. You won't break my board if you wire the switch pad or the clash control pad to the wrong wire of the MR switch or MR clash sensor : it will simply not produce the effect, or don't respond to the switch control (MR goes off, luxeon driver stays on). If so, swap with the other wire !

Overview (http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/LuxDriverAndMrBoard001.jpg)
MR board (solder side) (http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/LuxDriverAndMrBoard002.jpg)
Clash sensor detail (http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/LuxDriverAndMrBoard003.jpg)
Clash sensor to Driver (http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/LuxDriverAndMrBoard004.jpg)

Novastar
05-12-2007, 04:24 PM
This is an EXCELLENT resource that you've posted Erv...

it demonstrates how (as LEDs improve as time passes) FX boards simply won't be providing the best brightness from an LED mainly because of the amperage.

Although 700ma is ok for some Lux IIIs, it is not so great for others. And as LEDs improve, my guess is we'll be seeing more "high current" LEDs (such as 1500ma or 1000, 1300, etc.).

Makes sense that the timing of the CF (aka BT) and hopefully Alex's driver will help get the most "bang" out of LEDs as the months progress.