Strydur
10-27-2005, 09:13 PM
05 MR Vader Conversion
This tutorial will show you how to convert your 2005 Master Replicas Vader to a 3watt Luxeon using the conversion kit that I offer. The saber will retain all sound functions and use the original switch. You must make sure your hilt is the same design as the one shown in this tutorial. I make no guarantees that the wiring etc that I say to use in this tutorial will be the same in all models. You will need to have basic soldering and mechanical skills to do the conversion. You can reuse the stock MR blade by putting some clear or reflective tape around the base to make it a tad bit bigger. When finished you will have one very strong saber as everything between your hands and the PolyC blade will be metal to metal with no weak plastic.
PARTS LIST:
MR Vader ESB Saber
Conversion Kit (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MR-or-Hasbro-FX-Vader-conversion-kit-P343.aspx)
8.7 Degree Collimator Lens (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Collimator-Lens-87-deg-viewing-angle-P537.aspx)
Lens Holder (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/CreeRebel-Lens-Holder-P999.aspx)
Cree Star LED (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Cree-XP-E2-C136.aspx)
Thermal Tape (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Star-thermal-tape-pad-P483.aspx)
Optional but recommended
Complete 1" Blade to replace factory one (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Complete-Blades-C13.aspx)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_01.jpg
Picture of stock vader.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_02.jpg
Another picture of stock vader.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_03.jpg
Remove the end cap and battery pack.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_04.jpg
Remove the 2 flat head screws and the 2 thumb screws shown by the arrows.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_05.jpg
Remove the phillips head screw shown by the arrow.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_06.jpg
Remove the small pin shown by the arrow. (this can be hard to do without damaging pin).
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_07.jpg
You can now remove the large pin shown by the arrow.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_08.jpg
The two side covers as shown by the arrow can now be removed.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_09.jpg
Remove the two phillips head screws shown by the arrow. (some models may vary in style).
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_10.jpg
Remove the switch cover and then cut the switch wires and push them inside the hole.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_11.jpg
Pry off three plastic wire looking thingys. (these can also be hard to remove without damaging them)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_12.jpg
You can now remove the blade and electronics assembly from the hilt.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_13.jpg
Remove the two pins shown by the arrows using a hammer and a punch.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_14.jpg
Remove the two pins shown by prying them off with a small screwdriver.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_15.jpg
You can now disassemble the assembly. If your model has the quick disconnect setup as shown in this picture then the following electronics will look different.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_16.jpg
Remove the pin as show by the arrow. The easiest way to do this is to take a small nail punch and push the pin all the way through.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_17.jpg
Remove the led strip from the blade and split the housing to expose the wiring. (your wiring will look different if you have the quick disconnect style blade)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_18.jpg
Now wire the LED to the heatsink. Now is when you put on the thermal tape (not shown). It sticks between the LED and heatsink.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_19.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_20.jpg
Blue wire on shock sensor connects to Positive terminal on LED
Purple wire from connector connects to Positive terminal on LED
Gray wire leave alone
Brown,Red,Orange,Yellow,Green, and Blue wire from connector connects to negative terminal of LED
Remember to slide the heatshrink tubing on before you solder!
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_21.jpg
Hook up and test to make sure everything works. Now put the LED assembly to the side for a while.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_22.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_23.jpg
Line up the new holder next to the stock holder as shown by the red line. Simply line up the tops of the two blade holders. Using the back end of the new holder as a guide mark the stock holder as shown by the green line. Cut the stock holder at the marked location.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_24.jpg
From left to right. Remainder of stock blade holder (Save this!), metal blade holder, old blade holder (throw away).
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_25.jpg
Screw the heatsink into the blade holder, along with the optics.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_26.jpg
Take the blade holder and the small section that you just cut. There are three holes on each side of the plastic part. On one side, the holes are not aligned. Line up the large hole on that side with the string of threaded holes on the blade holder. Then take the portion of plastic with the sound board in it and attach it to the blade holder unit. Align it so that the switch wires are opposite the string of threaded holes on the blade holder.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_27.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_28.jpg
Drill a 11/64 hole as shown so that the thumb screw can pass through the hilt. After this smooth out all the holes on the inside of the hilt so the holder will not snag on them.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_29.jpg
Tape the switch wires down, so that they do not snag on the inside of the hilt.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_30.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_31.jpg
Push your new assembly into the hilt and align all the holes. Use the supplied phillips head machine screw to hold the assembly in place. Also, screw in the blade retention screw.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_32.jpg
Pull out the switch wires resolder them to the switch.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_33.jpg
You can now re-install everything in reverse. To reuse the wire looking thingys you will need to grind/file off a portion of them so they will mount flush. The two wires on the left have not been ground, but the one on the right has.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_34.jpg
The completed hilt.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_35.jpg
Looking down inside the emitter.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_36.jpg
Comparison shot of converted with stock blade (on top) and stock setup with a led or two missing (bottom).
This tutorial will show you how to convert your 2005 Master Replicas Vader to a 3watt Luxeon using the conversion kit that I offer. The saber will retain all sound functions and use the original switch. You must make sure your hilt is the same design as the one shown in this tutorial. I make no guarantees that the wiring etc that I say to use in this tutorial will be the same in all models. You will need to have basic soldering and mechanical skills to do the conversion. You can reuse the stock MR blade by putting some clear or reflective tape around the base to make it a tad bit bigger. When finished you will have one very strong saber as everything between your hands and the PolyC blade will be metal to metal with no weak plastic.
PARTS LIST:
MR Vader ESB Saber
Conversion Kit (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MR-or-Hasbro-FX-Vader-conversion-kit-P343.aspx)
8.7 Degree Collimator Lens (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Collimator-Lens-87-deg-viewing-angle-P537.aspx)
Lens Holder (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/CreeRebel-Lens-Holder-P999.aspx)
Cree Star LED (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Cree-XP-E2-C136.aspx)
Thermal Tape (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Star-thermal-tape-pad-P483.aspx)
Optional but recommended
Complete 1" Blade to replace factory one (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Complete-Blades-C13.aspx)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_01.jpg
Picture of stock vader.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_02.jpg
Another picture of stock vader.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_03.jpg
Remove the end cap and battery pack.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_04.jpg
Remove the 2 flat head screws and the 2 thumb screws shown by the arrows.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_05.jpg
Remove the phillips head screw shown by the arrow.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_06.jpg
Remove the small pin shown by the arrow. (this can be hard to do without damaging pin).
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_07.jpg
You can now remove the large pin shown by the arrow.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_08.jpg
The two side covers as shown by the arrow can now be removed.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_09.jpg
Remove the two phillips head screws shown by the arrow. (some models may vary in style).
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_10.jpg
Remove the switch cover and then cut the switch wires and push them inside the hole.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_11.jpg
Pry off three plastic wire looking thingys. (these can also be hard to remove without damaging them)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_12.jpg
You can now remove the blade and electronics assembly from the hilt.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_13.jpg
Remove the two pins shown by the arrows using a hammer and a punch.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_14.jpg
Remove the two pins shown by prying them off with a small screwdriver.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_15.jpg
You can now disassemble the assembly. If your model has the quick disconnect setup as shown in this picture then the following electronics will look different.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_16.jpg
Remove the pin as show by the arrow. The easiest way to do this is to take a small nail punch and push the pin all the way through.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_17.jpg
Remove the led strip from the blade and split the housing to expose the wiring. (your wiring will look different if you have the quick disconnect style blade)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_18.jpg
Now wire the LED to the heatsink. Now is when you put on the thermal tape (not shown). It sticks between the LED and heatsink.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_19.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_20.jpg
Blue wire on shock sensor connects to Positive terminal on LED
Purple wire from connector connects to Positive terminal on LED
Gray wire leave alone
Brown,Red,Orange,Yellow,Green, and Blue wire from connector connects to negative terminal of LED
Remember to slide the heatshrink tubing on before you solder!
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_21.jpg
Hook up and test to make sure everything works. Now put the LED assembly to the side for a while.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_22.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_23.jpg
Line up the new holder next to the stock holder as shown by the red line. Simply line up the tops of the two blade holders. Using the back end of the new holder as a guide mark the stock holder as shown by the green line. Cut the stock holder at the marked location.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_24.jpg
From left to right. Remainder of stock blade holder (Save this!), metal blade holder, old blade holder (throw away).
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_25.jpg
Screw the heatsink into the blade holder, along with the optics.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_26.jpg
Take the blade holder and the small section that you just cut. There are three holes on each side of the plastic part. On one side, the holes are not aligned. Line up the large hole on that side with the string of threaded holes on the blade holder. Then take the portion of plastic with the sound board in it and attach it to the blade holder unit. Align it so that the switch wires are opposite the string of threaded holes on the blade holder.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_27.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_28.jpg
Drill a 11/64 hole as shown so that the thumb screw can pass through the hilt. After this smooth out all the holes on the inside of the hilt so the holder will not snag on them.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_29.jpg
Tape the switch wires down, so that they do not snag on the inside of the hilt.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_30.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_31.jpg
Push your new assembly into the hilt and align all the holes. Use the supplied phillips head machine screw to hold the assembly in place. Also, screw in the blade retention screw.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_32.jpg
Pull out the switch wires resolder them to the switch.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_33.jpg
You can now re-install everything in reverse. To reuse the wire looking thingys you will need to grind/file off a portion of them so they will mount flush. The two wires on the left have not been ground, but the one on the right has.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_34.jpg
The completed hilt.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_35.jpg
Looking down inside the emitter.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/vader1/vader_36.jpg
Comparison shot of converted with stock blade (on top) and stock setup with a led or two missing (bottom).