PDA

View Full Version : new ideas to incorporate in design



widowmaker
02-06-2010, 03:06 PM
scrolling/chasing LED. make sure you watch the youtube video on the bottom of the page.

http://cgi.ebay.com/8-LED-Knight-Rider-PIC-Chaser-Light-Show-NEW_W0QQitemZ230433118538QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item35a6e2594a

http://cgi.ebay.com/8-LED-Chaser-PIC-Microcontroller-Light-Show-Multi-Color_W0QQitemZ230430247595QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_C onElec_LightingLEDsStrobes_RL?hash=item35a6b68aab

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28odSOh-Aog&feature=related

VU Meter

http://www.youtube.com/user/hobbykitbg#p/u/7/F89Ggr13uZA


Do a search on youtube and you will get the idea. these should be able to be used/controlled with a CF.

Another good idea is this Mini Plasma Ball

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Pilot-Ip-140pl-Mini-Thunder-Plasma-Ball-Car-Pendant_W0QQitemZ320483833119QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH _DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4a9e53351f

hope you like them. would like to see the plasma ball in the saber contest.

Jedi-Loreen
02-06-2010, 03:41 PM
That mini plasma ball is kind of cool, I've never see one that small. I see the quarter in the photo for scale, but it looks like it might be too big to fit inside an MHS hilt, to me. I also don't know how fragile one of those things is.

Not to mention the fact that, since you plug it into a cigarette lighter, it means it runs on 12V.

Still an interesting idea though.

Rhyen Skytracker
02-06-2010, 03:58 PM
Those LED sequencers are to big to fit in a saber, but there are some out there that will fit in a saber very easily. I like the plasma ball, I may have to try to get one to see if it will fit.

Skottsaber
02-07-2010, 03:10 AM
The plasma ball could be the new crystal chamber! Power matrix... anyone?

mihunai
02-07-2010, 03:39 AM
One of those sequencers will allready be put into a saber soon enough :cool:
Nice find on the plasma ball though.

mTm

Rhyen Skytracker
02-07-2010, 08:03 AM
It is not one of those sequencers, it is a much smaller one. The down side to it is you have to solder all the LEDs yourself and believe me, that is a lot of soldering to do for that board. I extended the wires on the LEDs so I could put them anywhere on the saber, but that was just to test.

mihunai
02-07-2010, 03:17 PM
Lots of soldering indeed... 16 blinkies worth of soldering to be precise. :)
But rest assured, it'll all work out in the end.
i hope...

Anyway, back on topic,
once those VU meters become smaller, i see them making a bigger part
in custom sabers all around.
I mean, blinkies dont do that much, and can be quite random,
sequencers may be pretty, but give no feedback whatsoever,
bargraphs just scroll up and down,
VU-meters look pretty, and give a feedback on the sound/main LED/etc...

mTm

Kal El Rah
02-07-2010, 03:39 PM
I figured I'd measure the diameter of a quarter, well it's almost 1 in. so the plasma ball looks to be 2 in. I did read that it might be 1.5 in. but even at that size, it wont fit.

Jedi-Loreen
02-07-2010, 04:34 PM
That's what I was thinking, that it looked to be about 1 1/2" in diameter.

Shadar Al'Niende
02-07-2010, 10:40 PM
...Not to mention the fact that, since you plug it into a cigarette lighter, it means it runs on 12V.

Still an interesting idea though.

Good call J-lo. The picture on that listing shows (if you look close) 12v on the package...


http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/0/8/9/0/7/2/webimg/310352796_o.jpg

ARKM
02-08-2010, 12:56 AM
I'm guessing that's an inverter I see connected to that mini plasma ball so it probably runs off of AC. Could drain any battery solution we could come up with really fast. Should be fun to experiment with though. If all else fails, it could work great with a protosaber that is cabled to a 12v battery, strapped to your waist or back.

Matt Thorn
02-08-2010, 01:46 AM
Here's a somewhat informative user review from Amazon:

Works as well as you'd hope, plasma is bright and stable, comes with a small coin-cell battery pack and a cigarette lighter adaptor and an inline push-button switch (for the battery pack). Although be warned if you hack it up (I removed the outer plastic shell, battery pack, and switch to use the ball as a steampunk prop) you'll destabilize the groundplane and have some interesting issues running it. But most people probably leave it alone, in which case it runs fine (stock 12V battery will last about 45mins continuous usage).
I went ahead and ordered one, though it'll be a while since I get it, since they don't ship to Japan, so I'll have it forwarded by a friend. I have an idea of what I'd like to do with it. I'll let you know if it proves to be practical.

BTW, all plasma globes use alternating current. The effect cannot be created with direct current.

ARKM
02-08-2010, 10:36 AM
[/INDENT]I went ahead and ordered one, though it'll be a while since I get it, since they don't ship to Japan, so I'll have it forwarded by a friend. I have an idea of what I'd like to do with it. I'll let you know if it proves to be practical.

I ordered one yesterday.

cannibal869
02-08-2010, 11:53 AM
Here's a somewhat informative user review from Amazon:

Works as well as you'd hope, plasma is bright and stable, comes with a small coin-cell battery pack and a cigarette lighter adaptor and an inline push-button switch (for the battery pack). Although be warned if you hack it up (I removed the outer plastic shell, battery pack, and switch to use the ball as a steampunk prop) you'll destabilize the groundplane and have some interesting issues running it. But most people probably leave it alone, in which case it runs fine (stock 12V battery will last about 45mins continuous usage).
I went ahead and ordered one, though it'll be a while since I get it, since they don't ship to Japan, so I'll have it forwarded by a friend. I have an idea of what I'd like to do with it. I'll let you know if it proves to be practical.

BTW, all plasma globes use alternating current. The effect cannot be created with direct current.

If I'm not mistaken, the EL wire power inverters also use alternating current? I'm no electronics wiz, but maybe one of the others here will chime in? Can we mod an EL wire power inverter to power the plasma ball?? Hmm.. I wonder. I just finished a padawan saber that used a modded 4AAA battery holder to power an MR board (4.5V) and a 1.5V EL wire power inverter.

Hmm.. I may have to pick one of these up as well..

-C

ARKM
02-08-2010, 12:56 PM
If I'm not mistaken, the EL wire power inverters also use alternating current? I'm no electronics wiz, but maybe one of the others here will chime in? Can we mod an EL wire power inverter to power the plasma ball?? Hmm.. I wonder. I just finished a padawan saber that used a modded 4AAA battery holder to power an MR board (4.5V) and a 1.5V EL wire power inverter.

Hmm.. I may have to pick one of these up as well..

-C

It's possible. It just depends on the current and voltage going from the inverter to the plasma ball and if we can find an inverter with the same output but with less DC voltage/current input. The plasma ball also might be able to work with less than what it's getting from the stock inverter.

TroyO
02-08-2010, 03:15 PM
If that plasma ball is 1.5 inches is would nestle in just about hafway for an interesting pommel.

It would DEFINITLEY (IMHO) make an awesome addition to a custom charger!

widowmaker
02-08-2010, 05:53 PM
there is a guy in Orange County California selling 2 for $10 on craigs list. He has a lot of them and I am waiting for a reply to see if he private auction on ebay.

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/search/?areaID=103&subAreaID=&query=plasma+ball&catAbbreviation=sss

the plasma balls are 1.6" in diameter and are 12v @ 350mA. the little power pack/driver is I believe a transformer(DC to AC). you can get 3.5" plasma balls that use 4AA batteries. i am waiting for mine to arrive so I can change the power supply. It also responds to music/sound like the plasma discs. I talked to a plasma ball expert/maker and he said you can transfere into a smaller container. Also you can make the crystal chamber into a plasma tube. the crystal would be the electrode(the round ball in the center) and a plexy glass, glass, plastic tube could be used for the outside(sphere) and if you want authentic you can have them filled with gas to get different colors. I dont own a variable power supply so I cant tell you about how it reacts to various voltage and amps. I also found that the ball can be used as a power supply in itself. it can power LEDs. would need a voltage regulator most likely.

Sláinte

widowmaker
02-08-2010, 06:22 PM
moving onto the LED Sequencers(scrolling) and VU meter(noise responder). i know they are too big to fit inside a saber hilt, but what i was getting at was the concept/idea of incorporating them into a hilt. It could scroll up on power up, scroll down on power down. all flash on clash. battlestar gallactica back and forth on idle. outside in on swing etc...

The VU meter, which scrolls when it senses sounds and vibration, could be used in conjuction with clash, blaster deflect, and so much more.

also you can position the leds into any format of your choosing, doesnt have to be a straight line. the leds could be round pattern, square, circle, diagonal, zig-zag, diamond, oval, triangle etc... and they could be 3mm, 5mm or whatever your pleasure, RGB for different color combinations. mounted on seperate boards on extensions or programmed into a BT/CF, the potential is endless. should be able to double as a battery life meter.

Sláinte

cannibal869
02-11-2010, 04:38 PM
Just FYI - that octagonal "UFO Chaser" LED sequencer is 47mm across the face - pretty darn big actually... too bad, but it won't fit inside a saber the way it is currently constructed.

ARKM
02-12-2010, 04:55 PM
From Wikipedia regarding plasma globes/balls...


"Potential hazards

Caution should be made when placing electronic devices near or upon the plasma lamp: not only may the glass become hot, but the high voltage may place a substantial static charge on the device, even through a protective plastic casing. The radio frequency field produced by plasma lamps can interfere with the operation of touchpads used on laptop computers, digital audio players, cell phones, and other similar devices. Some types can radiate sufficient RFI to interfere with cordless telephones and Wi-Fi devices several feet away. Additionally, when a metal object (such as a coin) is placed on the surface of a plasma lamp's glass, a danger of shock and burning exists; it is very easy for electricity to be emitted from the lamp if the metal comes in contact or proximity with certain other materials, including human tissue. If a medium-sized lamp is wrapped in grounded metal foil, capacitive coupling can transfer tens of milliamperes to ground through the foil, enough to light a small lamp or give a small arc burn. This is possible because the glass acts as a capacitor dielectric: the inside of the lamp acts as one plate, and any conductive object on the outside acts as the other capacitor plate.

In addition, it is possible (although difficult) to cause a minor burn to the finger by hovering the fingertip just above the surface of the glass. This causes a small arc to form and generate heat by simultaneously "optimising" both the voltage across the gap and the current through it.[citation needed] If the orb becomes wet or is covered in a metallic substance, such as a coin or tinfoil, arc burning becomes much less difficult.

Ozone, which is harmful to humans, may also accumulate far outside of the surface of the glass orb after a few minutes of constant operation. It accumulates at a higher rate if a hand or metal object is placed on the glass.

Since the plasma ball also releases electromagnetic radiation, a person with a pacemaker or other internal electrical medical device should not touch the ball. In extremely rare instances, electromagnetic radiation interferes with implanted electronic devices."



It sounds like the clear plastic ball of the plasma globe should be insulated from the metal in the hilt and should not be handled by people with internal/implanted electronic devices. It also could interfere with a soundboard.

I got mine today. I'll post pics and dimensions later.

Sunrider
02-12-2010, 05:44 PM
I wouldn't worry about any radio interference anymore than an EL setup. This will have problems functioning properly in a hilt tho. These balls need a few inches of isolation from anything but certain kinds of plastic to work properly. If you see the arc concentrating at a single spot for long it will overheat. They are pretty fragile too.

ARKM
02-12-2010, 07:42 PM
Ok, here's the info I have on my plasma ball...

The package I got does not look the same as the one in the ebay link in the first post or like the one on Amazon.com (which is where I ordered my plasma ball from). The invoice says it's a mini thunder ball but I'm guessing I got an older package as it is the same brand name and both are described as being a "pendant". Please keep in mind that the one in the above mentioned ebay link was heavily disassembled.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_PlasmaBall-01.jpg (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/PlasmaBall-01.jpg)

The OD of the ball is 1.824 (about 1-13/16"). Basically that means it's only useful for that one double-bladed TOR saber (that most of us have seen a render of) or a pommel. However, neither the two battery packs nor the inverter case will fit in a 1.25 ID. In fact, the inverter case won't even fit in a 1.375 ID (the battery packs will). It may be possible to fit the inverter in a hilt without it being in it's protective case (in which case it would need some shrink wrap or something around it). I won't know until I disassemble it. Obviously the battery packs can be replaced with something that will fit in the average saber hilt.

The Plasma Ball setup is basically two "units". The first unit contains the plasma ball, inverter and male cigarette lighter plug. The second unit contains two battery packs, a momentary push button switch and a female cigarette lighter adapter.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_PlasmaBall-02.jpg (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/PlasmaBall-02.jpg)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_PlasmaBall-03.jpg (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/PlasmaBall-03.jpg)

Each battery pack contains ten G13-A 1.5 volt batteries. The battery packs are wired in parallel with a zener diode on the positive wire that connects the two battery packs and the switch together.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_PlasmaBall-04.jpg (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/PlasmaBall-04.jpg)

The plasma ball lit up.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_PlasmaBall-05.jpg (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/PlasmaBall-05.jpg)

From left to right... the plasma ball suspended in mid-air above the bottom of a lightsaber hilt that has had the pommel removed, the ball sitting on the unprotected hilt and the ball sitting on two layers of electrical tape that is on the hilt.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_PlasmaBall-06.jpg (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/PlasmaBall-06.jpg)

A video of me lowering the plasma ball onto the hilt.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_plasma_ball.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/?action=view&current=plasma_ball.mp4)

As you can see by that last pic and by the video, the electrical tape did not help.

To use this ball in a saber, one would probably want at least 3 curved pieces of metal going around it so that the "lightning" doesn't all mass in one place, which could cause heat issues. This is assuming that the inverter can be made to fit.

Rhyen Skytracker
02-12-2010, 07:51 PM
I wonder if you can get a low voltage EL inverter to work with it. I have some that can use 3 - 6 volt input voltage and they work great with EL wire.

ARKM
02-12-2010, 11:05 PM
I wonder if you can get a low voltage EL inverter to work with it. I have some that can use 3 - 6 volt input voltage and they work great with EL wire.

I tried an EL inverter (driver) that uses 9 to 13.8 volts for the input. I used a good 9V battery connected to the inverter and tested the output on my tongue. Definatwy wooking. ;) Sadly it would not power the ball at all. However, I did remove the inverter from it's casing (I had to destroy the casing to get it out) and measured it diagonally. It is only about 1.050 OD so it will fit in a hilt.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_PlasmaBallInverter-01.jpg (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/PlasmaBallInverter-01.jpg)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_PlasmaBallInverter-02.jpg (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/PlasmaBallInverter-02.jpg)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_PlasmaBallInverter-03.jpg (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/PlasmaBallInverter-03.jpg)

On another note, the output to the plasma ball is only one wire. Yep, you heard me... one wire. Here's the pics.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_PlasmaBall-OneWire-01.jpg (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/PlasmaBall-OneWire-01.jpg)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_PlasmaBall-OneWire-02.jpg (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/PlasmaBall-OneWire-02.jpg)

Neat eh?

Novastar
02-13-2010, 01:03 AM
Trouble + effort + frustration => gimmick.

ARKM
02-13-2010, 02:50 AM
I like some gimmicks. The plasma ball is a gimmick that I personally would like to see on a saber so eventually, I will give it a go.

Simmo
02-14-2010, 05:53 AM
I would love to see like a flyback transformer effect inside a very well insulated crystal chamber :D

Thanks for posting that ARKM that was interesting to read.

Matt Thorn
02-14-2010, 08:13 AM
On another note, the output to the plasma ball is only one wire. Yep, you heard me... one wire. Here's the pics.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_PlasmaBall-OneWire-01.jpg (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/PlasmaBall-OneWire-01.jpg)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_PlasmaBall-OneWire-02.jpg (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/PlasmaBall-OneWire-02.jpg)

Neat eh?
Kewl. It reminds me of the "magic/more magic" switch story (http://www.retrologic.com/jargon/magic-story.html).

I'm with ARKM. This is one gimmick I would love to incorporate in a saber.

TroyO
02-14-2010, 08:21 AM
LOL... that is a great story.

I may put a switch like that on my Lathe.... Magic/More Magic

"More magic" please!

Goltar Bias
02-14-2010, 02:17 PM
Has anyone tried setting the ball on a polyc tube and seeing if it attracks the plasma? Just an idea if it worked you could use the tube as a setting for the ball in a crystal chamber, which would have to be flared out to accomadate the ball.

ARKM
02-14-2010, 02:19 PM
Has anyone tried setting the ball on a polyc tube and seeing if it attracks the plasma?

I'll try that later today Goltar.

EDIT: Ok, I tried it on some 1" OD thick-walled polyC. The polyC barely attracted anything so using it to support the ball on either end is a good idea. However, like I have already mentioned, the ball is very large (1-13/16" OD) and will not work for certain saber applications.

On another note, I hooked up a regular 9V battery to the inverter and the plasma ball ran fine so there's another battery solution right there.

EDIT 2: It would appear that my plasma ball is now dead. I'm not sure what caused it. I tried the 9V battery twice with no problems but now neither that nor the stock batteries will power it. Maybe the 9V killed the inverter or ball. *sigh*

KuroChou
02-18-2010, 11:34 PM
a VU meter would definitely make for some interesting clash effects, as though it were reading power feedback from the blade.

Luke-SkyMarcher
02-19-2010, 07:27 AM
On another note, the output to the plasma ball is only one wire. Yep, you heard me... one wire. Here's the pics.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_PlasmaBall-OneWire-01.jpg (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/PlasmaBall-OneWire-01.jpg)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/th_PlasmaBall-OneWire-02.jpg (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Plasma%20Ball/PlasmaBall-OneWire-02.jpg)

Neat eh?

I'm not quite sure about the theory behind it, but it works the same way this does:

http://www.ramseyelectronics.com/cgi-bin/commerce.exe?preadd=action&key=PG13

I have one of those kits, and you can make a super-charged plasma ball simply by setting an ordinary light bulb on the one contact.
You can also get some other fun effects like sparks from a screwdriver and lighting florescent tubes without even making contact. (You bring them close to the contact, and they start glowing.)

If I remember correctly, the old neon tube "plasma sabers" worked with only one contact as well. I believe that is also how their extend/retract feature was managed.

Sunrider
02-19-2010, 12:36 PM
Hey cool it's like a tiny tesla coil. If it was half that small you could try to use it. Just don't let it get on the other PCBs.;)

RayVader
03-08-2010, 09:16 PM
All,
I have one prototype touch sensitive saber. If you rip out the guts to the cheap plastic FX lightsabers; they use a momentary switch to latch the circuit on or off. Very little electricity is needed to make it latch. What I did for my prototype was use 2 small pieces of brass tape. I wired one switch wire to the hilt housing and soldered one wire to one piece of brass tape that is isolated from the hilt. I have them really--really close together that all it takes is the very tiny current to pass through the skin and make the saber power on and off.
It works--kind of. I have to make it just a little more sensitive. I use my thumb and my skin must be clean and wet---yes sometimes I need to wet my thumb a bit....but it does work. I was thinking of using the capacitive reactive circuit used on most touch lamps. I think it would be neat to have a steel or brass thumbscrew (isolated form the hilt by nylon washers) that when you touch it, it makes the lightsaber power on/off.

Anyone have any ideas and does this sound cool? I think it makes them very unique you could even hide the touch part----Oh my--where's the on/off button---just touch here---WOW!!

RayVader

Novastar
03-10-2010, 03:33 PM
Ray.. there is nothing wrong with the idea (yup, maybe takes some perfecting)... and it has been done before, it's true.

In my case, it is not something *I* would use, as... if you touch the pad/"touch switch" area while using the saber (when it's already on)... you're bound to shut it off by accident, and vice-versa.

But yeah, it's a fine idea! There are many ways to set up a switch, and many ways to recess/hide one... and sure, touch-switches are one way!

Anakin2Solo
03-11-2010, 07:36 PM
I love the idea of a touch switch. I have been looking into building my own. I like the brass tape idea you used. Very original.

RayVader
03-11-2010, 10:13 PM
I thought about the possible ACCIDENTS of turning it on/off. If the touch sensitive area is put somewhere other then normally you hold the saber. Maybe just keeping my original idea where you have to touch two areas to complete the circuit would help against accidental on/off.
Hmmm.
I will continue my prototyping.

I used the brass tape just as a way of "proof of concept." I am now thinking of having two isolated rivets that you touch and when your thumb touches both, the saber powers on/off. But the two rivets would just look like accents. I could even use brass rivets since brass, or even copper, are better conductors.

Skottsaber
03-12-2010, 06:59 AM
Why not put them in the pommel? Unless anybody here has a good reason for touching the pommel while duelling?

RayVader
03-12-2010, 05:47 PM
Very possible!