2010 Electronic Lightsaber w/ DVD Tutorial [Archive] - Page 3

dgdve

11-18-2010, 07:22 AM

Anyone notice there is a "NEW" box for the 2010 electronic lightsaber? Yes you want the ones that say electronic/NOT force feel or anything funny.. just "Star Wars Electronic Lightsaber w/included dvd".. the new box is Black in color, is on sale at Target ($16.09 usa). The website still has the old (White)box pictured so hopefully this will help anyone out there who is confused..

I have opened and confirmed that this is infact the 2010 "ghetto board".. and now heres the kicker... someone asked earlier if anyone had figured out how to get it apart without destroying the plastic saber itself.. (I'd assume this jedi was going to give it to his kid or something cute and sweet.. *gag*) but... as you know Im dark side baby.. so ofcourse I split it open and put it back together and well... now you can do what you want with it(especially if you have a reciept, like me ;).. but even though I'm darkside I'm not stupid so please do NOT use my information to break any local or federal laws..

The only saber I was able to actually put back together 100%(well lets call its 99% since I got the guts in my hand).. was the Star Wars "Darth Vader" Electronic Lightsaber. The same one CC pictured and Video.. the trick is.. (man I wish I could post some shots)

1- Remove the 2 screws holding the Clamp/switch assembly.. Carefully pry the box open enough to remove the bubble strip(switch cover).

2- Remove Clamp

3- Use vice grips (gently...GENTLY, I cannot stress this enough!!!!) and begin to break the seal under the clamp by squeezing it(NEVER TOUCH THE EXPOSED AREA"S OF THE SABER)

4- Now take out some cutters/hacksaw/dremel...whatever.. and GENTLY cut one half of the saber into two pieces(now you can lift the top and bottom halves seperately). you will notice the "emmiter" is press fit onto the saber. lift the front half ever so slightly and begin the wiggle... (BE PATIENT!!!!) after awhile it will wiggle loose and come out of the emmiter.. NOW what you see is the board FULLY EXPOSED.. DONT TOUCH THE BOARD YET!!!!(chill, were not finished yet)

5- The bottom half of the saber is also press fit onto the pommel... lift and wiggle... wiggle, wiggle...(dude..... be gentle as the saber is flimsy now).. now once its out you can see the entire saber.. pommel and emmiter press fit onto the bottom half(the one that is still full length)... board sitting there ripe for the picking and easily removed without cutting ANYTHING but the +/- leads.. (O and remove the 2 screws as well,... moving on...)

(REMOVE THE ELECTRONICS, GET the sensor (its under the battery tray connected to the blue wires and KEEP the speaker, they suck but you never know when you need an extra)

Anyway now all you do is wiggle the pieces back into the emmiter and pommel section.. replacing the Clamp/switch assembly(thus hiding your work ;).. you need some filler for behind the bubble switch cover.. I used a little piece of folded paper, just anything to fill in where you removed the actual switch... Done and now you can go give the saber to your kid or whatever you "good" jedi do.. Anyway the saber remains flawless(well... cosmetically speaking of course).. Anyway thanks to Card and Rhyen!! (and anyone else who helps/njoys the ghetto board)

Bothrops

11-18-2010, 08:47 AM

Rhyen Skytracker

11-18-2010, 01:36 PM

Yep, those are the same exact boards. The Obi is the skinny one and all of the rest are the same size, including the Yoda. If you have a saber where you need to put the soundboard in the ribbed extension then you need to use the Obi board. The other boards will only fit in the 1.25" ID MHS parts.

erahard

11-18-2010, 02:05 PM

Sorry Cardcollector, but I did not understand what you mean. If you wrap the battery with heatshrink, I see it difficult to recharge it later. Could you please tell me how you hold a single protected Trustfire?

Thanks.

RevengeoftheSeth

11-18-2010, 02:08 PM

I think he means with the recharge port vs putting it in a battery charger.

erahard

11-18-2010, 02:27 PM

If that is what he means, I wasn´t planning to recharge them in-hilt but to be able to remove them and recharge it outside. So I should be able to easily remove the battery while also holding it inside the hilt. Any ideas?

cardcollector

11-18-2010, 04:29 PM

Er Dan Gill

11-20-2010, 12:57 PM

I just picked up a couple of these, and was wondering if anyone has used one with the driver and add on boards?

Rhyen Skytracker

11-20-2010, 05:21 PM

When making rechargable battery packs and having batteries inside a metal hilt you need to protect them. They make very thin heat shrink that is made for making battery packs. Here is one with clear heat shrink http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=110&sid=573dd0ada805e25a93f3de8668b5805e and one with 6 AAA NiMH batteries using the green heat shrink http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=107 these were some of my first battery packs and as you can see they are not too hard to make. Now that I have made a few I learned a few little tips and tricks to making them look better and fit in tighter spaces. When making battery packs you need to get the batteries as dead center to each other as you can when you solder them to take up less room.

cardcollector

11-21-2010, 08:49 PM

I just picked up a couple of these, and was wondering if anyone has used one with the driver and add on boards?

I haven't, but it seems like someone else has... You could use this board in theory with the driver, but I think you would be better off using a fx board... Better quality for the money.:)

erahard

11-22-2010, 01:14 AM

Hi there,

I wanted to use an AV illuminated switch on the setup found on the first page. However, I am a bit confused with the different types of switches:

- Should I use a DPDT or a SPST?
- Is a Momentary switch necessary or can I use a Latching?

I am a bit lost with the names so please try to explain this to me.

Thanks in advance.

dgdve

11-22-2010, 08:54 AM

your best bet is to use one of the FRESH NEW!! short style AV SPST (Momentary<-it MUST be momentary) switches... DO NOT forget the proper resitor(for the switch led). Keep us posted on your build!! and gl

cardcollector

11-22-2010, 09:04 AM

You need to use a spst momentary switch. You can wire the led in parallel with the main one, or use the board positive and not have to use a resistor.
Spst- single pole single throw
Dpdt- double pole double throw.

Hope that helps

erahard

11-22-2010, 09:55 AM

Thanks all for the info. Regarding the new SPST switches: As the AV bezel does not work for them and I didn't want to use a Box, can I just drill a hole and put them without anything more? Would it look nice?

Skottsaber

11-22-2010, 09:57 AM

Use This service (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Machine-recessed-AV-switch-hole-P552.aspx) ;)

Jedi-Elf

11-22-2010, 09:51 PM

You need to use a spst momentary switch. You can wire the led in parallel with the main one, or use the board positive and not have to use a resistor.

Ok, I know this may be a dumb question, but I have no idea about how to do anything more complex than soldering one wire to another or onto an LED pad. Exactly how do you wire something "in parallel"? Also can you explain the other option of using the board + and not using a resistor? Sorry but the more I read about how to wire this soundboard, the more confused I get since there seem to be a few conflicting options that people swear all work.

Matt Thorn

11-23-2010, 06:23 AM

Ok, I know this may be a dumb question, but I have no idea about how to do anything more complex than soldering one wire to another or onto an LED pad. Exactly how do you wire something "in parallel"? Also can you explain the other option of using the board + and not using a resistor? Sorry but the more I read about how to wire this soundboard, the more confused I get since there seem to be a few conflicting options that people swear all work.
Jedi-Elf, it sounds like you have chosen a difficult board for a first (?) project. Introducing an illuminated switch or accent LED to the mix makes the project that much more complex. If you've never made a saber before, and don't understand terms like "momentary switch," "latching switch," "DPDT," "parallel," "series," etc., I would suggest you follow the very excellent MHS noob tutorial, and make a stunt (which is to say "soundless") saber using MHS parts and a TCSS electronics kit. All the information you need to learn what you want to learn is here in these forums. You just have to search, browse, and read, read, read. :)

cardcollector

11-23-2010, 09:53 AM

Jedi Elf, You need to read this site...

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/index.htm

It should help with all your definitions questions.

Jedi-Elf

11-23-2010, 04:01 PM

Thanks for the info cardcollector! I thought that these hasbro boards were relatively easy to work with but there seem to be many options as to how to wire them and its a bit confusing for someone who has only built a stunt saber before now. I think I need to sift through this thread with a notebook handy and collect all the info I want/need in one place and then it won't seem so hard to understand.

Nachttoter

11-23-2010, 06:12 PM

Question what you guys think of these for for the 2 econo i build for my kids

http://www.luxdrive.com/luxdrive-products/micropuck-2009a-single-led-driver/

i have the seutp running off 4 aaa alkaline batteries they are running the 2010 boards and powering a lux 1 green and a lux 1 blue 1 in each saber the green is off a yoda board and the blue is running a obi wan board.

any comments or suggestions are welcome.

Well I will order a couple of these and give some feedback on here as to the usefullness of these in the setup I will use them in. thanks

Jedi-Elf

12-01-2010, 05:35 PM

Quick, probably dumb question. I know I need to get a momentary switch for this board, but does it matter if I get a DPDT illuminated switch or one of the new SPST illuminated switches?

Matt Thorn

12-01-2010, 06:00 PM

Quick, probably dumb question. I know I need to get a momentary switch for this board, but does it matter if I get a DPDT illuminated switch or one of the new SPST illuminated switches?
Unless you're planning to do something fancy that requires two separate circuits, you don't need a DPDT (double pole, double throw) switch. An SPST (single pole, single throw) is fine.

Rhyen Skytracker

12-02-2010, 07:49 AM

But you can use a DPDT and just not use one side of the contacts too. So either one will work for the economy board. When you get to boards that use latching switches, that is where the extra pole can come in handy.

RevengeoftheSeth

12-02-2010, 09:34 PM

Man, this thread should really be stickied.

Jedi-Elf

12-02-2010, 10:31 PM

Thanks everyone for the info. I thought it didn't really matter, but I wanted to be sure. New switch and a couple odds and ends are in the mail now, so I just need to decide if I want to use one or two 3.7V Li-ions and and maybe buy a 5V regulator then get soldering!

tim_merriman

12-13-2010, 12:28 AM

Hey there all.
Just wondering if anyone in Australia has seen one of these sabers for less then the $59 "special" i saw at Big W.
Any help would be fantastic thanks.

equinox13

12-13-2010, 01:08 AM

yep that's more than they are here in japan - 3000 yen on clearance. that's around $40US. good luck on finding one... amazon or something perchance?

vctrsone

12-25-2010, 04:44 AM

Im kinda freaking out myself the stores have stopped stocking the hasbro electronic sabers here in NZ...heres hoping for a 2011 series?

cardcollector

12-25-2010, 08:13 AM

If all else fails, you can buy them online, or get the general grevious style saber.

Rhyen Skytracker

12-25-2010, 10:44 PM

Do not get the General Grevious saber. The sounds are not synced properly and the sounds are not as good as the 2010 econo boards. Also, the micro puck only puts out 350 mA and is not a good driver for LEDs that we use now. They were great with the Lux I LEDs but most of the ones we use now need around 1000 mA.

cardcollector

12-26-2010, 08:29 AM

Do not get the General Grevious saber. The sounds are not synced properly and the sounds are not as good as the 2010 econo boards.

This is true, but given the choice between no sound and grievous sound... I'd take the grevious sound.
And honestly, once you get rid of the nonresponsive swing sound. The board really isn't that bad.

Azmaria Dei

12-26-2010, 08:58 AM

i actually have no qualms with the saber i built with grievous sound... and i think it sounds good too, as long as you don't pay attention to the poor mixing and slow swing response.

dgdve

12-27-2010, 05:12 AM

as long as you don't pay attention to the poor mixing and slow swing response.

.. well I'd just cut out the swings and go with it.. here's the thing.. you gotta do what you can, with what you've got.. if thats your options.. take it, why not? try youtube.. the grevious board isnt THAT bad and actually fits some saber designs better then the trilogy fonts... and it beats no sound, ANYTIME..

Azmaria Dei

12-27-2010, 05:28 AM

.. well I'd just cut out the swings and go with it.. here's the thing.. you gotta do what you can, with what you've got.. if thats your options.. take it, why not? try youtube.. the grevious board isnt THAT bad and actually fits some saber designs better then the trilogy fonts... and it beats no sound, ANYTIME..

i can agree with that fully. ^_^

Rhyen Skytracker

12-27-2010, 02:19 PM

Another thing you can do with the grevious sound board is to use the spin sound instead of the swing sound. It actually sounds like a better swing than the swing does. Just disable the swing sound and add a swing sensor to the spin detector pads. I will do a tutorial on it sometime this week.

cardcollector

12-27-2010, 02:45 PM

I already made a tutorial thread that could be added to ryhen...
forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12207-2010-General-Grievous-Hasbro-Economy-Board-Guide

Rhyen Skytracker

12-27-2010, 09:50 PM

I will add my modifications to that thread. Thanks for going ahead and making one. I just haven't had the time to make too many tutorials lately. I need to make one on the Hasbro FX with removable blade too. I have had the pictures taken on that one for over 3 months. lol

Azmaria Dei

12-27-2010, 10:17 PM

i'll have to add my inputs/modifications to it as well later on. ^_^

cardcollector

12-27-2010, 10:17 PM

I look forward to seeing your mods!

I know, timewise I haven't been able to post much in the way of help
Either... I can't wait to see the removeable fx tutorial usually LDM gets right on those I can't imagine what he's been up to... :rolleyes: :)

vctrsone

01-10-2011, 02:18 AM

this circuit is tried,tested, simple and uses parts found at ANY electronics store. no voltage change ether. gives you your part list and wiring diagram all in one easy diagram.

the mono stereo socket kills power to the board when you plug in your power, so its very safe and you can use a kill key.

My diagram has been working in my first saber for 6 months now with a lot or recharges and its also in my latest build. several others also liked this diagram of mine because its very "newb" friendly....

http://i56.tinypic.com/14d3b5f.jpg

Can we add it into the first page? as then its a one stop thread for these sound boards. (wont have to search for how to wire in the recharge port etc etc etc)

I don't mind if you want to re-draw the circuit so its a bit more tidy like the others, It just needs to be in there.

more advanced users dont need all the parts named etc but I thought for the very beginners like I was this is a good diagram to start with as its all in one.

cardcollector

01-10-2011, 07:53 AM

I will work on making a cleaner diagram this evening (hopefully) and will add it to page one. Thanks for you contribution!. :)

Rhyen Skytracker

01-10-2011, 03:46 PM

The main reason we added everything to the diagram on the first page is because people kept asking how to add this or how to add that. By having a circuit that has most of what everyone uses they can just leave out what they don't need. We can't modify a diagram for every single little thing. It takes time to make the modifications and all someone has to do is look at the existing diagram and remove the part you don't need or add the part you do need. It you don't need the voltage regulator, just take it out of the circuit and power the econo board straight from the batteries or add a recharge port. (which has a diagram in another thread as well as buried in this thread somewhere) By doing it this way and not relying on everyone to make all the changes for you, you will learn how to do things yourself.

cardcollector

01-10-2011, 09:21 PM

Ok after looking at your diagram I couldn't quite figure out why you used two positives instead of using the two negatives like usuall... I also need to know what legs you used based on this recharge port...

http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/RechargePort.jpg

once you so that I'll haave the cleaned up diagram, I just want to make sure I make it correctly since I haven't used this setup...

Rhyen Skytracker

01-10-2011, 09:44 PM

I have made 5 different wiring diagrams using 2 different ranges of voltages, 7.2 V - 7.4 V and 6 V and under, and I also have diagrams with and with out recharge ports and accent LEDs. I hope this will help to answer most peoples questions.

CardCollector, can you add these to the first thread? I also redid the positive on most of them to make it easier to wire. All it will change is the size of the LED resistors. (I did these in a hurry so please double check them.)

Anyway, here they are and feel free to pass them around.

7.2 V - 7.4 V with voltage regulator, recharge port and accent LED:
http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp242/wadeh13/Wiring%20Diagrams%20and%20reviews/Economy%20Boards/2010Modifiedeverythingrev01-10-2011.png

7.2 V - 7.4 V with voltage vegulator and accent LED (No recharge port):
http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp242/wadeh13/Wiring%20Diagrams%20and%20reviews/Economy%20Boards/2010ModifiedwithvregaccledandNOrechargeport01-10-2011.png

3.7 V - 6 V with recharge port and accent LED:
http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp242/wadeh13/Wiring%20Diagrams%20and%20reviews/Economy%20Boards/2010ModifiedNoVoltRegrev01-10-2011.png

3.7 V - 6 V with recharge port (No accent LED):
http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp242/wadeh13/Wiring%20Diagrams%20and%20reviews/Economy%20Boards/2010ModifiedNoVoltRegNoaccLEDrev01-10-2011.png

3.7 V - 6 V Basic Set up (No recharge port or accent LED)
http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp242/wadeh13/Wiring%20Diagrams%20and%20reviews/Economy%20Boards/2010ModifiedBasicrev01-10-2011.png

cardcollector

01-10-2011, 09:46 PM

:shock: :shock: :shock:
well um sure thing Rhyen! Amazing diagrams...

Skottsaber

01-10-2011, 10:31 PM

Thank you Ryhen.
These should be the definitive diagrams for wiring this board.

FYI for new guys, Ryhen has wired at least 15 of these boards into sabers, so I'd say he knows his stuff by now.

iamdrake

01-10-2011, 10:41 PM

Those diagrams are amazing... Is it possible to run another accent led off of the PNP transistor if you want an accent led and an av switch?

Rhyen Skytracker

01-10-2011, 10:53 PM

I have wired 15 of the 2010 econo boards and over 35 of the older Econo boards. Yes, you can run another accent off of the transistor, just be careful and use the correct resistor for the LED.

iamdrake

01-10-2011, 11:08 PM

Sweet... again thank you for the diagrams!!!

vctrsone

01-11-2011, 09:07 AM

good work Rhyen and I will be using the earth line next time to break the circuit when charging.I actualy posted that diagram on here and you guys gave me the go ahead. I just used the positive line as the switching lines as I thought it would be safer having no power at all to led and board while charging.

Skottsaber

01-11-2011, 09:09 AM

Umm... no it wouldn't.
Don't give advice on the canon ports when you don't use them. If you want proof go and look at the tutorials for the canon 2.1mm recharge ports in a kill setup.

The diagrams WILL work.

vctrsone

01-11-2011, 10:00 AM

I didn't give any advice on a canon port and I never said they wouldn't work. I in fact said I will be using one of those circuits in my next build.

I was told in the shout box by Az they use the negative line to cut power as its the industry norm , the way Ive done it is not right but not unsafe and I wont be doing it that way anymore now Ive been put right.

Rhyen Skytracker

01-11-2011, 10:48 AM

You need to keep in mind the polarity of the recharge port or you could risk damaging the battery pack or charger when trying to charge it. The chargers are polarity sensitive, that is why we break the ground wire through the recharge port. Also for the LED to have power it needs a + and -, otherwise it is still an open circuit.

Knighthammer

01-11-2011, 12:15 PM

Awesome diagrams Rhyen! Thanks.

erahard

01-12-2011, 01:15 AM

Hi there,

I am about to build the circuit following the awesome diagrams of the first page. I was thinking of using a single Li-Ion 3.7 battery with a recharge port and a AV illuminated switch. However, I have noticed that the only diagrams that includes a AV illuminated switch uses a pack of 7,4-7.6v. Is this because you have tested that a single 3.7v cell would not be enough on a circuit with an AV switch? Or could I just follow the diagram just removing the 5v regulator and using a single 3.7v cell?

Thanks.

Azmaria Dei

01-12-2011, 01:29 AM

you can use the diagram with an AV switch, use a single 18650, and remove the 5V regulator. we use a single Li-Ion with lit AV switches all the time. just remember to use the proper resistor. ^_^ also there IS a diagram with what you describe - it's the 3.6V-6V diagram - the third one down in Rhyen's post with the multitude of diagrams.

Rhyen Skytracker

01-12-2011, 07:22 AM

It is on page 55, 3rd diagram down. It looks like that CC copied the same one twice (one for the 7.2 - 7.4 V) and left the one for 3.7. - 6V off. It was a wasy mistake to make since those look just alike except for the different voltages. I use a single Li-Ion all the time with a recharge port and illuminated AV switch and it works fine. I have used both the 14500 and the 18650 with great results. The 18650 will give you twice the run time than a 14500 will. Keep in mind that the 14500 is AA sized and the 18650 is A sized and takes up a lot of room.

@Cardcollecter - can you change the 3rd of 5 diagrams on the 1st page to be the one with 3.7 - 6Volts with recharge port and accent LED please? Thank you so much for putting those on the first page for me. You have made this thread one of the most useful and viewed threads here.

Skottsaber

01-12-2011, 07:25 AM

I don't know about you guys, but for some reason I get different page counts (different screen res?), so it is this diagram. (http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp242/wadeh13/Wiring%20Diagrams%20and%20reviews/Economy%20Boards/2010ModifiedNoVoltRegrev01-10-2011.png)

Azmaria Dei

01-12-2011, 07:27 AM

i maxed out my posts per page so i have 14 pages...

cardcollector

01-12-2011, 08:12 AM

@Cardcollecter - can you change the 3rd of 5 diagrams on the 1st page to be the one with 3.7 - 6Volts with recharge port and accent LED please? Thank you so much for putting those on the first page for me. You have made this thread one of the most useful and viewed threads here.

So sorry guys, I'll fix that immediately. My bad.

EDIT: fixed.

Zakk Metal

01-13-2011, 05:12 PM

Hi Everyone,

So my first attempt to wire sound quite literally blew up in my face, so I'm at it again. This time I'm going to use a new 2010 Electronic Lightsaber board from an Obi Wan.

To get to the point : I picked up this Transistor :http://www.thesource.ca/estore/product.aspx?language=en-CA&product=2761604&category=Semi+Conductors%2fIC's&catalog=Online&tab=1#more

and I want to make sure it is the correct one, as I can't afford to have another board get fried.

Skottsaber

01-13-2011, 05:14 PM

That is the wrong kind.
You need to get a TIP42 transistor.

Rhyen Skytracker

01-13-2011, 06:37 PM

That transistor will not handle or pass through the current needed for high power LEDs that we use. You need a TIP42, I use the C model. So a TIP42C, is what I use. You can get them at mouser.com for way cheaper than you were paying for the one you got. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/TIP42C/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtn7beagP2hIdb0BRj3v8d8CP63%252b1xq9M I%3d

supersith

01-14-2011, 07:51 PM

Ok Ive been looking throught this thread but havent seen an awnser. I am using a cheapo board and 6v without a recharge port or accent LEDs right now. I will only need the 5 volt regulator. But Im not sure thanks to the comment about not all of them being right.

Knighthammer

01-14-2011, 09:22 PM

http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp242/wadeh13/Wiring%20Diagrams%20and%20reviews/Economy%20Boards/2010ModifiedBasicrev01-10-2011.png

Actually if you follow this image right here you should be just fine.

Skottsaber

01-15-2011, 04:53 AM

FOR ANYBODY WHO READS THIS THREAD.
FROM HERE ON IN.

THIS POST (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?10288-2010-Electronic-Lightsaber-w-DVD-Tutorial&p=189570#post189570) and This first post (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?10288-2010-Electronic-Lightsaber-w-DVD-Tutorial&p=162592#post162592) have ALL the correct diagrams for this sound board, in nearly any setup you can think of, and all of the most popular ones.

If you ask how to wire this soundboard, and are ignored, it IS because you can find the answer in one of these posts.

Rhyen Skytracker

01-15-2011, 01:04 PM

I agree 100%. I spent 10 hours of time that I didn't have to spare to make 5 diagrams with different set ups using the economy board and I will not answer anymore questions when the answers are in the diagrams on the first page. Either read or don't expect to get answers to your questions.

Skottsaber

01-15-2011, 01:14 PM

That is not to say we can't continue this thread with intelligent, educated questions and commentary ;)

supersith

01-15-2011, 03:33 PM

Thanks for the help..I read all of your diagrams but at the end it said something to the effect that some were wrong so I wasnt sure. But now I know thanks to your awnser..hope I am the last.

Rhyen Skytracker

01-15-2011, 05:19 PM

ALL of the ones on the first page are correct. Some people have posted their own diagrams deeper in the thread that had a few things wrong with them but ALL of the ones on the first page are correct.

Fantom

01-19-2011, 06:52 PM

Matt Thorn

01-19-2011, 07:22 PM

is it possible to use the "Constant current LED driver" from the store with an economy board?

because from what i have looked at from this thread and the thread using the corbin wiring diagrams as a guide the closest i could come up with looks like this http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/8168/59285147.jpg

i know the wiring diagram could use a little work and the layout. but is it at least a start?
Sure. Just use the economy board for the sound, and the LED driver for the light. You will need either a DPDT momentary switch (and the momentary version of the LED driver), or some kind of relay or transistor setup so that both turn on and off at the same time. I would recommend the latter, because with a DPDT setup, if the economy board times out, you will have light and sound reversed. (That is, when light is on sound will be off, and vice versa.) If that is all Greek to you, you might want to do some more reading before trying to use the economy board and LED driver together.

Fantom

01-19-2011, 08:01 PM

i never have worked with relays but i think i can figure out how to work the board with a transistor set up.

Azmaria Dei

01-20-2011, 02:45 AM

Matt Thorn

01-20-2011, 03:21 AM

if my understanding is correct, the TIP42 transistor in the diagrams is acting as a constant current driver. the base is getting a constant (normally) 20mA, which opens the emitter and collector path a fixed amount, only letting a set amount of power through at slightly under what the battery pack is putting out. though if the battery voltage drops, the transistor voltage out would drop as well. the bottom line, i think, is that if you did that, you'll need to make sure that your transistor is putting out enough power and voltage to drive the driver board. the driver board would also reset on every blink on clash that way as well, giving you cuts and ramping back in all the time - and that's if you got the latching version and wired the switch pads to be always on for it.

why do you want to combine the two again?

if you wish to continue with it, may i recommend using my stunt with optional sound setup? you'll need 2 switches, but it does make things a hair simpler.

Well, the LED driver would be direct driven from the battery, and the transistor (or relay) would be used as a switch. But you're right about it turning off every time you get a clash. I hadn't thought about that. But you don't need two switches: you would just need one DPDT momentary switch (which is, in effect, two switches with one button). You would then have two independent circuits (one for sound, one for the LED driver) with a single switch. But, again, you have to beware of the time-out problem. If the sound and light get out of synch, you'll need to pull out a battery, or, if you have a recharge port, insert and remove the kill-key.

Azmaria Dei

01-20-2011, 05:31 AM

i wire my switches a little differently - main power for both the board and the LED on a latching and triggering the sound on a momentary.

[MuffinMan]

01-22-2011, 02:59 AM

Two questions:

What is that white thing you have in series with the LED? Is it a resistor?
And what sort of transistor should I ask for in my local electronics store? I said PNP when I went there today and the guy told me he had dozens of different sorts, and shapes, and so on. So, specifically, what do I need?

Azmaria Dei

01-22-2011, 03:04 AM

;190250']Two questions:

What is that white thing you have in series with the LED? Is it a resistor?
And what sort of transistor should I ask for in my local electronics store? I said PNP when I went there today and the guy told me he had dozens of different sorts, and shapes, and so on. So, specifically, what do I need?

yes, that is a high power sandstone resistor. 5W by the looks of it.

ask for a TIP42 transistor - just as it's been stated in at least 100 other places on the forum. any of the detail letters (A, B, C, G, etc...) will work as far as i've seen.

also, please read read read. i recommend starting with every stickied thread - they're stickied for a reason. thanks.

Sloda Foade

01-24-2011, 06:50 AM

I have just read all the way through this thread, and boy do my eyes hurt :). Congratulations on a really informative thread.

I have had a 2010 Hasbro Obi wan sitting around for a few months waiting for me to break it down and today I started. I wanted to replace the 2006 Obi board I had in my Adjudicator saber as the 2010 board has a much nicer sound font.
I stupidly thought I could use the same relay board I built for the 2006 sound board...how wrong was I. So I built another board. I didn't have a TIP42 transistor but did have a BD140. I tried this but the main LED came on full as soon as I pulled the recharge plug. It flickered (not going completely off which was nice) with the swing/clash but would not go off unless the recharge plug was inserted.
I checked the orientation of the transistor and it was correct, base to the LED- on the sound board, collector to the buck puck +ve, and emitter to the battery +ve. Also the transistor got really hot, so I guess the BD140 won't cut it, I'll have to drive way down to the local Jaycar shop tomorrow and try to get a TIP42C. Hopefully that will fix the problem.
I am using a 6AAA Nicad pack with a 5V regulator for th esound board and a buck puck 1000mA driving the LED. I have a choice of the original aqua, green, or a blue P4 for the LED. I think I'll go for the blue on this build.

EDIT#1
Well I just got and installed the TIP42C transistor. It doesn't run anywhere near as hot as the BD140, but the LED still turns on as soon as the kill switch is removed. I have checked the wiring and pin allocations 3 times and they should be correct according to the diagrams on page 1, except that I am driving a buck puck instead of a LED and resistor.
Has anyone else had this layout work. I noticed that someone on page 6 of this tutorial tried the same, but didn't seem to get a resolution.

EDIT#2
I found that adding a 220k resistor in line from the Hasbro board to the base of the transistor shut off the LED until the sound board was activated, then the LED came on, but it is a lot dimmer than before. I think I am going to have to change back to a relay with a PNP low power transistor on the coil to activate it. The current then comes through the transistor rather than from the hasbro board. I will try a BC558 for starters. If it works, I'll post an amended diagram specifically for relays with buck pucks.

Eureka it works. Here is the diagram. I changed the +5V line to cyan for clarity

http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y352/SlodaFoade/2010Modified-relay-puck1.jpg

[MuffinMan]

01-27-2011, 03:57 PM

Thankyou muchly for your assistance. I must apologise for failing to read the other pages on this thread. I could make excuses, but I won't; it was a silly mistake. Kudos to you guys for answering me anyway (much more courteous than many forum's I've seen).

Darth Yub Nub

01-31-2011, 08:56 PM

Hello to all,

New to the DIY crowd and before I ask my question I'd like to let you all know that I have been doing A LOT of research and reading up on forum conversations, so I hope my question doesn't make me look to noobish.

Anyways, I've read through this entire thread and I have decided to use a 5V relay with a force action soundboard (Anakin) as some have said that this gets rid of that annoying flash/clash when power the saber on/off. There are many helpful diagrams on this thread that I completely understand, but the problem is that none of them have a setup for a recharge port. I tried sketching my own diagram, and everything was going great until I got to drawing out the recharge port setup. I am beyond lost when it comes to this issue and am to afraid to try it on my own because I will most likely fry the board or LEDs. If anyone could point in the right direction to a diagram with a relay and a recharge port setup it would really help. Please and Thanks.

Sloda Foade

01-31-2011, 09:15 PM

Darth Yub Nub

01-31-2011, 10:17 PM

Try in the forums here http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?2235-Recharge-port-hookup
or here http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?8589-Cheapy-Hasbro-Wiring-Diagrams
page 58 of this thread - just the previous page, has a full circuit for a relay with a hasbro 2010 sound board, but you don't need the BC558 for the force feedback, the LED output from the sound card will drive the relay coil of a 5V relay directly...
or look on the first page of this thread!

Thank you for the info, Sloda. I've seen all those diagrams before but I guess it's just not sinking into my brain fast enough. I'm trying different wiring schemes now, and the most logical one I want to use is this one.4815

I guess what I really need to know is, is it possible to add a recharge port to this setup? If yes, is there a diagram for that? I've been trying to figure this out for days now. If no, thank you for clarifying.

Bob93r

01-31-2011, 10:36 PM

Hi guys,
I am trying my first one of these and everything is going will so far, though I did mix up two of the pins on the transistor initially, but all good now.
Now, for the question. I am running a 4 AAA pack with rechargeable batteries, an obi board, an illuminated anti-vandal and a red rebel LED. What resistor (if any) would I use for the rebel?
I have been reading (and re-reading) this thread and, while I must admit I have not read every post, it is mainly due to the fact that it is 44 degrees celcius (110F) over here at the moment and even hotter in my study. My solder is melting and the iron isn't even turned on!
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

Sloda Foade

01-31-2011, 11:30 PM

Darth Yub Nub, I believe this is what you want. It was not dificult to add the recharge port from one of the other diagrams. Note that the battery negative goes only to the middle pin of the recharge socket, and the now green circuit negative line goes to the normally closed connector on the socket. When the kill plug or recharge plug is inserted, it breaks the connection to the circuitry.
4816

Darth Yub Nub

01-31-2011, 11:37 PM

Disregard my last post. After looking over all the various possibilities for upgrading these damn econ soundboards, I've decided to just shell out a few more dollars for an ultrasound 2.5. I didn't wanna spend that much on a first project but it just seems so much simpler to wire; no fuss with upgrading tedious components. Thank you for the information, I'm going to look back into Hasbro soundboards on a later project, or at least wait until they come out with a model that doesn't have the clash/flash and power on/off flash blinking effect. For some reason it really bugs the hell out of me.:evil:

Darth Yub Nub

01-31-2011, 11:41 PM

Oh wow, I spoke to soon. I am a noob. THANK YOU Sloda. And if I'm correct, the relay will prevent the clash/flash effect on the 2010 model?

Sloda Foade

01-31-2011, 11:51 PM

G'day Bob93r, you are getting the heatwave I had yesterday.
According to the LED resistor calculator here http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz if you are driving this through a relay (ie 5V) then the resistance would be a 2Watt minimum 2.2 Ohm resistor for the Rebel LED. If it is through the transistor method, you really need to measure the voltage output, but assuming a 1volt drop through the board (generally) then a 1 Ohm 1Watt resistor should do. The anti-vandal should be in parallel to the main LED and the resistor value will depend on the colour and forward voltage of the AV LED. check the forward voltage of the AV switch you have on TCSS main shop site here http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Switches-C23.aspx and it will give you the forward voltage of the LED, then plug the numbers into the LED resistor calculator.

Darth Yub Nub, first of all the Ultrasound boards are no longer stocked on TCSS although you may be able to buy a second hand one on ebay. Disabling the flash on/off all depends on the speed of the relay used. I found that reed relays (when they work) will not switch off about 60% of the time, but sometimes they also stick on when the board is turned off. A fast relay or solid state will flash every time just like the original LED on the Hasbro board.

Bob93r

02-01-2011, 12:07 AM

Sloda is the man with all the answers today!
Thanks for the link, makes up for the embarrassment of asking the stupid questions. I am terrible at maths and trying to work out Ohm's law generally brings about suicidal tendencies in me, so I had been resorting to the resistor chart on TCSS site, but no rebel info there yet.

Thanks for the help, it is too hot to think here at the moment, let alone tackle mathematical problems!

BTW- Have you built the War Machine. I did see some renders of it in the gallery a while back, but I thought I might have missed it's unveiling.

Sloda Foade

02-01-2011, 12:16 AM

Hi Bob93r, unfortunately I have run out of funds, so I can't afford to buy the MHS parts for the War Machine, even though I have all the other bits and pieces. I am having to console myself with making PVC sabers at present
See here http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12140-2-New-PVC-lightsabers-Destiny-and-Unnamed-Jedi&highlight=Sloda+Foade

I just re-vamped the Adjudicator with an upgrade from the hasbro force action sound board to the 2010 Obi Wan (as seen on page 58 of this thread). The sounds are much better, but the swing and clash sensors aren't as effective. Maybe I need to re-position them.... sometime later.

Darth Yub Nub

02-01-2011, 06:57 PM

Yeah it's a shame they don't carry them anymore. I did some snooping around on other threads and found a link that Novastar posted.

Not sure how legitimate this site is, which makes me worry. I'll try ebay though. Thanks

Skottsaber

02-02-2011, 02:02 PM

Talk of that product is banned from the forums. ;)

Jedi-Loreen

02-02-2011, 02:11 PM

If you buy one of those boards "new", you may or may not receive it, and if you do, it may or may not work properly.

Buyer Beware.

And Skott's correct, talk of that site, and the person behind it are banned from these forums. I removed the link in your post.

Darth Scorn

02-04-2011, 12:43 AM

Can i use the basic set up as shown, just ad an accent led?

cardcollector

02-04-2011, 08:37 AM

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?10288-2010-Electronic-Lightsaber-w-DVD-Tutorial

Darth Scorn

02-04-2011, 11:22 AM

yes i saw all that great info but im trying to use the 6v basic set up no 5v regulator i want to know if i can run an accent led from the transister this way. This will be my first custom build please help

cardcollector

02-04-2011, 12:53 PM

The accent led wiring doesn't change.

If you don't use a 5v regulator and use a 6v power supply you will destroy your board.

Azmaria Dei

02-04-2011, 05:41 PM

The accent led wiring doesn't change.

If you don't use a 5v regulator and use a 6v power supply you will destroy your board.

actually the 2010 econo boards can take 6V just fine. Rhyen has wired over 30 sabers with 6V battery packs so far.

Darth Scorn

02-04-2011, 05:53 PM

yeah i read they can take 6v that is why i ask thanks for the help

Rhyen Skytracker

02-04-2011, 07:30 PM

If you don't use a resistor on the accent LED you will fry it. So be sure to use the correct resistor.

(Vsource - Vforward)/LED current = resistance

So if you have a 6 Volt power source and an accent LED that has a forward voltage of 3.3V and a current of 20 mA here is what you would get: (6V - 3.3V)/.02 = 135 ohm resistor.

To get the correct source voltage be sure to measure it between the transistor collector and the battery -.

cardcollector

02-04-2011, 08:38 PM

actually the 2010 econo boards can take 6V just fine. Rhyen has wired over 30 sabers with 6V battery packs so far.

For the record, I have used 6V (4AAA) with two of these boards, and both fried. :(

So, in my experience, they cannot take 6V...

Azmaria Dei

02-04-2011, 08:56 PM

Wade, what kind of mojo are you using with your boards? cardcollector has fried 2 boards and i fried a grievous in the past but you seem to be able to do whatever you want with them... what gives?

Darth Scorn

02-05-2011, 10:17 AM

1 more thing what is the model number for the transister so i get the right one, and I had intended on using the accent led style 2 i think it was like 2v if i remember.

Azmaria Dei

02-05-2011, 07:34 PM

1 more thing what is the model number for the transister so i get the right one, and I had intended on using the accent led style 2 i think it was like 2v if i remember.

the model number of the transistor is all over the forum... TIP42... any of the TIP42 transistors will work.

Darth Scorn

02-05-2011, 07:45 PM

im new to this, many thanks

Jedi-Loreen

02-05-2011, 08:10 PM

Still.......

You probably should have read this entire thread.

Rhyen Skytracker

02-05-2011, 09:19 PM

I don't think I have used 6Volts with any of the 2010 econo boards but I have used 6 Volts on over 30 of the force action boards and have not had any problems. With the 2010 econo boards I have been using a single Li-Ion, 4 - AAA NiMH lately.

Darth Scorn

02-06-2011, 08:26 PM

im going to give the 2010 obi-wan board a shot on 6v. I tested it out and it seemed to be ok but im new at this so what do I know, if it fry's I will hook up my vader master replicas board no worries but were do i look to find out how to put in an accent led in case my plan does infact fail?

Bothrops

02-06-2011, 08:30 PM

but were do i look to find out how to put in an accent led in case my plan does infact fail?
Let's start at the very beginning. It's a very good place to start.

Darth Scorn

02-06-2011, 09:24 PM

man you are so friggan smart why didnt i think of that g im glad to have you guys

Bothrops

02-06-2011, 09:29 PM

man you are so friggan smart why didnt i think of that g im glad to have you guys

Well, did you look at the very first post in this thread? That shows not only how to wire the econo board in multiple ways, but also how to protect your circuits with a 5V regulator.
Or, if you mean the MR board, there are threads dedicated to that, too, easily found by a bit of searching from the top page of the forums.

Azmaria Dei

02-06-2011, 09:41 PM

also the first page has wiring diagrams with accent LEDs as well.

Jedi-Loreen

02-06-2011, 09:58 PM

man you are so friggan smart why didnt i think of that g im glad to have you guys
If you continue to be rudely sarcastic, you're less likely to receive more help.

Darth Scorn

02-07-2011, 12:15 AM

forgive me for being sarcastic. what I want to do is use the schematic shown for the 2010 obi-wan econo board with accent led no recharge port i dont know where to find a 7.2v-7.4v battery source the only one ive seen is to big to put in a saber hilt can i remove only the 5v regulater and give the board 6v im new and need assistance want to get it right the first time, so i turn to the experts

Azmaria Dei

02-07-2011, 12:46 AM

first off, i would use a 4.8V NiMH pack - that's 4xAAA and will keep the voltage at an acceptable level for the econo board and you won't need a 5V regulator. if you don't want a recharge port, don't wire one in - there are plenty of diagrams for that.

Darth Scorn

02-07-2011, 11:02 AM

thanks but where can i find this 4.8v NiMH pack?

Silver Serpent

02-07-2011, 11:36 AM

As Azmaria said in her post above, a 4.8V NiMH pack is made up of 4 AAA NiMH batteries. Each battery is 1.2V, so if you wire them in series you will get 4.8V total. Premade battery packs are not sold at the TCSS store, but all the necessary parts are available. There are tutorials for battery pack making here on the forums if you search for them.

Darth Scorn

02-07-2011, 11:35 PM

thank you all for your help and forgive a noob for being rude this can be a bit frustrating when you dont fully understand electronics. One more question, can I use the nimh batteries with the 4AAA pack that has the speaker mounted to it sold in the shop?

Jordandau

02-08-2011, 12:59 AM

NiMH batteries look just like regular AA or AAA batteries, same size. They just have 1.2V instead of the 1.5 that alkalines have.

psab keel

02-10-2011, 11:20 AM

I just tried out the wiring schematic in Vctrsone's posting with the TIP 42 Transistor and it works like a charm! I even added a second momentary switch to the clash sensor to enable clashing not only when the blade makes contact with something, but to also simulate the blaster deflects. For such a cheap board, with this addition of the transistor which costs less than $2.00 you get decent sound, a bright blade, and cool light effects for your saber all without breaking the bank!

The only thing I was wondering was how many mA is the LED getting? This way I can calculate runtimes.

Thanks so much, Psab

Skottsaber

02-10-2011, 11:21 AM

Set up your DMM for current and measure in series with the LED.

StickStickly

02-24-2011, 02:46 PM

Did anyone ever get a wiring diagram up for the General Grievous Econo Board?

Azmaria Dei

02-24-2011, 02:53 PM

Did anyone ever get a wiring diagram up for the General Grievous Econo Board?

yes, Cardcollector has made a very good thread here.
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12207-2010-General-Grievous-Hasbro-Economy-Board-Guide

dustunite

02-27-2011, 06:19 PM

is it ok to run this with 6v without a 5v regulator?

cardcollector

02-27-2011, 07:32 PM

No...

RattleHornet

02-28-2011, 12:31 AM

is it ok to run this with 6v without a 5v regulator?

I always use 4AAA NiMH battery instead of 4AAA alkaline.

Tuffskull

03-16-2011, 01:16 PM

One quick question - is it possible to solder a rumbel motor somewhere in the cheapy setup? I have a motor from an cheap plastic blaster. I need only the soundboard from the blaster for a dl-44... Would be cool to solder it in a sword hilt.

Azmaria Dei

03-16-2011, 01:25 PM

i put them in all my econo sabers. but i also wire them up funny. in the basic diagram, if you wire it in parallel with the main LED with the right resistor, then you'll be fine. if you punch the motor into any LED calculator for about 2V @200mA, you'll get the resistor you need (or close enough anyway).

Tuffskull

03-17-2011, 09:22 AM

OK but if you wire it parallel to the led is it then not working permanent until I switch the sword of....? Wouldn't it be better to wire it parallel with the motion sensor???

Skottsaber

03-17-2011, 10:00 AM

The motion sensor's switching duration is far too short to be able to have a noticable effect on the motor.

Azmaria Dei

03-17-2011, 01:31 PM

i like the fact that the motor stops on blink action. like when you turn it on or off or hit something.

Tuffskull

03-20-2011, 04:08 AM

but doesn't that mean that as long as the light is on without blinking and stuff it is vibrating constantly, isn't it?

Azmaria Dei

03-20-2011, 04:11 AM

but doesn't that mean that as long as the light is on without blinking and stuff it is vibrating constantly, isn't it?

that's it exactly. i use tiny motors and only give them enough to fire up so it's not that much vibration. besides that, if you're dueling it'll turn on and off all the time.

dbluephoenix

03-25-2011, 04:03 PM

Quick question about batteries. Is there any advantage/disadvantage/danger to using 4 or 6 of the Li-Ion 14500 that TCSS sells? Will more batteries give me or on time between charges or just fry everything? Or am I good as long as I have that 5V transistor to transist the extra power? Or is it just a complete waste of money?
I just read this whole thread in a little saber marathon, so i apologize in advance if I missed or misunderstood

Tanimal

03-25-2011, 10:00 PM

That 5v regulator is rated to take up to 35 volts so you should be fine.

Azmaria Dei

03-25-2011, 10:39 PM

like Tanimal said, the 5V regulator will keep your board safe. running them in series won't give you much more runtime if any though.

Skottsaber

03-26-2011, 01:19 AM

Yeah, if you're going to do that then run them in parallel.

Ballistic Jello

03-30-2011, 10:37 AM

Hey guys, been a while since I've posted, but I wanted to say thank you to Cardcollector for the great thread, Rhyen for the truly helpful wiring diagrams (that even solder-noobs like me can use) and Greytale for originally inspiring me to build an LED saber after seeing his Utube videos. You guys rock! I've built 2 sabers so far, (a sink tube saber first and an MHS saber for my bro's birthday) and thanks to this thread, they both work, and even charge without bursting into flames. (Heh) Many thanks! Now on to my latest project...an MHS based saber inspired by Slothfurnace's sweet, sweet Derelict. This will be my first saber with one of those illuminated AV switches. (If only I could find one of those hot Acerocket Obi Wan pommels to slap on there...)

dbluephoenix

04-07-2011, 08:15 PM

Yeah, if you're going to do that then run them in parallel.

I've found lots of stuff on how to wire LEDs in parallel, but how would I do that with Lithium Ion Batteries? Does using the 7.4V pcb chip work? for a 14.8 battery pack, do I need two chips, two batteries each? Or would it be better to get a premade pack somewhere?

Azmaria Dei

04-07-2011, 09:09 PM

as i've told several people already, i'm working on a complete Li-Ion tutorial. it'll have all of that in it. please be patient. ^_^

as for a 14.8V pack, you would use 4 cells and a 14.8V PCB.

dbluephoenix

04-08-2011, 11:13 AM

as i've told several people already, i'm working on a complete Li-Ion tutorial. it'll have all of that in it. please be patient. ^_^

as for a 14.8V pack, you would use 4 cells and a 14.8V PCB.

Wasn't trying to pester, just trying to get the internal figured out so I know how big to make my chasis and saber. I look forward to your tutorial. Thanks

Skottsaber

04-08-2011, 11:19 AM

Wasn't trying to pester,

It's no big deal, it takes quite a lot to get Az angry ;)
*Also impatiently awaits said tutorial* :p

Azmaria Dei

04-08-2011, 09:24 PM

It's no big deal, it takes quite a lot to get Az angry ;)
*Also impatiently awaits said tutorial* :p

and that normally involves windows, internet explorer, computer based training, and printers. all of which i have to deal with at work. ^_^ oh happy days...

jtzako

04-09-2011, 10:41 AM

If I wanted to disable the motion sensor with a switch, would that work? There are times when I want the blade on but without the motion sounds (just the 'on' sound)

Skottsaber

04-09-2011, 10:45 AM

yes. Just put a latching switch between one of the motion sensor wires and the board.

jtzako

04-16-2011, 02:23 PM

I've wired one up myself to test. It has a lighted SPST switch and 2 accent LEDs. I actually hooked it up without the PNP transistor to test but I put the PNP on the diagram since I'll probably do it that way when I get it ready to go into the saber. The Switch LED and 2 accent LEDs dont turn on until the saber itself turns on.

The only potential downside is the Switch and Accent LEDs flash the same way the blade does. (not sure how to get around that and still have them only turn on when the rest turns on)

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv126/jtzako/saber2.jpg

jin starkiller

04-16-2011, 03:37 PM

wire them in parrellel with the main led

Azmaria Dei

04-17-2011, 03:41 AM

Jedi Mynock

04-17-2011, 09:21 PM

I just picked up a couple of these, and was wondering if anyone has used one with the driver and add on boards?

THIS.

i have the old 3watt corbin driver, and i think my old eco hasbro board died on me. Not sure though, and i cant find diagrams to check...
Anyway, its about time i try this eco obi. I heard one on youtube and its LOADS better than what i have been using. And with the corbin board im sure the flash on ignite/shutdown is eliminated.

Anyone have those diagrams!??
Could have sworn i saw them here before...

jtzako

04-22-2011, 07:32 AM

first off, don't use the LED+ pad on the econo board. wire them off of the TIP42 and in parallel with the main LED with the proper resistors. a lot of time and money has been spent on getting around the blinking of the econo boards and we still don't have much of an answer unfortunately...

second off, i'm hoping you're using NiMHs because alkalines will fry that board.

Can you explain that? What is wrong with using the LED+ on the sound board? It is a valid power source, I dont see why it would be a problem to use it.

Also, why would Alkaline batteries fry the board? The toy itself comes with them in the first place. (or is it because the battery pack I have uses 4 instead of the 3 the toy comes with?) I have considered using a spacer for the 4th battery but I wasnt sure if the 3 batteries would be enough to power the main LED properly.

Skottsaber

04-22-2011, 07:35 AM

Can you explain that? What is wrong with using the LED+ on the sound board? It is a valid power source, I dont see why it would be a problem to use it.
The transistor needs to use the battery as a source, not the LED + which goes to the processor of the board.

Also, why would Alkaline batteries fry the board? The toy itself comes with them in the first place. (or is it because the battery pack I have uses 4 instead of the 3 the toy comes with?)

Thats the reason. The boards can survive up to 5v, after that they fry. 4 NiMH cells is 1.2 x 4, which is 4.8v, whereas 4 Alkalines are 4x1.5, which is 6v.

jtzako

04-22-2011, 07:48 AM

The transistor needs to use the battery as a source, not the LED + which goes to the processor of the board.

Thats the reason. The boards can survive up to 5v, after that they fry. 4 NiMH cells is 1.2 x 4, which is 4.8v, whereas 4 Alkalines are 4x1.5, which is 6v.

OK, that makes sense. Do I need a different resistor for the main LED if I use the NiMH? Is the PNP Transistor even necessary for this? (I do not have one on my first saber and it seems fine)

Skottsaber

04-22-2011, 07:49 AM

No, and yes you do need the transistor. Well, you need it if you want to run your 1000ma LED at more than 20ma.

Rhyen Skytracker

04-22-2011, 01:14 PM

The older economy hasbro boards used to put out between 200 - 350 ma which would work for some LEDs like the CREE and P4. Keep in mind that even though they would work, they were still very underdriven. You would give a 1000 mA LED only 350 mA which would work way better than giving it less than 20 mA with the new econo boards. If you want a decent blade at all you will have to use a PNP transistor with the economy boards. I still have some older economy boards left over and I a PNP transistor with those too now.

Jucksta

04-28-2011, 04:08 PM

So I've only read part of this thread so far, but has anyone taken a reading from the board itself w/ a 6v battery supply before adding the transistor? I want to add an AV switch but trying to figure out the right resistor so I don't burn out the led on it... like I did on my last switch. I apologize if this was already covered - I'm completely new to wiring electronics and after enough reading just looking for an easy answer, at least for this issue.

Also... any idea why my clash and swing sensors are acting like switches... I'm guessing I connected something wrong, but after looking and looking I'm not seeing it.

Jedi-Loreen

05-02-2011, 11:54 AM

How are your sensors "acting like switches"? They basically are switches that change, or turn sounds on and off.

jin starkiller

05-02-2011, 01:29 PM

First welcome

also read all the stickies it will answer alot of questions that you might have

I have wired many of these econo boards and that has never occurred before

post pics of how you wired it up so we can get a visual and be able to help you better

as for the resistor it is this one from the shop

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/150ohm-14w-resistor-P24.aspx

Darth Scorn

05-06-2011, 11:31 PM

what resistor do i need to use if im useing a green rebel star with this board. i dont see the option for it on the chart in the shop I have a 4.8 pack

stegasp

05-09-2011, 08:56 AM

what resistor do i need to use if im useing a green rebel star with this board. i dont see the option for it on the chart in the shop I have a 4.8 pack

I'm doing the same set-up as you. Green rebel star w/Obi-Wan Econo board. I'm using this resistor, 2.2ohm 5W. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/22ohm-5w-resistor--P11.aspx

renexardroma

05-11-2011, 03:40 PM

(null).exe

05-11-2011, 04:01 PM

i have a luxeon k2 http://cgi.ebay.com/High-power-Green-LED-Luxeon-K2-1-5Amps-LUMILED-V-Bright-/230619391600?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Suppl ies_ET&hash=item35b1fca670#ht_500wt_1156 and a accent led for a crystal chamber http://cgi.ebay.com/50x-green-EXTRA-LED-LAMP-3MM-10000MCD-resistors-/220754954500?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3D LVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D9084603046119260833#ht_285 1wt_905 im going to buy a 2010 hasbro obi wan lightsaber http://cgi.ebay.com/Star-Wars-Electronic-Light-Saber-Obi-Wan-Kenobi-/170637565096?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27baca9ca8#ht_1876wt_1139 will this board be able to support the luxeon k2 and the accent led with a recharge port on a li ion battery ( i do not know what voltage to buy)
thanks

First, holy carp, formatting.

Next, there are numerous threads, including (if i'm not mistaken) this one, on the subject of modding hasbro boards. Please read through them, then using one of the many web-based calculators, you should be able to calculate what resistors, and voltages would be most appropriate for your desired set up.

renexardroma

05-11-2011, 06:41 PM

so i can use the luxeon k2 right

Tanimal

05-11-2011, 09:08 PM

Yes, check out the page on wiring diagrams for that board, it tells you everything. I know its a lot to read, but read it anyway. then read it again and bookmark it.

cardcollector

05-11-2011, 09:21 PM

i have a luxeon k2 http://cgi.ebay.com/High-power-Green-LED-Luxeon-K2-1-5Amps-LUMILED-V-Bright-/230619391600?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Suppl ies_ET&hash=item35b1fca670#ht_500wt_1156 and a accent led for a crystal chamber http://cgi.ebay.com/50x-green-EXTRA-LED-LAMP-3MM-10000MCD-resistors-/220754954500?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3D LVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D9084603046119260833#ht_285 1wt_905 im going to buy a 2010 hasbro obi wan lightsaber http://cgi.ebay.com/Star-Wars-Electronic-Light-Saber-Obi-Wan-Kenobi-/170637565096?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27baca9ca8#ht_1876wt_1139 will this board be able to support the luxeon k2 and the accent led with a recharge port on a li ion battery ( i do not know what voltage to buy)
thanks

Because of the vast amount of information of this forum, we encourage people to read, and do their research by themselves. Then, share your accomplishments with the community. I recommend you read the stickies in this forum. you should have answered your own question by then. :)

Azmaria Dei

05-12-2011, 03:25 AM

so i can use the luxeon k2 right

with the transistor setup in the diagrams on the very first post, yes.

Jedi-Loreen

05-12-2011, 11:58 AM

Right, what Az said. You can't run a K2 LED just from the LED output coming from the board, you'll never get 1500mA out of it, so you'll need to use a transistor.

Also, how are you going to mount that LED in a saber without it on a star base?

Causa

05-14-2011, 12:42 PM

Hey all, I've got all the parts for this build, with some Li-Ion 1850's ready to go...have for about a year, now.

However, every radio shack I go to has the 5v regulator that is the 7805C model, as opposed to the A model shown in the diagram, and shown here, on the radio shack website

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062599

The C model says that it has a maximum output of 1 amp, as well as fixing the voltage at 5 volts. I'm worried that this won't be enough power.

Will the transistor increase the amperage to feed the led properly, or do I need to hunt around for the model A, specifically?

Azmaria Dei

05-14-2011, 01:30 PM

actually, there's a 10% tolerance on most of them, so it might be able to draw a bit more without heating up too much. the A, B, and C models are all the same though.

Boj-Vaati Mau

05-14-2011, 04:39 PM

If you're using a Rebel Star, they're rated at .7 A (700 mA) so 1A (1000 mA) will be overdriving by .3 A (300 mA) and they'll still work. The p4 is rated up to 1 A so you're good there too.

Gin Malinko

05-14-2011, 10:10 PM

Thats the reason. The boards can survive up to 5v, after that they fry. 4 NiMH cells is 1.2 x 4, which is 4.8v, whereas 4 Alkalines are 4x1.5, which is 6v.

I respectfully disagree. i have built three sabers using the 2010 eco boards. both vadar and obi-wan. and i have them wired to a 4aaa bat pack with a tip42 transistor without any resistor and all three sabers have been working great for almost a year.

Azmaria Dei

05-15-2011, 09:25 AM

I respectfully disagree. i have built three sabers using the 2010 eco boards. both vadar and obi-wan. and i have them wired to a 4aaa bat pack with a tip42 transistor without any resistor and all three sabers have been working great for almost a year.

are they the older forceFX econo boards or the newer ones. the old ones could take 6V easy, but i have yet to see a new board that can take more than 5.4V. if you DO have the newer ones, congrats on finding the three that don't blow up with 6V.

jin starkiller

05-15-2011, 11:57 AM

Az I myself have used 6v in all 10 that have the econo 2010 builds that I have and not have had a problem ....they are the obi wan and the vader boards that I have used
not sure why some boards can take the 6v and others can not

Gin Malinko

05-15-2011, 06:25 PM

Curious, what does happen when they do blow? I made one the other day with a lux 3 red-orange and the sound didnt work all that well, yet the led works great. I had an extra tcss speaker i was gonna put in but during soldering i accidently ulled off the connection pads to the speaker, so i have the speaker from the eco saber in it and it sounds terrible.

But they might be the older 2010s cuz this walmart doesnt get "new" sabers in until the old ones completely run out. And not many people are rushing to buy sabers here. Idk maybe maybe not.

Azmaria Dei

05-15-2011, 06:59 PM

when the one i tested blew, the traces rippled in a few spots and the black ceramic chip coating part made a pop. i did this with a desktop DC power supply slowly going up from 3V to 5.4V

Skottsaber

05-16-2011, 12:03 AM

Yeah I have a picture of a processor I blew up on an older force action board. It's mainly the processor that can't take the extra voltage.
Even CF & PC are susceptible to more than about 6v, but they obviously have extra voltage protection on the board. ;)

Azmaria Dei

05-16-2011, 05:58 AM

yeah, there's a micro SMD voltage regulator on board for all that. 3.3V if i have my numbers right.

Gin Malinko

05-17-2011, 08:05 PM

Even CF & PC are susceptible to more than about 6v, but they obviously have extra voltage protection on the board.

Well from what ive read over at the fx-saber forums, CF v5+ can now handle over 14v according to erv.

Skottsaber

05-19-2011, 02:08 AM

It's actually 11v. What I meant was that most of the components on the board are susceptible to extra voltage (most notably the main processor and accelerometer), but the board has an onboard voltage regulator. We have to use 5v regulators in our sabers for the same reason, the main chip will blow up with the extra power. I was using the CF as an example that the same rule applies for most microprocessors across the entire range of them.

J-Saber33

05-30-2011, 01:47 PM

Hey guys, I don't think I've ever posted a question before but I'm finally working on a second saber. I've wired up an obi econo board as per this thread (thx btw) with a 3.7v li-ion 18650 and lighted AV switch. The main led is a blue P4 and I've included a recharge port. The set-up works great, and I have the switch wired so that it comes on when the kill key is removed. Now then, my question is this: can I get away with adding a red blinky led in addition to the lighted AV switch that will come on when the kill key is out? The max forward current of the blinky is 80mA and the max supply voltage is 5V. I don't think I've come across any econo builds with more than one accessory led, so I was hoping to pick the brains of the experienced econo saber builders.

Skottsaber

05-30-2011, 02:01 PM

You can, but that sounds like a mighty big LED. Normal 5mm ones are rated for about 3v and 20ma.

J-Saber33

05-30-2011, 02:29 PM

Haha, the only thing I forgot to list was the size of the blinky! It's actually a 5mm Skott, the packaging lists the typical voltage as 3V, so guess that fits the bill. Of course I think I'm going to resistor it just to be on the safe side. Thanks for the fast info!

Blair

05-31-2011, 02:44 AM

Hello,
I just got Quinlan Vos saber from tattoosby5 -> inside is Cree Green LED, right now running on 2xAAA bateries. Now, I am thinking to change voltage and add sound card from Hasbro Action saber (2010 - Vader or Obi-Wan - I did not decided yet).

I read this whole topic, but I have 2 questions:

1) When I was searching for resistor in "LED resistor chart" - Cree LED is not present there -> is there any similar LED in chart with which I can do calculation for Cree?
2) There was lot of talk about transistors -> I am not able to get one of the most recommended (TIP42G), but in topic were notes about BD912 and TIP125 (those I can get). Have anybody experience with some of those? -> which one is "better" for which voltage?

Thank you for some answers! :)

Azmaria Dei

06-02-2011, 04:21 AM

1 - if your voltages are 3.4-4.5V you won't need a resistor for that CREE. anything much more and the soundboard won't live long. personally, i would use 3 NiMH AAA batteries to give you 3.6V as that's pretty much perfect for everything you named.
2 - the BD912 is a good substitute - i've heard good things about it.

Skottsaber

06-08-2011, 05:17 AM

THE FLASH HAS BEEN DEFEATED!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtE-ChC07bo

Let me know what you think ;)

Matt Thorn

06-08-2011, 06:45 AM

THE FLASH HAS BEEN DEFEATED!!!

Let me know what you think ;)
I think you sometimes sound more British than South African.

No, seriously, I already commented on YouTube. Anyone working with this board is now going to want to tear his or her builds apart and rewire them. Brilliant stuff.

jin starkiller

06-08-2011, 06:51 AM

yes very brilliant concurr with Matt we all gonna be doing this to builds we have and any future econo builds....good stuff ...:p

cardcollector

06-08-2011, 07:05 AM

Very well done skott. I will see if I have any of these in the shop tonight and maybe post a vid like you are looking for...

Skottsaber

06-08-2011, 07:10 AM

I think you sometimes sound more British than South African.

I've only lived here for nearly 4 years. I grew up in the south of the UK until I was eleven. ;)

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Silver Serpent

06-08-2011, 07:48 AM

I have a saber at home with econo sound, and I already have to tear it apart to fix a broken wire. I'm definitely going to try your solution Skott. It's too ridiculously easy not to use (and the flicker looks neat as well).

J-Saber33

06-08-2011, 08:01 AM

Awesome work Skott! Just when I think you geniuses have taken a $20 board as far as it can go...one more (and likely the best!) configuration! I just so happen to have my obi econo set-up in a bread board on my desk and when I watched your video, I HAD to immediately see what it would look like! However, my setup is based on rhyen's solution from cardcollector's original post in the thread. I also followed cc's tut and soldered the transistor base as a bridge across all the LED -'s...so I can't get to the base pin to connect the speaker output. What I DID do was remove the collector pin lead from the main LED positive and split the speaker output to the main LED's positive panel. I turned it on and everything works as advertised! Not sure how...I'm still very new to the electronics aspect, and if the bread board wasn't a mass tangle of wires and temporary connections, I would post a quick picture. I still may do that later though. So thanks Skott for your epiphany and I am making my board a build. I will certainly post pics of the final product (minus the flash).

Azmaria Dei

06-08-2011, 08:04 AM

let's see... shimmer, 3 accent LEDs with blinking, good sound... what more do we need from a soundboard like this? great job Skott. i look forward to your next project release. ^_^

cannibal869

06-08-2011, 09:31 AM

That is sweet Skott!!!! Nice job!

Can we get a schematic when you have a spare minute?

(and did you get my email about the flash driver issue?)

Matt Thorn

06-08-2011, 09:39 AM

I've only lived here for nearly 4 years. I grew up in the south of the UK until I was eleven. ;)
Ha-hah! I was right. But you should know that you've picked up a touch of a South African twang. Funny how we can pick up the accents of the people around us. In my case, it's not an accent, but I do find that on the few occasions that I need to speak English, I say things in a Japanese way.

Found any other sabersmiths or collectors down in your part of the world yet? I know of four or five people seriously making sabers (for themselves) here in Japan, and a pretty good number of collectors.

Sorry, I'm derailing the thread.

Seriously, this "little fix" of yours represents a huge leap for us all. So, was I right, folks? Are you all kicking yourselves for not thinking of this? I know I am, big time.

Loachri MacTalabh

06-08-2011, 10:00 AM

I got my Obi 2010 task weekend. I did already solder the transistor to the LED- on the board. If I bend the pin any more I am afraid will ruin it. I would have to go and get a new one. I will do it though, but it may be some time.

Great Discovery Skott

dgdve

06-09-2011, 07:06 AM

... O.O... <.<.... >.>.... -.-... O.o.... o.O//// just WOW

Silver Serpent

06-09-2011, 07:26 AM

I rewired my wife's saber last night with Skott's modification. I'm using vader econo, p4 green, and a single li-ion in my setup. My results were good, but not ideal. The flickering effect was very pronounced, to the point that the blade appeared about half as bright as before. It did light up to full brightness when the swing and clash sounds activated though. Skott's mod adds CoF and swing flash automatically, at the expense of brightness.

The effect is nice, and I'm sure there's a solution to the brightness issue. Perhaps a different transistor with a lower threshold for activation?

The annoying flash is completely gone though. YAY!

Edit: Forgot to mention, I did go ahead and try connecting BOTH the board LED (-) leads and the speaker (-) leads to the transistor at the same time. I may have a bad solder joint or something, because there was no change vs. connecting to just the speaker. I'm thinking I'll pick up a breadboard and do some experimenting this weekend, if nobody hits on a solution before then.

Big_Furry_Oaf

06-09-2011, 09:47 PM

I'm sorry of this has been discussed in the past but some of the new toy sound boards may have gotten rid of the flash.
My older sabers would blink on/off several times on activation (like at the beginning of Skottsaber's video) but my newest one blinks bright/dim on activation and deactivation.
It doesn't have the shimmer effect while activated, though.

Marco

06-14-2011, 08:20 AM

ayn wiring diagrams to scotts magic work?

Skottsaber

06-14-2011, 08:23 AM

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1237687/TCSS%20Posts/speakersetup.jpg

Because you asked so nicely :D
I'm working on a small mod to that that fixes the brightness issues, there are 2 possible solutions I see but I'll need to test them first.

Marco

06-14-2011, 10:48 AM

cant wait for them and thanks alot!!! :)

cardcollector

06-15-2011, 05:18 AM

Ok,

Here is a video of what the flicker looks like....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNVXWGCZfqw

Silver Serpent

06-15-2011, 05:30 AM

Thanks for the video Cardcollector. That looks the same as what I got with mine, except mine is green. I haven't had a chance to run out and pick up some extra parts for experimenting yet, but I'm hoping there's a simple way to tweak the brightness. I have some ideas, but my electronics knowledge is kinda lacking. It won't stop me from trying though :)

Matt Thorn

06-15-2011, 06:32 AM

Since the problem with brightness seems to be mainly caused by dips in the current running to the speaker, I wonder if those dips could be smoothed out with a capacitor. A lot of Force FX battery/speaker have capacitors to (apparently) prevent extremely brief interruptions in power from causing the saber to not function properly.

Knighthammer

06-15-2011, 08:58 AM

Great progress guys! I'm looking forward to a final solution on this. I just pulled a obi board for a project, so perfect timing!

vargose

06-15-2011, 10:18 AM

What I DID do was remove the collector pin lead from the main LED positive and split the speaker output to the main LED's positive panel. I turned it on and everything works as advertised!.
Does that create the same dimness issue?

Graveyard One

06-21-2011, 07:30 PM

I am a bit stuck. I have my board wired up with a 5v regulator, an accent led, and a 700ma puck. I have checked and double checked that my TIP42 is wired up correctly. However when the batteries are in, the main and accent LED light up. They respond to the board being turned on by flickering appropriately, like the transistor is still pushing through the changes that cause the stock LEDs to flicker. I am stuck. Any ideas?

Skottsaber

06-22-2011, 01:15 AM

Which of the wiring diagrams are you using, and if you can, post pictures of your wiring.

jin starkiller

06-22-2011, 05:15 AM

Rhyen Skytracker

06-22-2011, 06:47 AM

Here are the results I have gotten. With the speaker - going to the transistor base and wiring the rest of the transistor as usual I am only getting 2 V @ 100mA to the LED. So the problem is not only with the current but with the voltage as well. The speaker output is 3V at a low current and when you try to power a LED or transistor with it the LED draws 2V and the speaker drops down to 1V. There are voltage boosters out there but most of them need at least 5Volts to work with. For now we are just not getting enough power off of the speaker output to power a LED bright enough to make a decent blade. To make this usable we need to output at least 3Volts @ 1000mA, preferably 1200mA. I haven't given up yet and am still working on a solution using discrete hardware. I know it can be done using a PIC controller but most people don't have access to the equipment needed to program and download the PIC controller.

Graveyard One

06-22-2011, 09:26 AM

Ok I am a little unsure of the proper resistor for my build I am using the Obi board with the recharge port setup and 7.4 battery pack and am using a P4 green I checked and the resistor that I came up with is a 10w 4.7 resistor ...I am using this diagram here ...just need some verification if my calculations are correct....thanx

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc475/tpfascaldo/Diagrams/th_2010ModifiedwithvregaccledandNOrechargeport01-10-2011.png (http://s1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc475/tpfascaldo/Diagrams/?action=view&current=2010ModifiedwithvregaccledandNOrechargepor t01-10-2011.png)

I am using this same diagram, but with a 4wire 700ma buck puck in place of the resistor. The P4 comes on dimly when power is connected, then does it's thing when the board is turned on to become very bright as it should, however it never turns completely off.

EDIT: I have tried a new TIP42, connected to the LED -, as well as the speaker, and I still have the problem. I also tried removing the buckpuck and using a resistor and I still have the problem. My gut is telling me that the transistor isnt working properly, but I don't know what to do.

SOLVED: I removed the 5v Regulator from the setup, and everything works as intended. I was planning to use a 7.4 Li-ion pack to power this, but with the current setup working, I'll just use some rechargable batteries instead.

EDIT2: I also thought that maybe for some reason the board was putting out too much power when off, and it was triggering the PNP. I wired up the TIP42 to just one LED -. It made the light dimmer while off, but still turned it on. I tried putting a resistor between the TIP42 and the board, the biggest one I have was a 4.7k 1/2W, and still had a problem. HOWEVER! When I used that resistor when hooked up to the speaker terminal, it seemed to work. However in that application, the accent LED was not getting enough power to light. I am really at a loss at this point.

Rhyen Skytracker

06-22-2011, 01:19 PM

A buck puck needs at least 5V to work properly and the econo board needs less than 6 volts. If you go over 6 volts on the econo board you will fry it.

Graveyard One

06-22-2011, 07:17 PM

I was using alkaline batteries, bringing me to 6v, the board and such are fine, but I am switching to 1.2v rechargable batteries, so it will be safer.

Silver Serpent

06-23-2011, 08:23 AM

I was poking around on FX and saw a post erv made about color-changing with the PC and power extenders. I don't know exactly what kind of specs the PEX needs to run, but it might be a viable solution. I whipped up a diagram based off erv's color changing diagram and skott's speaker mod.

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a464/Eremith/Sabers/th_speakersetup.jpg (http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a464/Eremith/Sabers/?action=view&current=speakersetup.jpg)

I have no experience using a PEX. I may try ordering one from erv for testing purposes, unless one of our more experienced sabersmiths already know if/why it will/won't work. They're not terribly expensive, I'd just have to wait a bit for shipping.

Edit: Nevermind. According to erv's site, his PEX needs 3.3v to switch over, and the speaker output isn't that high. Back to the drawing board. :(

Skottsaber

06-23-2011, 01:20 PM

Were you trying to fix the brightness issue? All a PEX is is a MOSFET, essentially doing the same as a transistor.
I actually got very nice results with J-Saber33's workaround, but I err... blew my testing LED :rolleyes: :oops: and I can't run any numbers until I get a new one.

cardcollector

06-23-2011, 01:45 PM

I actually got very nice results with J-Saber33's workaround, but I err... blew my testing LED :rolleyes: :oops: and I can't run any numbers until I get a new one.

I am going to work on this tonight. S0 I will post results by this weekend. (in addition to a new saber Lord willing...)

Rian Jardrit

06-29-2011, 05:05 AM

I am definatly going to wait with my electronics. Just ordered my hilt parts four days ago, but want to wait with electronics, because I really would like to have the hasbro 2010 electronic obi soundboard in, WITHOUT the flicker! So my eyes are still fixed on this thread, great find!!

Jedi Mynock

06-29-2011, 01:01 PM

Without flicker? You mean the flashing on ignition/shutdown? Or the flicker of the blade while its on like in the movies? Sorry just trying to clarify.

Rian Jardrit

07-01-2011, 05:21 AM

Hmmm, to be honest, I have no idea... I do want the ignition to be instant instead of the on/off flashing... Sooo, guess I ment that! ;)

PaPa_FoZzY

07-13-2011, 08:05 PM

please forgive a n00b question. I just wired up my obi wan using the speaker driven diagram but I used to leds that came with it and no PNP transistor. (still waiting on them) what does the transistor do in this setup?

Rhyen Skytracker

07-13-2011, 09:33 PM

I am still not able to get enough current to really make this option viable. We need at least 1000 mA to 1200 mA to make for a decent blade and the mose I have gotten so for is around 400 mA and that was at 2V. I even tried using a transistor to trigger another transistor and that didn't work either. There is just not enough voltage and current from the speaker to split between the LED and speaker. Hopefully when the new economy boards come out this fall they won't have the annoying blinking and will have enough current to drive a decent LED.

The economy board is a decent solution for it's price (I have wired over 100 of them) but if you want to get rid of the blinking and have enough current output to drive a decent LED then you will have to use a MR FX, PC, CF or any of the other sound boards out there.

renexardroma

07-18-2011, 12:17 PM

Does any one here know how to add a auxiliary switch?

cardcollector

07-18-2011, 02:23 PM

Does any one here know how to add a auxiliary switch?

For what purpose?

renexardroma

07-18-2011, 03:04 PM

to make clash sounds like in this video
http://www.youtube.com/user/rorykost

Jedi-Loreen

07-18-2011, 05:17 PM

Well, if you know how a sound board works with how the swing and clash sensors trigger the different sounds, it should be fairly obvious.

This question shows that you need to do more reading about sound boards (if not more reading about everything else, too).

Then you can figure it out for yourself. ;)

renexardroma

07-18-2011, 05:48 PM

Yea you gussed im new to all this stuff your right i ahould read more.

renexardroma

07-19-2011, 06:59 PM

Which set up should i go with (7.2 battery pack or 4.8)is my led going to be brighter if i has more voltage or will the resister make the equally bright?
Thankyou ( im a noob)

KuroChou

07-19-2011, 07:47 PM

If you spend any amount of time at all reading, you'll learn that it's the current, not the voltage, that makes the LED bright. Overdriving the mA will make it brighter at the cost of lifespan and increased heat output. Overvolting will just kill it.

And on that note, I think you should start asking questions--not that I think you should be asking any new questions for a few more days-- in other threads more relevant to your specific questions.
We all come off a little harsh, but it's hard to have patience when people start asking questions that could be answered with a simple search typed in that little white box at the top right hand of the site.
In this particular case, you could just as easily have found the answer on google.

renexardroma

07-20-2011, 05:13 PM

ok i will do extensive research before a question is posted but thank you anyway for the response

Cern

07-23-2011, 11:17 AM

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!

Been trying to wire this Vader 2010 board up all night. first the LED worked then the sound didn't then the sound worked and the LED didn't.

I think i fragged the traces on the board for the LED, so this was a god send. WOOT!

Gonna go and epoxy up some of the loose bits and then on to post pix!

renexardroma

07-23-2011, 08:07 PM

has anyone used a green rebel with the 2010 hasbro (please post a picture if so) because i saw skytrakers video of his green p4 lightsaber for krrey and it looked bright so im deciding between a p4 and a rebel.

stegasp

07-23-2011, 09:30 PM

Rex. I have a green Rebel Star in my saber using the econo sound. Pics are on the threads for my sabers.

Link: Resilience (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12963-Resilience-by-stegasp)
Link: Build thread (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?12974-stegasp-s-Resilience-build)

renexardroma

07-24-2011, 10:35 AM

what was the length of your blade

renexardroma

07-24-2011, 11:24 AM

or could you supply all the specs

stegasp

07-27-2011, 01:51 PM

I used a 36" trans white battle blade. Then I triple wrapped gift-wrap cellophane (clear) for the blade core. I used the 4AAA battery pack with 4 1.2V rechargeable NIMH batteries. The rechargeable batteries are necessary to keep the voltage under 5V, anything above 5V will burn out the econo sound card. I used the 2.2ohm 5w Resistor for this with an SPST Momentary guarded switch. What other questions do you have?

renexardroma

07-28-2011, 07:57 PM

Thanks

did you use a transister, or because it was under 5 v you did not have to?

Jedi-Loreen

07-29-2011, 05:42 PM

I think you are confusing a transistor with a 5v regulator. They are not the same thing.

JudgeKane

08-01-2011, 02:07 AM

5570

Ok so I've been trying to get the whole flicker on idle thing working and this is what i was suggested by a friend of mine, I had a go but it's not any brighter, BUT i think he mentioned a darlington pair...where as i just have two transistors of the same type, can anyone expand/test out? or see any glaring problems? :-)

I'm convinced there will be a way to do this lol

Skottsaber

08-01-2011, 03:35 PM

We tried a darlington pair with TIP42's and had no luck.
Using a certain kind of MOSFET I've gotten 0.9A into a P4. I've got some new ones coming that should work.

Darth Nater

08-02-2011, 12:28 AM

Has anyone used the econo board setup with a DX RBG? I've spent a good 3 hours of searching at random over the past few weeks and found nothing. Would like to use a 7.4 lithium ion (no recharge port) in a 2AA holder, but have no idea what size resistors for the blue & red.

Silver Serpent

08-02-2011, 06:40 AM

http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

This is your friend for calculating resistors. Look up the specs on your LED, and plug in the values. Do the red and blue separately, since they'll almost certainly have different Vf values.

Darth Nater

08-02-2011, 08:52 PM

Yes, I've had that bookmarked for a while and was messing with it right before I gave up and posted, but I didn't know if the "driving voltage" and the "forward voltage" were the same thing. I also didn't know if the source voltage is going to 7.4v or 5v or what due to it being regulated down to the econo board and then upped back with the 5V transistor. Or maybe this is something that would have to be measured with the whole thing in hand for a correct figure rather than speculated.

Another thing, I dont know anything about this stuff other than what I can try and learn myself (since most answers you see from previous questions are just telling somebody to read more), but I'm going to assume that on a 3W RGB, you will need resistors to each die of course. If I plug in 350MA, 2.5 forward voltage, and 5V source, its giving me a 2W 8.2ohm resistor, which just sounds odd since it seems like half of the setups I've read about used a lower ohm resistor. So I'm about to the point where no matter how much I read, its all just my own speculation until I can find someone that actually knows and more importantly is willing to say.

Silver Serpent

08-03-2011, 10:07 AM

The source voltage is going to be either 7.4v or 5v, depending on your wiring. You can connect the pos line that heads to the transistor to a point BEFORE or AFTER the 5v regulator. Anything after the regulator will only receive 5v. Your econo board definitely needs to be after the regulator.

Forward voltage is determined by your LED itself. It's basically the amount of voltage needed to make it light up properly.

You are correct that your resistor is higher than the values we usually use. Most of the LEDs commonly used (rebels, P4s, LedEngins) are being driven at 700ma-1500ma on up. You're only calculating at 350ma. I don't know which exact LED you have, so I'm not sure what an appropriate current would be for your specific model. Some are more sensitive than others.

Darth Nater

08-03-2011, 07:42 PM

Thank you. This explains a few things to me. I think what I was hung up on was that the LED will be after the TIP42 transistor, and I'm assuming most likely, that voltage would likely need to be measured to be accurate on what voltage is coming out of the transistor. Also, if you parallel the positive from the transistor to 2 dies, does the voltage split or remain the same?

Silver Serpent

08-04-2011, 07:46 AM

Parallel circuits split current, voltage remains the same.

Darth Nater

08-07-2011, 10:30 PM

Total failure today.

I have a DX RGB and changed my mind to run it off a 6V 4AAA setup through the obi wan board. No doubt trying to get purple out of it. Its the normal econo board wiring setup through the TIP42 transistor, though the LED is marked with a single negative and then a postive for each die. Everything I've ever read says they are marked incorrect and the single negative is actually a single positive with the negative being for each die.

I got three 3W 25ohm potentiometers at radio shack today. Wired the positive out of the transistor to the single negative on the DX star (mislabeled LED so call it the positive I guess). Wired the 3 negatives from the LED parallel to the 3 pots, and then parallel from the pots to the battery negative.

I used a multimeter on each pot to make sure the resistance was at a safe setting (not too low) and I used the settings for a 6V power source for each die. (I couldnt figure out how to meter the soundboard to get actual voltage after the TIP42. Tried holding there and to the battery negative, but never registered a number. Dont know how to do this evidently)

The LED is sitting on a large heatsink taken from a broken Xbox 360 so no heat issues. But I dont have it in a blade holder and don't have a lens on it either. Upon powering it up, it works, but I can't really tell much by way of color. Really just looks white mainly. I removed a blade from another saber and held over it while I messed with the pots, but it didn't do much by way of being able to see a lot of difference. I had the green trimmed back to 25ohms and I figure this would really dim it. Finally just disconnected the green. From there, its a whitish pink. No color was ever very bright, they were all mainly white. The lowest I ever let the blue get was around 7.5ohms and the red maybe 12.

Tell me that having it in a blade holder with optics and a blade attached is a requirement for accurate testing. Thats one thing I didnt do. I've got no clue how to do this evidently. Probably spent 6-8 hours over the past few weeks searching for topics on what parts, where to get them, how to color mix and asked minimal questions out of fear of being told to read more. Granted they are cheap LED's from China so if its a bust, I'm only out like $10 for 3 of them (got extras in case I screwed up), but several others have had success with them so I'd sure like to try.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

5600